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dangerous doug

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by dangerous doug

  1. Oh my! this mean I don’t have to carry on with my manual shaper conversion?😂
  2. They both have their place. I find the grinder coming out a lot more but as Stephen says, the complex shapes and accessibility can’t really be beaten. Look at it like you have a gas axe but without the bottles. also, rtech let you do monthly payments at 0%. It’s how I got my plasma and It diddnt particularly hurt
  3. Cheers mate, appreciate that. I will let you know beginning of next week👍
  4. Ah, I diddnt know that. I’m sure I can work something out though also. Tickled it with the grinder and it now fits. Still need to knock the corners off and make it look a bit more presentable the bracket is 20mm thick and the steering arm is 30mmx50. Obviously the arm still needs shaping. And will be secured by 2 m16 bolts. Just trying to decide on weather to drill the tapered hole for the landrover TRE or a straight hole and use a rose joint. Could also use another mog TRE I guess
  5. The minor diameter of the mog shafts is larger than the major diameter of the landrover shafts so there’s plenty of meat there. Getting to the stage where I might just weld them together so I can atleast test😂 you are spot on though, the issue raised was the hardening. I’m not metallurgist but I was under the impression you could somewhat normalise steel and then re harden. an example of re splined and new shafts standard shafts @Soren Frimodts welded shaft which apparently held up well
  6. Yeah it was 1600 plus vat from design and development. Which isn’t that bad for massive custom Shafts but would rather have the existing shafts cut as I know it can and has been done and it’ll also save me a few quid.
  7. I know a guy local to me with a set for sale. Can work out a deal and go half’s if you want?
  8. I’ve not really done anything with them mate. End of March is the big move around so I’ve been concentrating on getting stuff up on dollys or in a space where it won’t be in the way. The “horseshoe” for the steering arm is nearly done though. Just needs a final tickle with the grinder to pretty it up but I’m deliberately not doing it because I’ll get distracted and end up not having time to do the things that need doing……like all the lathe tooling and drill stuff I’ve acquired over the past few moths that’ll all need a storage solution😂 By the end of April (most likely before) there will be a post worthy update though. I have all the material for the caliper brackets, trusses and spring mounts just staring at me. I think I have it all figured out…just the halfshafts that are being problematic as no one can cut splines or if they can, they don’t want to machine down the shafts and re cut splines.
  9. Clearing out the work space. Welded the rear of the mini up and put it on a dolly so it can be moved to the back. defender is getting pulled out and going roughly where the mini is now. I’ve cut a hi-steer mount for the steering arm but I diddnt think that would be worth much of an update.
  10. It’s up and running! I diddnt go down the phase converter route in the end, I called transwave and had a long chat with a man who actually knew what he was talking about and he basically said the only way you can run the m300 to its full range was with a rotary converter as the statics won’t cope with the top speed. I really diddnt want to dump all that cash into it right now so went back to square one and got a new VFD. This time round it’s a Parker drive AC10. Another drive I have a little experience with and they seem to be ok. The trade off has become clear very fast though. The torque isn’t there so I am limited to fairly small cuts. But it’s fine, it works! my YY control cable diddnt arrive until I got to the workshop so the control circuit was all SY cable which got confusing at times with everything being the same 3 colours. Being curious to the next guy incase it’s actually wired to 3 phase again Diddnt really take many photos from here on as I just wanted to play. Did make a new top nut for the tool post so I can go for the 2 leaver set up others do. not sure if this is just a thing you have to do or if something else is off but I had to put a dti on everything I I put in the chuck as the runout was insane. is what it is and dealt with it. Nut is done complete with chamfers(because were civilised people) and I’ll be putting a handle on it tomorrow. Need to work on surface finish. I’m assuming it’s because I’m going a bit slow and using carbide inserts at the moment bot sure if I’m happy with the height, mite take a bit off the top tomorrow. All in all a nice little project. I’ve ordered a little bearing to go under it which I think will make a difference and it’ll protect the nut at the top. And possibly give more clamping force? Little message I left for the next guy at work….thought it may be relevant here too😂
  11. I was under the impression that all ac motors were basically 3 phase motors with a start capacitor between W1 and W2 known as a steinmetz connection (found the correct spelling). It works but you Lose 1/3 of the torque….im not running an industrial work shop here so this isn’t a big deal and I can do it down stream of the motor. This is also what I suspect those DPS boxes are. I have priced this up and it’s going to be about £100 for mid range parts but we shall see what happens as I’m talking to a man about a phase converter now…..but that is basically the above drawing with more of the same in it. im happy to be wrong about the single phase motor though. I havnt really worked on them and have never been in one to take a look, just upstream fault finding to make it work
  12. Did a bit more digging and this is only good for a 230v motor did stumble across this though https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pc-40-3-5hp-phase-converter/
  13. Am aware of the noise from the rotary converters which is why I’m looking at the static ones. this is an alternative https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283812247889?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=jrumxrpurbc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=WZUdkjFXQ3K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY it says it’s digital somehow but by the description I suspect that this is just a capacitor in a fancy box using phase shift
  14. Much like a trailer, vehicle lift, tig welder or lathe…..you’re always popular if you have a 3phase generator😂
  15. 75k workshop is in the middle of nowhere so a lot of work would need to be done
  16. I get what you’re saying now. This lathe is standard DOL with a phase swap controlled by contactors shown in the pic below the VFD can either be run as a little powerstation(really not advisable) or it can control fwd, rev and stop through the internal 24v circuitry pictured here you are spot on for the acceleration ramps, last night I had to draw a very shallow one for my drill VFD to start the lathe but when it got up to speed it was “ok”. decel also took a while as I do t have a resistor bank to dump the current like I said I’m looking at alternatives at the moment. The rotary units seem to be the best for output but the cost of buying and running them is putting me off.
  17. It’s a cheap and fairly simple way of getting 3phase but also has its problem. I don’t use them for speed controls or anything like that it’s just on/off set at a static 50hz
  18. Today diddnt turn out the way I expected and was a bit all over the place. first things first, I took the advice from @vulcan bomber and got a bed stop. This was harder than I thought but I Found a guy with a NOS one local ish but my god the price! another purchase was the quick change tool post. I was going to hold off on this until I took the old one apart to see what I was dealing with and it looked like it was full of mud. I wiped the worst of it off but me being me, once I see it I have to clean it and I diddnt want to put the time and effort into doing so. After trawling the internet and getting all the conflicting info I got a wedge type BXA as I thought it would fit the aesthetics of the machine a bit better. And it fit But as you can see from this photo the stud doesn’t fit. It’s m12 and the stud for the new post is 5/8unf I have a 5/8unf tap so thought about drilling the cross slide out but diddnt really like that idea, could have also spun the 5/8 stud down and tapped it to m12 but diddnt have a working lathe. so left it alone until I could make my mind up this brings us to the VFD…..ooooh that VFD. It’s an alvitar31, I have experience with this drive at work. It is pretty good untill it stops working for no reason. The one I got from eBay is one of those drives. It diddnt matter what I did I couldn’t get an output, even wired in my diagnostic pad and couldn’t get it to jog manually so that’s going back. The little Chinese one however, with a few setting changes worked! Giving me a functioning lathe(sort of) so I turned that down, put a die in the wrench and held it against the stud with the tail stock and it came out pretty good for the first time ever operating this thing. Just need to set it back up and cut a little away behind the thread for clearance but I don’t have a sutable tool yet. The bed stop was really handy for this Viola so giving up on this inverter lark makes me look at other ways of running the machine. There are diy plans for rotary converters….but that’s more work. There are these magic little boxes that I’m pretty sure are just stinemeg(not sure how it’s spelled) connections using phase shifting….basically just a capacitor between 2 phases. Or I could get a static converter. So guess what I’ll be researching for a while😂
  19. Yes, I am. Any other time it would be more of a problem for you as you’re a lot taller but after several back injuries I can’t stay still for too long without it hurting and I can see standing hunched over will be an issue. My work bench is the same, it’s a few inches higher than “standard” and it makes a massive difference for me….everyone else hates it though 😂 big boy isn’t it. Havnt really had a good look at it but it looks like it’s been violated with a grinder at some point, unless some come in an odd shape.
  20. So it’s in and it’s on the floor. It’s not in its final position though. I could use violence, push, pull and bar it in to place but there is an easier way. I was on my own today so moving it around was double hard and I’m Sure I took more photos today but apparently not. in its temporary home dug out the tooling I got with it from the swarf tray, all different sizes but gives me an idea of what to get in future switch cabinet isn’t big enough to house the VFD so I’m going to have to think of something else. I could remote mount it but I would rather keep it all together. I’m not going to be using the lamp so I could pick up off of the bolt holes that it mounts to and set it above the gearbox wiring looks very simple. I have to look at the drawing but I can potentially just pick up the A1 feeds of the contactors to get my fwd/rev/start and stop and not mess with the existing panel too much after doing this to get it off the pallet and @elbekko posting video of a similar thing, decided the first project for this thing will be making riser feet. I have the monster pin from the skip which will be perfect for this. It’s 4” od and 20” long so I’ll be able to get 4 nice chunks out of it. The reasoning for this is later in the year I’ll be having a big move around and clear out in the workshop. I’ll be wanting to move this thing again and at the moment I can only lift it length ways with the crane. If I can rase it up a bit so I can get the legs of the crane under it it’ll make my job 100 times easier and I’ll be able to get it up agains the wall like I wanted…..may also save my back a bit while operating it too
  21. Halfords is a solid choice for stuff like that. I’ve used the cheaper ones before and they’re normally bigger, thicker and don’t fit a lot of the time.
  22. That is a very good shout. I raided the skips at work the other day and cleared some space for them to throw more important rubbish away perks of working in a crane yard.
  23. It certainly does have the adjustable feet. That was a pre requisite as the floor is 100% not level😂 the reasoning behind the frame is because the base doesnt span the length of the lathe, there is a stop/foot brake bar that is pre bent. I assume that was done by someone jacking it up for the pallet
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