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MikeD

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  1. I have a spearate thread with a little more info on this https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/112833-range-rover-classic-39-auto-gearbox-grinding-in-neutral-and-park-but-ok-in-reverse-or-drive/ It came from a known working car and gearbox and engine weren't separated in the transfer
  2. correct 3.9 auto, flex drive to transducer, wire from transducer to speedo
  3. This is a second fault (gearbox grating) on a vehicle that has been standing for a fair time. Speedo was working and, other than the wiring from the transducer to the clocks, nothing else has changed The odometer is working and as it is an electronic head I assume this makes it most likely to be the head unit itself Has anyone experienced this and found a fixable fault?
  4. Putting a vehicle back on the road that has had an engine, gearbox and transfer box transplant from a known donor It has been working fine right up until the point where it is due to go back on the road and was giving it a final test before the mot and the gearbox has started grinding when in neutral or park but is weirdly ok in reverse or drive. As in the noise goes away and it moves normally It is quite some time since the donor bits were used but they were working fine before the transplant and have worked ok for just moving around the workshop since the engine was wired up All oils have been changed and the gearbox oil filter was changed so it has been mucked about with but like I said it has been working ok since that Any suggestions?
  5. RTC5827 is the one, thank you very much @western
  6. That looks very much like the failed pump thank you, does the parts book show a part number for the seal as well please? I was trhinking of the P38 pump as a possible "kludge" if I couldn't get an original replacement. As it might either fit the hole in the current bottle or i could perhaps enlarge the hole to suit
  7. meant to say the washer sticks straight out from the washer bottle and is self supporting
  8. I need a replacement for an under wing washer pump curently fitted to a 1989 90 and cannot find what I am looking for. I found GWW1194 on Rimmers site which has a 100% matching picture but when I ordered the part I got something that was a washer pump but different fixing and wouldn't work with my washer bottle This is the picture from Rimmers The end of the pump is actually threaded and the picture shows it compltete with the seal it screws into which I thought would be brilliant as the existing seal is old and has a split in it anyway The hole in the bottle is 19.4mm any suggestions? I am wondering whether DMC100550 or any other land rover pump might fit this sized hole?
  9. Correct, Pretty sure I threw it as my freezer experiment suggested it didn't work I was getting rid of the accumulated tat making space for more tat 😀, sorry!
  10. One problem with adding after market seats over the battery box on a defender is retaining access This is my solution in case it inspires other people. I didn't need the passenger seat adjustable for front/back position so measured where I wanted it from the drivers seat 6mm x 50mm flat to form the seat mounts and 25mm x 6mm angle (carefully chosen from the pile of things I already have) 4 x stainless detent pins in double shear bet the rings rattle but easy enough to deal with if they do. Should also wire the pins so I don't lose them if I need to get at the battery when out and about
  11. That is the sort of wiring job you don't want to cover up, mine are best hidden in all the dark places, fortunately there are plenty of dark places I presume the christmas tree symbol on pin 56 is intended to be a permanent 12v feed From reading the spec on that linked page it isn't particularly clear whether you need to momentary connect the +12v to 30 and have a permanent earth on S or have a permanent 12v on 30 and momentary earth on S I would try per your diagram and see if it works you should be able to use it the way you are doing but the original design intention would have been to have dip beam on say 56a and high beam on 56b
  12. not sure of the etiquette in replying to your own thread but..... I found some really good channel for this job and thought I would share https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLOCKED-LINED-RUBBER-SLIDING-WINDOW-CHANNEL-UPTO-4-6MM-GLASS/224144606416 it takes a little practice to fit and I found a small pair of blunt nosed pliers (jewellers size) was best another job off the list only 5,783 to go 😀
  13. I have been searching but am unable to find anyone that sells this particular type of channel insert for sliding side windows. It basically looks to be the webbing material that you used to get on rucksack straps (if you are old enough) it measures around 1.8mm thick and about 21mm wide. It obviously gets its shape from the aluminium channel (10mm wide by 10mm high) it is just pushed in and goes round the rounded corners nicely I might be able to use the smallest woolies channel type but if I can get this original type I would prefer to do so I did try some of the land rover felt but that is too thick to get the 4.9mm window glass in
  14. If you need more clearance on those bolts look up "button allen key bolt" they can be had in 10.9 for strength
  15. more ideas take a look at dzus and/or camloc fasteners. Typically used for holding aircraft panels. I tried looking at their tensile strengths but couldn't decide whether they were strong enough. they make versions that take coins and allen keys alternatively use rivnuts and bolts, I have previously welded repair washers on edge to the head of a high tensile bolt to make them quick to remove without tools as long as you don't use vastly over length bolts then 4 bolts aren't too difficult to remove with a quarter inch socket set I have also thought about having flanges fitted to the seat and runners and a stainless rod push through holes in both to make it even easier to remove a seat although that adds a bit to the height needed if the back mountings, where you have the height available, were made as push in fit then you could reduce it to 2 bolts at the front of the seat
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