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Found 11 results

  1. After significant time away from playing with megasquirt (it's all been working fine, thanks to all on here, no pinking popping or vac advance problems) I've now purchased a 3.5 v8 with a sprintex supercharger currently fitted with a flapper system. The engine is a known runner, and cam from and overfinch fettled RRC. Various internal components are unknown parts, it was built by a known drag race engine builder and I am currently looking into the history to find what has been done. Aside from my wifes disappointment with me for grinning like a school boy when I told her, how much difference will there be in the fuel and ignition maps when I have the squirt fitted? Are there any additional componentry to fit? Will the standard hotwire injectors and EFI pump support the fueling requirements? Hoping to fit over the summer trialling season break but want to be as prepared as possible before hand to avoid too much head scratching.
  2. Thought I'd add my success story here, albeit not an LR4x4 but has the benefit of this forum - thanks to Nigel and the wealth of information from many contributors on this forum. I've got an Opel Manta (GT/E) coupe that was built by a previous owner as a rally car for tarmac stage rallying, with a Rover V8 engine fitted into it. The donor for that engine would have been the Rover SD1 3500, single plenum 'flapper' Lucas injection system, distributor, etc. Although it worked fairly well, the engine was exhibiting common failings that arise with that factory setup over time: * Poor idle control, especially hot or when electric fan kicks in * Flat spots, worst when using wide-open throttle from low revs; engine would bog down a lot before chucking the car up the road * Misfiring some of the time; hard to pin down the cause even when new coil, plugs and other parts changed Rather than continuing to replace various parts, chasing common problems, I went for the recommendation of fitting MegaSquirt engine management. I bought a full kit of parts from HFH at http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/ms_3-5_etc.php, including new top-end parts to replace 'flapper' injection components with later 'hotwire' manifold, plenum and parts, as well as trigger wheel, sensor, EDIS-8 and Ford coil packs, and an MS1 ECU pre-loaded with an MSQ map for a standard 3.5 litre RV8 engine. A few differences found along the way where the Rover V8 injection differs slightly between the SD1 saloon and the Range Rover 'Classic' 3.5 v-belt engine but nothing insurmountable. For reference, these differences are: * Injectors; the nose on the bottom of the SD1 injector is of a different size and design to other RV8 injectors - use injectors from the hotwire, or later, setup * Fuel pressure regulator; there are a number of different fuel rails, use whatever seems suitable for your own installation * Crankshaft pulley; there are less parts on the SD1 crankshaft pulley - I do not have power steering so even easier to remove unwanted pulley and fit the trigger wheel * Crank sensor mount; as the crankshaft pulley differs, the bracket provided in the Megasquirt-V8 kit does not put the sensor in line with the trigger wheel - easy enough to space out differently or create a new bracket * Heater matrix feed pipe; on SD1 it is from a pipe at back of the thermostat housing, below the inlet manifold - on the other V8s, from some other pipework (don't yet know where but will probably use manifold heater supply when I eventually plumb in my heater) * Heater matrix return pipe; on SD1 it goes below the inlet manifold, not present on the RR manifold but can be bolted in place with original SD1 pipe and hose Pleased to say that the conversion from flapper to hotwire injection parts was basically easy enough, and that the MegaSquirt setup worked straight off, as per Nigel's instructions. Now, the engine starts reliably whether hot or cold, full throttle is usable from minimal revs, no misfiring evident at all and the engine seems much happier to shoot through the rev range. I still need to do some fine tuning and a before-and-after rolling road power run for comparison purposes to get an idea of how different the power curves, and peaks, may be as a result of the upgrade. I do have a few other things to do for the installation, hence occasional questions to be posted in here. Hope you don't mind the non-LR input :-)
  3. Hi guys, need some help tuning me new 4,6L V8 build: 4.0 block, 4.0 pistons 4.6 crank & conrods all-new bearings (main, big-end, cam) and rings honed cilinders mildly ported heads shimmed rockers for correct preload high-torque cam from V8Tuner I've started it successfully on the map that used to run my 3,5, and have started a new tune I think based on some map downloaded on this forum ... probably Nige's. These are my current settings, after a few cycles of logging / tuning (both offline and "autotune") CurrentTune.msq I believe the values are ... a bit off, to say the least. When starting from the base map, it didn't make any power. I added fuel, and immediately felt more which was good but now, everything tells me to keep adding more fuel .... However, despite the floods of fuel going in, it's not "picking up" well, it all feels a bit dull and well frankly, not quite worth the upgrade from my tired old 3.5. I've also attached my last 3.5 map, which I think ran reasonably well but felt "tired" mechanically (although I'm doubting that right now ...). Squirt, fuel rail, injectors, fuel pump, FP regulator, etc. all remained identical. I've also attached a log. 2014-12-14_17.07.30.msl.pdf (not a pdf obviously) please let me know what you need (I've loads of logs and maps and whatnot) and what are the suggested actions to be taken ... If someone has a map for a 4.6 that would be much appreaciated as well ... thx,
  4. Hello All, I am in the process of rebuilding a MK3 Ford Capri and fitting a 4.6L rover v8, I have read many articles and forums threads on Megasquirting and think I now roughly understand what I need and what I need to do (I know I probably could have posted this on a Megasquirt forum but when it comes to the rover lumps you guys seem really on the ball ). So if you will indulge me I will explain what I was thinking then if you guy could help me find the problems I have probably overlooked that would be great. •The Megasquirt v2.2 mainboard (seems odd not to use v3.0 I know but I have a reason, sort of). •The V2 daughter board CPU (I know many are fond of the V1 CPU but the increased speed and resolution seems too good to pass up). •Ford EDIS and the usual high impedance injectors. •PWM Idle valve. •Launch control would be lovely but its not a deal breaker. I have been involved in hobby electronics for a while and while researching all the mega squirt stuff I found out about the V2.2 main board although considered out dated now it is very simple and I think provides all the features I need. Plus I was able to redesign the PCB and make it about half the size and a quarter of the cost of a retail kit. All comments and criticisms welcome, Thank you in advanced
  5. Intro and a bit about me Im John, 46 and very much single (through choice). Im A time served welder/fabricator/pipe fitter/industrial gas engineeer/dogsbody. Over the years i have had a few rover cars,- 4 v8 3500 SDi one of which a vittesse - which i successfully did an engine rebuild on. Selling to trade up for a SDi Vanden plas. a Rover 216 (family thing) followed by a rover 800. Then came an Isuzu trooper, then a 4.0 V8 lpg P38 Range Rover. This was my first real step into the world of the green oval. Sadly the Rangie looked well, but had far too many electrical problems for me and as such it was too unreliable - but i still miss it. I now own a D2 TD5 as my daily drive, but this is really a weekend thing and i am mainly sat in a lwb merc sprinter van for work. As much of my work is all over the country, i am usually away for a fortnight at a time. This does have an impact on things as i dont have the time to do the jobs that need doing, but the money certainly helps. If i dont do the hours i have plenty of time but then no spare money and the build stops. I also have to plan in advance, hoping that i can remember to order things so they are available for the next fortnight. I am by NO means an expert, more of a novice when it comes to landrovers, but i do read up as much as i can. I know that i have made mistakes doing this build, but things can be altered later. As time is more of an issue, there is a lot of parts bought off the shelf rather than self made. However, if time was no object, then i would have certainly made a lot more parts than buying them. The build came about as a few of my mates had bought a couple of D1's , on has a 90 and another has a few series 3's with two freelanders thrown in for good measures, all decided to start going off roading. I never intended to go and abuse my pride and joy so i decided to get a 90 just for off roading. We went and watched our local off road club http://www.penninelandrover.co.uk/videos.html but i wasnt keen on that type of event. Having trawlled through masses you tube videos, i enjoyed watching the Mud Monster clips and i decided that i was going to build a challenge truck. So the build begins After scouring the internet for ages, i managed to buy this sorry old girl locally for £600. It had been stood for a number of years and as the owner was moving he needed shut of it. We eventually got the engine running, but couldnt get the clutch to work, so we somehow managed to get her onto the trailer using low box, flicking the starter motor on and off and yanking the handbrake as well. After realising that there wasnt enough room in my single garage to work on her, I asked the council if i could extend. After nearly two years i was allowed to put up a 20 x 24ft shed. As this was going dierectly behind the single garage, i had to build the shed around the 90. So how i have somewhere to work. Lots more to follow
  6. First things first, this will be a fairly slow moving project, women, holidays and life seems to absorb my money at the moment! A little while ago i purchased a RRC of RangeyRover on these forums, and i started a small thread in the members section http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78270&hl= Following that, my girlfriend started talking about loads of crazy expensive ideas, so i figured Im probably not going to get another chances anytime soon to build a challenge truck. My initial plans were to build a truck like Chris Abels range rover but with the plan to fit Discovery 2 axles with a homebrew/cheap four link system. I tossed some ideas about and the RRC body really doesnt lend itself to being a competitive challenge truck with the sport at the current level. So off came the RRC body. I decided when your running a v8, you've GOT to have Megasquirt... right? So I built a board Now, Ive got a chassis, axles, engine, and EFI set up. What else do you need? ROLL CAGE! I purchased a roll cage with outriggers (not in photo) from Tornado Motorsport, and what a terribly nice bloke Dave is! Hopefully I shall find time soon to get the cage and out riggers welded up, engine plonked in and axles/suspension set up in the next few weeks. I will be aiming for a 110inch wheelbase, to help fit 40inch rubber in. My ambition is to enter KOV and similar events in 2014. But possibly with a 4.6 or a diesel engine with some cheeky modifications. DirtyDiesel doesnt live to far away from me, so he can expect to have his brains thouroughly picked on engine choice. Axle-wise, The D2 axles wont last too long i dont think. Looking at finding something strong and proven. maybe even Dana...
  7. Well finally this morning after 10 months finally fired up the megasquirted v8 in the 90. Must be one of Nige's slower customers I did fall into the trap of putting the coil feed on a terminal thats not live on cranking, then subsequently on a terminal thats only live when cranking!!!! Got there in the end though. Somewhat disappointed though as the engine ran badly, popping and banging its way along. Gradually improved with temperature but still not right missing and generally beggaring about. Must confess it wasn't good previously on carbs, and the ignition system was mackled by the previous owner so didn't have alot of faith in it. Anyway I don't have a lambda sensor fitted at the moment so thats the next job to see if thats gives an indication but have a horrible feeling there is something more amiss. Local garage compression tested if for me and said it was ok but been told thats normal with rv8's and everything else is kerry packered. So knackered heads or cam? Burns oil so could be leaking oil into the bores from the valve stems, there was carbon in the rocker covers, wouldn't have thought thats enough oil to make it run badly So buy another engine to fit whilst I rebuild the currrent one, or buy an engine and rebuild it prior to fitting, or just recon the heads and fit a new cam, lifters etc..... Any advice or opinions?
  8. Hi, Just took the carbs/Manifold of the V8 and fitted the EFI Manifold - I am now short a pipe connection for the cooling system where the heater matrix joined the rear of the carb manifold. Can anyone give me any advice as to where i Should run this pipe to in the cooling system. My first thought was to put a T piece in the large diameter leg from the bottom of the radiator to the manifold. Cheers Dave
  9. A mate has been running Megajolt for just over a year now, very pleased with it, and a very good increase in economy at the same time, due to being able to run two ignition maps. However, as he had a lovely set of Magnecor HT leads (not my choice I assure you) connected to his Dizzy, I reused these and instead of Generation 1 coil packs, I used the later 'normal' terminal coil pack, which you can connect regular HT ends to with no problems, as long as they have internal grips as well as the normal 'cage' on the end of them. A couple had come loose at some point and the result was completely burnt through terminals on the end of the leads from the arcing -I could have just got Magnecor to repair them, but instead after a PM to Nige, he suggested a mate of his had managed to get 10mm Magnecors through his 'Coil Pack Ignition Lead Ends Kit', so thought it worth a try, especially as I have converted 8mm leads before with no problems.... This will be a 2-part post, as I haven't fitted the terminals yet(!), but for starters lets get the boot on the leads Take one old lead, with a possibly burnt through terminal: Cut the end off with a pair of sharp wire cutters, make sure the end of the outer bit in particular is tidy, otherwise it will snag on the way into the boot: Clean the lead throughoughly, at least the first 6 inches, any dirt will make the lead stick in the boot, and any lube with be wasted. For all cleaning and lube I ignored Nige's advice ( ) and went with some bike lube I had kicking around, GT85, and it worked bloody well: Next job is to find some strong twine, very strong in my case due to the thickness of the HT lead... I found some builders lines (for marking out foundations, block work etc) and seemed to do the job well. Tie this in a knot around the HT lead, make sure you use one which is a 'slip' knot, as this allows the loop to self tighten around the lead when you pull on it. I used a two-half-hitches knot and it worked very nicely. Trim some of the excess off, not too much otherwise the knot may pull through and come undone: Feed the end of the twine through the boot from the narrow end : Now the first tricky bit, feeding the lead into the boot, put a bit of lube in the narrow end of the boot, and on the end of the lead, slip the lead into the end of the boot, making sure the outer silicon bit of the lead goes in nicely, and nothing left outside. Only push it in about 5mm (1/4" for old fogies!) as there's not enough lube to go any further and it will just get jammed. Now it is in this far, squirt LOADS of lube from the wide end of the plug lead, and cover the lead for about 6" with lube at the same time, now, as they say, it is time to start pushing. Keep the loop of twine out of the way for the moment, you don't need it yet. Push the lead in with a twisting motion, making sure you don't ruck up the lead outer, which can cause snagging. At the FIRST sign of progress slowing, stop and re-lube from both ends. Once you have done this you should be able to see the end of the lead from the with end of the boot, or at least be an inch into the boot. Now the tricky bit (hence no photo!), getting the lead round the bend; this is where the twine comes in... lube EVERYTHING again, and start pulling -use a rag around your hand to stop it from cutting into your flesh too much. It will take some force to move, especially with 10mm leads, but will go through in the end, pulling the wide end of the boot to straighten the bend as much as possible really helps. Eventually it will look like this: At this point you can trim and fit the terminals (tomorrow's job, once the crimper arrives) and then push/pull it back through the boot, I can't do this yet, so I'll just show off with a completed set of 8 Couple of other points, if it won't go, or the twine breaks, or the knot comes undone or for some other reason you have to start again, don't despair, as the boots have now had a good stretching the next time will be a piece of cake. Keep metal tools away from it, as you will bugger up the lead outer, or the boot, or both. Using this method and some practice I got it down to about 5 minutes per lead, taking my time, making sure I didn't arse it up Will post tomorrow once I have the terminals fitted up Pete.
  10. Hi All I converted a Thor 4.6 (as found in P38 Range Rover) to high compression (with ported heads) and installed it into a friend's '81 Range Rover. No major issues but the following presented a few challenges: 1) Heater hoses (Jaguar hoses I had lying in the garage offered a solution); 2) Coolant return from inlet manifold to header tank required an additional connection to the header tank; 3) clean air supply ; 4) fuel supply: An external, adjustable fuel pressure regulator is used with a fuel return back to the tank. I installed a submerged fuel pump into the tank - same as what is used in Disco 1 V8 (95 onwards) - but had to use the fuel level sensor connections (already not functioning) to get power into the tank. 5) Fan cowling - Modified a Disco1 cowl. Still, even without a cowl, no overheating is experienced although temp is not as stable as what it is with a proper cowl. Using an external 82degC thermostat (Freelander) and water hoses as per Disco2. I'm using the original Crank Position Sensor, original coil pack and idle valve but engine management is under control of Megasquirt 2, modified for wasted spark to control the coils directly via a forward ignition module I built to keep EMI noise away from MS. An air flow sensor is not needed in this implementation but a real time barometric sensor is imperative to cater for altitude changes. Knock sensors are not being used.
  11. Hi all I'm sure my question must have been asked before and the answer is here somewhere, but I did look and can not find it.... I'm implementing an MS2 on a Thor V8 and I want to use the OEM Crank Position Sensor for my trigger input and 4 coil outputs for wasted spark direct coil control. I know "the 2 missing teeth are at 60 degrees BTDC" but I need to understand more accurately than that exactly where that "60deg point" is. I'm sure you "squirters" will understand what I'm after. Eg: Is it (60BTDC exactly) in the centre of the first hole? Is it in the centre of the 2nd hole (ie exactly halfway between where the two missing teeth would have been)? Is it in the centre of the 3rd hole? Is it where the the first missing tooth would have been? Is it where the 2nd missing tooth would have been? Other? Best regards Philip Lochner South Africa My web site: www.jaguardiy.net