200tdimorgan

Afternoon I've been trying to sort out an issue with the gearbox on my 04 auto disco. The m and s lights constantly flash, with the gearbox constantly in limp mode. Instantly thought the xyz switch was at fault, fitted a tested used one, no different, tested a second known working switch, no different. Plugged into various diagnostics (Snap on, hawkeye, black box) and none of them have any communication from the switch. I tried a used but working when removed EAT and plugged diagnostics back in, still no communication with the switch. Hoped this just meant a broken wire in the loom, however after a thorough test of all wires from switch to EAT, none of them were broken. All I can say from this test is that the only wire that came back live from the switch to the plugs under the centre console was the inhibitor wire when the selector was in P or N Does anyone know which of the other wires should be live when each gear is selected I have read through RAVE but it only talks about the W, X, Y and Z contacts, not which gear selection Trying everything before taking to Landrover to plug in T4 to see if that will shed any more light on the problem cheers

Yeh I've seen in rave that tool but looking at many many threads about replacing it it seemed it wasn't deemed necessary if someone sat in the vehicle and shouted when the correct light came on for the correct gear. And also the starting inhibitor doing its job as in only starting in p or n. Just the way no indication led on the console and no letter on the dash is illuminated that makes me wonder if the fault is elsewhere. Cheers

I don't think I have. I just presumed that as it allows it to start in the correct position and when reverse is selected it puts the reverse light on. How does one calibrate it. Cheers

Evening folk, bit of advice required. Bought an 04 es premium auto, with known a couple of faults, hopefully being smallish and repairable but maybe doubting that now. The issue I'm having problems with is the xyz switch. The m and s lights are flashing constantly from when the ignition is one, and holding the box in 3rd gear. I have fitted a switch that was said to be second hand but checked to be working (still could be faulty but trying to iron out other possibilities). This hasn't changed anything. The thing that gets me is that there is no indication led to say which gear is selected on the console, and know letter on the dash. Reading posts the led usually flashes next to the selected gear when there is a fault. The other thing I have noticed is two wires that aren't connected to anything. They come from the xyz switch loom, where it splits from one big loom to xyz, gearbox connection and then these two wires. They are green black and black. Both with female spade connections. Can't see any.obvious places to plug into but can't see top of box. Any advice would be great Cheers

I've got 110 front calipers on the back of my 90 with salsibury axle and it just locks up with any heavy braking. It's great when towing as all the weights at the back then so it stops. Also handy for the effects of a handbrake turn, slam on and your facing the other way

Yeh, spoken to Mr ashcroft this evening, all the 3.9 bits will bolt to 4.6 and jobs a gud n. Just have to wait till weekend to do it now. Thanks for the replies

i have the complete 3.9 that i took the hp22 off, so i have all those parts, can the flywheel and spacer be used from that engine. Wasnt sure if the flywheel would fit (same pcd? no tabs for sensor (although not using this as it will have a megasquirt tooth wheel on the front)) if i can use that spacer and flywheel, how does the spacer come off as i cant see any fixing method but it doesnt seem to want to come off. cheers

When you say the bits from the 4.0 do you mean the flywheel aswell? Any one got one lying around before i start ringing the breakers. Cheers

Good evening people. After some advice, building a ccv and trying to fit gearbox to engine. I have a 4.6 and trying to fit the hp22 to the back of it. Using the medium sized torque converter but it is too far inside the bellhousing, which means it won't mate up to the flex plate. I don't know too much about these as in what fit what's, but I'm sure this has been done before I just cant find any information about it. Anyone know what I'm missing or what I need. Cheers

Evening all. After some advice. I am taking a p38 in bits to salvage the engine and chassis and running gear. Am I right in thinking the easiest way will be to just lift the body off whole. Are there any things I should look out for, complications etc. Cheers in advance

cheers for the replies, even more confused now haha i understand the HF will be an issue, so whats an EMC? The driver in the link, does this not require a micro controller, simply plug into laptop and send programme to it? and can the programme be written using the arduino interface (because there are lots of tutorials for this so when i plug it in i will be able to see how it works) Also, whats a position sensor, and how would i make one. Basically, i have no idea about these things and am quite lost. cheers again folk

Evening all I am need of assistance and have been advised some members on here will love to help with this Basically, I have built an automated orbital pipe welder, which consists of two halves of a gear that clamp around a pipe for a motor to then drive around. As the picture shows, their Is a bracket that holds the bearings on both side of the clamp so that the motor doesn't fall off. On that bracket, a Tig torch will be clamped so that as the motor turns around the pipe, the torch goes with it. The welding part I can sort out, however I haven't much idea about the stepper motor and how to run it. I was told that would be the best motor to get as it has plenty of torque and easily controlled for a smooth operation. The motor is a nema 23. The problem is, I don't know what I need to be able to programme it to get it turning. idealy, I would like a programmed chip in a circuit board, that will take power from a (PSU I think, 36V voltage reducer from mains) and then control the motor by a driver. I have downloaded arduino as a mate told me that would be best, and thought I need one of their boards to then run the driver (which I think is a cw5045 from cnc4you, where I got the motor). however, I don't want to buy anything yet because I don't know if these are the right things for certain, or if there is a cheaper alternative. the reason I want it to run from a chip and not simply on and off using the laptop is because I want to be able to gradually increase the speed of the motor and then slow it down gradually when the weld is completed. I would also like the chip to be able to send a trigger voltage to the welder and the wire feed motor to turn these on when needed, i.e welder on, wait, motor set off, wire on, motor complete pass, wire off, welder off, motor slow down to stop. has anyone written programmes for steppers etc, if so, what do I need and where would I start cheers

well it is a brand new one so i shouldnt think so. i may be able to try the old one if i still have it somewhere. could it be a chafed wire on the way from the flasher unit to the indicator stalk or the hazard switch somewhare?

hi everyone, in need of some advice my flasher unit on my 91 defender went the other day so i have put a new one in, but now when the engine is running it constantly ticks, but the indicators don't flash. i have read someone else had this fault and it was a faulty hazard switch, so i went through the list of ways to test it on Luke's post, but it doesnt seem as though the switch is at fault. when i connect the permanent live to the "supply to flasher", the relay starts ticking fast even though there isnt a feed connecting a supply to the indicators. if i use the indicator stalk then the indicators then work as normal but as soon as i knock them off the relay continues ticking fast. just wondering if anyone has had the problem or knows of how to sort it, where the fault may be cheers