suvvey

Yup seems to of been an air issue. New slave in and several attempts at bleeding and it is almost spot on. Just the occasional light crunch when selecting a gear from a stand still. I will give it a couple more days then have another go if it hasn't sorted itself out. Then maybe look at pedal adjustment or I guess the master cylinder if I run out of other alternatives.

Hi all. Been a long while since I last visited Just looking for some confirmation to help cheer me up. Finished changing the clutch in my 200tdi last night (already took a day longer than it should of) after the release lever failed. Before putting the floor back in I gave it a go and was pleasantly surprised at who much quieter it was at idle with and without the clutch pedal down. But when I tried to change gear it wouldn't let me and just crunched. When it originally failed I was crawling around underneath on the side of the road in the rain so accidentally got carried away and pushed the pedal too far when the slave was out to check this wasn't the issue. Predictably it popped the piston out so I carefully put back but assumed it would need bleeding in the short term if not replacing as they are so cheap. But when I tried to bleed it the nipple was full of crud and even with the nipple fully out it is obviously still blocked inside. Will be trying to source a new one locally today but just wanted someone else to tell me that the crunchy lack of gear change is due to air in the system and not me screwing up the clutch assembly....... Please? Please attach your confirmation and much needed motivational pep talk below

I am that crossmemberless mate . Thanks for the help guys. It seems as though I will be making a replacement myself. I'm no expert welder but I can just about manage to melt metal together so what the hell, it doesn't have to be pretty. It would of been nice to be able to cut it out and weld a ready made section in but I have already come to realise that my Landy only likes to rot the 0.5% of parts that can't be bought straight off the shelf

Not a half shaft then? Could throw you across the road but low range wouldn't help unless you were locking the centre diff. If centre diff was stuck in the locked position it may explain the earlier noises and the shalft being broken.

What is the largest size tyre that you can fit to a standard set up 90? I've tried searching for it as I'm sure it must be covered many times over but this was the closest matching thread I could find I used to run my last 4x4 on 33x12.5s Kumho MT's which seemed almost unstoppable but I believe I can't quite get that large on the Defender without lifting or using spacers. I have been told that 235/85 R16's are about the limit but was hoping I could use 265/75's for the extra width B)

Two tanks I can barely afford to fill the one nowadays Mind you, seeing as I am looking into fitting a SVO conversion another tank hidden away underneath may be a better option than the usual plastic tank in the rear.....

I am soon to be the proud owner of '97 300tdi defender 90 B) The only problem rust is as you'd expect on the rear crossmember but does not seem to of spread to the chassis rails so will be at some time fitting a new one. A friend of mine has a Td5 crossmember that he was going to fit to his 300Tdi but decided to go the whole hog and fit a new galv chassis. As it is now in his way he has offered it to me cheap but I was wondering if there were any problems with allignment to the existing chassis or tub? I'm assuming they are meant to be interchangable but seeing as most pattern crossmembers are often badly alligned I wondered if fitting a Td5 one is just asking for trouble

Is it this one? http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n262/wh...ent=wales02.flv Thats some scary stuff