AMB

I second Captain Tolly's creeping crack cure for difficult to find leaks. Beware - it finds it's way through everything, so cover anywhere that staining might matter. You may also need 2 or 3 applications. On mine gutter cracks proved to be one of the main culprits.

Spot on. Batteries are key here, as is the necessary supporting infrastructure. I did some research after a friend asked me about electric vehicles. Depreciation seems very heavy which makes them a superficially attractive secondhand buy - if the short range and comparatively long charging times are acceptable. I haven't seen published specs on automotive lithium batteries, but industrial are rated at something like 1000 charge discharge cycles before significant degradation in capacity occurs. Replacement batteries cost an arm and a leg and I'm suspicious that, as it becomes more common, disposal/recycling costs will bevome a large factor. I suspect that car manufacturers may deliberately include charge limiters such that the "full" capacity of the battery is not utilised. That should extend the apparent life of the battery and was probably what Tesla do which enabled them to extend the range of their cars with a simple over the air software fix during the Florida storm evacuation a few months back.

For what my inexperienced opinion is worth, I agree that it will probably be fine. A light pitting may even improve issues. Many years ago, it was practice amongst some engine tuners to leave newly machined parts outside to rust, before lightly rubbing down and fitting. The theory ran that rusting would remove any rough edges/spikes because they were likely to rust first. The remaining light pitting would tend to retain oil far better than a smoother surface and thus reduce wear. On the advice of an experienced tuner, I tried it on my first bike (a D7 Bantam) and a couple of later bikes. Have no idea whether it extended life, but certainly no related issues whilst I owned them

A second recommendation for Comma HyperClean

If you are into research try using Google reverse image search on advertising photos. Will often show previous adverts at higher cost and how long it's been on the market.

It'll almost certainly be the dim dip resistor

Would recommend that you add secondary door switches in parallel with the factory fitted switches. Could foil another trick that the thieves use.

Be careful re US purchase - some airlines can reject Li (and other) batteries in luggage.

Zapping can work, but generally only on single NiCd cells. I've used it as a short term measure but you have to limit the amount of power that you use. Loss of capacity can sometimes be restored on NiCds (and lead acid) using a pulsed charging conditioner. You are generally stuck with Lithium batteries as they tend to be protected with "smart" charging technology. Once they go better to either replace or re-cell the casing. Like HoSS I've been using Ryobi and been happy with the performance.

I used the Range Rover cap with one of the many published custom designs. Just modified the design so that it didn't alarm on bumps. Didn't fancy drilling into the expansion tank to insert the screws.

I know exactly how you feel and, like Simon, hope that you get lucky. My 110 was stolen in January and never recovered. Police did next to nothing. I got over 25000 shares on Facebook alone but only one report of a sighting - a taxi driver had spotted it driving erratically a few minutes after it had been taken. Despite the area being populated with ANPR cameras it was not picked up. I personally contacted every business with CCTV along the probable route but couldn't catch the reg on the accompanying car. Mine was only one of half a dozen stolen in the area within a few weeks. When I reported it, the police seemed more interested in my age and ethnicity than in actively pursuing the theft and advised me that, if recovered, I would be charged for all forensic costs, recovery and associated storage. Those costs probably wouldn't be covered by insurance. One of the local PCSO's took a personal interest, but could't do much except sympathise. Like you I decided not to replace with another Land Rover, just to put the work in then get it stolen again.

Agree - check non-return valve over front passenger door. On mine the valve body had split.

But not being able to tax up until May 2012 without an MoT since April 2007.

True, but if a vehicle had been SORN'ed it would show as such on the DVLA website, not as untaxed for 5 years.

Rather odd. MoT expired April 2007, yet tax was due from May 2012. Valid current insurance and MoT are required in order to tax a vehicle, so how was the vehicle taxed when it apparently hadn’t had an MoT for at least 4 years?