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About LiftedDisco

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  1. I think it's a lovely bit of kit and would certainly prefer it to the D5
  2. We specify desiccant dehumidifiers for a variety of clients and uses but these are typically used in virtually airtight environments - they are efficient to run and, as stated above, work by regenerating the rotor using a heater element. As such, you need recycled air passing over the dehumidification rotor and also an extract to fresh air which will dump the wet output air - there is a slight 'heating' benefit in that the incoming (dry) air is heated to around 3 deg C above the ambient temperature as it passes through the regeneration process. Keeping RH below 45% will virtually eliminate the risk of rust but, if you have leather upholstery or similar, may also be too dry for other components.
  3. Good shout on Blashford Snell, but my choice would be Spen King... Whether he had any concept of the impact that the RRC would have on the business almost overnight, how it would change and/or create a whole new sector and the longer term impact it would have on the whole Land Rover product line.
  4. Oooooooooh - proper job... I wish I could weld like that!
  5. Try as they have all sorts of options... Hope this helps!
  6. Here's hoping that someone can help me... I am currently building a Tornado on a chassis and running gear from a 92 RRC (trust me - it was truly minging and not worthy of saving... I've done every bush, bearing and other such component to bring it back to life, the body was rotten and the previous owner had used it as a dog kennel / skip...) Anyway, my question relates to the booster unit and pressure orb that serves the power brakes - on the original vehicle this is located on the O/S inner wing at roughly the same height as the brake pedal unit. Does it need to be at a certain height (to bleed it or for effective operation) or can I relocate it to a slightly tucked away position? I appreciate that it will need a new brake pipe to connect, but as I'm doing new lines throughout, this isn't a problem. Any thoughts?
  7. As I will be working on a long-stood diesel in due course, can I ask why the 'staggered start' process?
  8. Deatons Metal Centre in Chesterfield - they tend to have various Land Rovers in most of the time and have normally been happy for you to wander around...
  9. Other than the thought of fitting the rear seats, do you have any modifications? If standard(ish), I would suggest the NFU but call your local office and NOT their central call centre - they may not always be the cheapest but they are incredibly efficient. If you have modifications, try Academy Insurance or speak to Leena Marsh at Heritage Insurance - both have specialist schemes for modified vehicles.
  10. Wot he said... I had issues with the ABS on my old D1 and contemplated removing it - spoke to our local MOT chap who advised that the basic spec of the vehicle would detaile the ABS which would mean it needs to be operational for the test. There's a similar argument about the removal of anti-roll bars if they were factory fitted...
  11. Depends on your model year. Some have the motors installed but the connectors are left disconnected and filled with Tiger Seal (or similar) and the glas is bonded into the runners. Later models apparently don't have the motors installed. From memory, the parts are around £80 per side to get the necessary parts to get the glass working. TBH, I've never worried - have run Commercials for many years with non-functioning windows and have simply removed the black plastic for safety when pulling out of oblique junctions...
  12. The should be fine on the rims. 225/70/R16's will be just over 5% bigger in diameter (28.4" as opposed to 27") so your gearing and speedo will be slightly adrift...
  13. I don't think that Land Rover's response was out of hand... They left the options open to pick up some of the tab at a later date but I do agree that the failure to say 'sorry' at any stage is slightly poor... I'm having a slight issue with Mini at the moment - we have a 2.0l Mini Cooper SD at the moment with turbo lag / hesitation and it's been in the dealer more than on our drive over the last 10 weeks or so. We finally got it back on Friday morning, apparently 'fixed' for the engine management light to come on later that same day.. Needless to say, it was back in yesterday morning and I'm up for a 'firm but fair' discussion tomorrow morning which may well revolve around them buying the car back off me... Grrrrr!
  14. You could try contacting Dave Billings at Tornado Motorsport... He has a one piece fibreglass section that covers the gearbox and transfer case which might work for you. Hope this helps!
  15. Take a look around for something called Dibond - it's typically 2mm thick and is a composite panel of plastic core sanwiched between two layers of aluminuim facing. You should be able to create a cardboard template, then use this to mark and cut the Dibond, then mastic the resulting panel into place with RTV sealant.