jwriyadh

Cold pressure testing: Disconnect one of the heater pipes, block one of the openings. Now bodge a tubeless tyre valve into the other opening. Pressurise from a pump or compressor or spare tyre to about 18 psi. Rad cap should release pressure to 15 psi. Watch the system for water leaking and check system pressure with a tyre pressure gauge. Simples. jw

For the 24 volt ignition system: Disconnect the 24 volt feed to the dropper/interference suppression box. Open the box, you will find a wire in and a wire out, connected to either end of a resistor, move one wire and connect to the other end of the resistor so that both wirres are under the same terminal. Close box. Job done, supply box with 12 volts. The above worked fine for twelve years, no hiccups and allowed me to retain the screened dizzy and plugs/leads. The screened items do afford a higher level of water protection. 24 volt starter, needs replacing with 12 volt version. If you really want to retain the 90 amp alternator the existing control system can be disconnected and replaced by a 12 volt external regulator. This can be easily hidden in one of the existing control boxes. jw

Streaky, read, learn and understand that write-up from Steve's site. However the only way you will get the job done to your satsfaction is to be stood next to the fitter as he does the job. Then you can verify that all the setup is correct. If you're not present you know as well as I do that all checks will be a figment of imagination. jw

Follow the EFi loom down from the ECU plug for 4-8 inches, you should find a blue two pin plug and socket taped into the loom. This is the tune resistor and will probably be white, a value of 3900 ohms, it needs replacing with a green tune resistor which has a value of 470 ohms. The green tune resistor instructs the ECU to ignore the lambda signals and run in the open loop mode. jw

The motor should be wired direct to the inverter. Use the inverter switches to start and stop. Now get a grownup to read the manual and explain how to drive it. All the start, stop and protection functions of the original motor starter switch are built into the inverter. The motor protection function may need adjustment, hence the need for a grownup. jw

If Outdoor Ed is wandering Lincolnshire looking for Newark then he needs all the help he can get. jw

The only ground anchor I have used is the PullPal, this worked fine in sand, just give it enough length of pull to allow it to burrow down far enough to reach compacted sand. The alternative is to carry one or two winch extension straps to allow placement well away from the soft sand area. Please dont use winches and ground anchors to build false confidence into people taking a single heavily laden vehicle into an area where common sense would dictate they should not be. jwriyadh

Find the "Tune resistor" , usually located about 6-8 inches down the loom from the ECU plug, taped into the loom. It's a blue two pin connector, disconnect the white resistor assembly and replace with a green one. If you don't want to buy the green tune resistor assembly then just cut the white assembly off and replace with a 470 ohm resistor. jw

From your description the alternator is destroyed. Since you don't seem to be familiar with the elctrical system your best option is to find a local auto electrician and get him to replace it. During the replacement he may find the original cause of the failure. Your fuel injection system will not work properly while the alternator is not charging. Check your engine performance after the alternator is fixed. jw

The working fuel pressure, 36psi, decays while the engine is not running. There will be minute leakages through the non-return valve in the fuel pump and through the fuel pressure regulator. The purpose of the fuel pump priming pulse at ignition switch-on is restore the fuel pressure prior to engine starting. This decay is noted in the LR hotwire system tests and limits are mentioned. Check the fuel pressure whilst running the engine and then note the pressure decay after switch-off. Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, dripping injectors or poor quality sections of fuel hose can cause rapid decay. If the vehicle is stood for long periods it is not uncommon for rapid pressure decay to occur in the fuel pump non-return valve, in my case this cured itself when the vehicle was used regularly. jw

For a Disco 1(none US market) the OBD socket will only allow access to the 10AS Alarm ECU. The socket, a 16 pin item, is at the bottom edge of the dash panel. The engine management system, called hotwire, uses a 14CUX ECU and is not OBD compliant. The socket is behind the panel on the outside of the RHS footwell. Diagnostic access can be achieved by units such as Rovacom or Autologic. There may be other economic systems that claim compatibility but these two do work. Rovacom will also access the 10AS Alarm ECU. jw

My Disco 1 purchased in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia required changes to speedo (from kph to mph), headlights ( dip left instead of dip right) and fitment of catalysts. None of them great problems. However, the DVLA require a Certificate of Conformity in order to register the vehicle, Land Rover will not supply a certificate since the vehicle was not supplied within the European Market. They do not require that certificate for a vehicle over ten years old, that happened today Check with Land Rover on the availability of the certificate for the future, alternatives are over ten years old or SVA. jw

Start with good recovery points, then start improving your driving technique. You will find that with plenty of practise that the Discovery needs very little in the way of modifications or upgrades. The less you have to add the less weight you carry and as Streaky says above vehicle weight is important. jw

There is plenty of space to relocate the battery to a point in front of the passenger side of the bulkhead. I think there is often a toolbox or similar there. I made up a small plate to seat the battery on, removed a small slice from the wing top and it fitted fine. The battery was a maintenance free type similar in size to an 069 and had 800 CCA, more than sufficient for a diseasel. jw

Nige, I don't see any reference to setting the steering box to the middle of travel, and I do see reference to re-setting the steering wheel. I usually centre the steering by counting turns for lock to lock then moving half the number of turns from one lock. If the steering wheel is not correct then check the steering joints and if correct then refit the steering wheel for straightahead. Then put the string around all four wheels and tie off. Then adjust N/S wheel to correct toe-in/out by altering the drag link. Now adjust O/S wheel by altering the track bar. jw