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Found 26 results

  1. Thought I'd add my success story here, albeit not an LR4x4 but has the benefit of this forum - thanks to Nigel and the wealth of information from many contributors on this forum. I've got an Opel Manta (GT/E) coupe that was built by a previous owner as a rally car for tarmac stage rallying, with a Rover V8 engine fitted into it. The donor for that engine would have been the Rover SD1 3500, single plenum 'flapper' Lucas injection system, distributor, etc. Although it worked fairly well, the engine was exhibiting common failings that arise with that factory setup over time: * Poor idle control, especially hot or when electric fan kicks in * Flat spots, worst when using wide-open throttle from low revs; engine would bog down a lot before chucking the car up the road * Misfiring some of the time; hard to pin down the cause even when new coil, plugs and other parts changed Rather than continuing to replace various parts, chasing common problems, I went for the recommendation of fitting MegaSquirt engine management. I bought a full kit of parts from HFH at http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/ms_3-5_etc.php, including new top-end parts to replace 'flapper' injection components with later 'hotwire' manifold, plenum and parts, as well as trigger wheel, sensor, EDIS-8 and Ford coil packs, and an MS1 ECU pre-loaded with an MSQ map for a standard 3.5 litre RV8 engine. A few differences found along the way where the Rover V8 injection differs slightly between the SD1 saloon and the Range Rover 'Classic' 3.5 v-belt engine but nothing insurmountable. For reference, these differences are: * Injectors; the nose on the bottom of the SD1 injector is of a different size and design to other RV8 injectors - use injectors from the hotwire, or later, setup * Fuel pressure regulator; there are a number of different fuel rails, use whatever seems suitable for your own installation * Crankshaft pulley; there are less parts on the SD1 crankshaft pulley - I do not have power steering so even easier to remove unwanted pulley and fit the trigger wheel * Crank sensor mount; as the crankshaft pulley differs, the bracket provided in the Megasquirt-V8 kit does not put the sensor in line with the trigger wheel - easy enough to space out differently or create a new bracket * Heater matrix feed pipe; on SD1 it is from a pipe at back of the thermostat housing, below the inlet manifold - on the other V8s, from some other pipework (don't yet know where but will probably use manifold heater supply when I eventually plumb in my heater) * Heater matrix return pipe; on SD1 it goes below the inlet manifold, not present on the RR manifold but can be bolted in place with original SD1 pipe and hose Pleased to say that the conversion from flapper to hotwire injection parts was basically easy enough, and that the MegaSquirt setup worked straight off, as per Nigel's instructions. Now, the engine starts reliably whether hot or cold, full throttle is usable from minimal revs, no misfiring evident at all and the engine seems much happier to shoot through the rev range. I still need to do some fine tuning and a before-and-after rolling road power run for comparison purposes to get an idea of how different the power curves, and peaks, may be as a result of the upgrade. I do have a few other things to do for the installation, hence occasional questions to be posted in here. Hope you don't mind the non-LR input :-)
  2. Good Morning. I noticed something odd with my Disco 1 this morning on the way in to work and possibly last time it was driven. It seems to be running odd upto about 3000rpm, I want to say it feels likes its not firing on all cylinders but I'm not sure that is what is happening as it doesn't feel rough enough. Get the revs past 3000 and it is as smooth as normal but below that it is almost hesitant and seems a bit down on power and lumpy (but a smooth lumpyness if that makes sense). My drive in this morning was mainly in slow traffic and under 6 miles so not really the ideal conditions but it did certainly feel different to normal. It was no different on petrol or PLG. 500 miles ago I had to replace the valley gasket due to a leak and it had been running fine before that and since until this raised its head. Where should I start investigating? Thanks
  3. I haven't found the info i need between thousand of read pages.. so i just though of posting this here. any help would be greatly aprecciated. so i just got lucky, and a friend was tossing his td5 r380 gearbox, which obviously i wasnt going to let that happen. So i had an old lt77 suffix E which has some synchro problems. Is the input shaft from the lt77 interchangeable with the r380 one? i know the td5 r380 input shaft measures 22mm ish diameter and a bout 350 mm ish long, (measured from the front face of the 4th gear pinion) I have acces to a lathe and can modify the input shaft if needed. What are the exact measures im looking for?? what about the bell housing? could i use the lt77 one?
  4. Anyone know what the fitting/thread is on the end of a hot wire fuel rail. Looks like its a nut and olive on the rail, but not sure what needs to go on the end of the hose. Was thinking of cutting the nut off and just using a hose clip, but would prefer a neater solution Thanks
  5. After a bit of advice regarding viscous fans, I've seen lots of threads saying about the removal of the fans but none about actually re-fitting a new one, well to me anyway. I've absoutley no idea about them, I know how they work in theory, but don't really have any practical experience with them. From what I can gather, they appear to fit on a threaded bar on the end of the water pump? There seems to be various types of (3.5 V8) water pumps, some which allow for fan fitting, others which don't. Unfortunately i'm not around the car at the moment, but if for instance my water pump did not allow for fitting of a fan, I assume the only way to rectify this would be to change the entire water pump? So, assuming what I have got so far is correct, what is the actual part that I require. Is is a case of simply threading something on such as : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Viscous-Fan-1994-Range-Rover-3-9-V8-Automatic-/371587807436?hash=item56845bf8cc:g:oFgAAOSwwpdW-67R And then, job sorted? I assume not, as that seems far to simple! Input very much welcome. Further more, another thread I have running here; http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=97524&page=2 Basically, I have a V8, series rad, and electric fan infront of rad pushing air through.. I can just about squeeze a electric fan behind the rad to pull air though, but I'm also thinking I could maybe get a viscous fan in there and shift a hell of a lot more air!
  6. I have a 1990 v8 3.9 efi. All was fine until I lost cylinder 4 and 6. I took it to a mechanic and the top gasket was blown. Apparently it was due to irregular firing from the distributor. I've had the engine redone and have recently found a new distributor. The problem is that it now does not fire at all. the distributor that was originally in the motor had an amplifier that plugged directly onto the distributor and the new distributor has two wires coming out to a plug that has another two wires coming out. We have plugged the amplifier on to the system, but there is no fire at all. the new dissy is a 35dm8. I don't know what we are missing. for some reason there is no spark from the coil.
  7. Hi All, Was looking for some advice... I recently took a gamble and purchased a cheap 4.6L V8 petrol engine which I believe came from a P38 Rangey. The question is will it go in my 1990 defender 90 and how much modification will be required. I also have no idea about gearboxes etc. My defender currently has a LT77 gearbox with a 200tdi disco engine in but im also concerned about propshaft sizes whether a standard one will fit or not. I basically need an exact list of all the items I need. Another obstacle I have is I have no idea if the engine actually runs or not and as I don't own/work in a garge I am not sure how I can find this out. As you can probably tell im a bit of a novice at this but there is only one way to learn! Any ideas/advice given would be greatly appreciated.
  8. What would be the best choice / supplier to supply Electric Radiator Fan / Fans in a V8 Defender 110 ? Cheers
  9. Hi all I am just in the rebuild stages on my 1984 3.5 v8 range rover classic which I think is a sd1 engine. I seem to have these strange pipes that run down the sides of each cylinder head and screw into the top of the exhaust manifold ports. I think they are something to do with emissions possibly for the American market? However the pipes on my engine are completely shot and I can't seem to find any anywhere. Does anyone know where to get them from? what they are? And can I cap them off at all if I can't get hold of the tubes? Surely someone else has had this dilemma before?! Thanks in advance.
  10. Anybody able to advise me where I can get a rev Counter suitable for a std V8, ideally with a range suited to a Std V8 - so 0 to 6000 RPM I guess, 52mm diameter and wouldnt look out of plsce in a 1989 110 binnacle? thanks
  11. Hi everyone 1st post for me, but have been stalking about on here for snippets of info for years. Thanks to you all I've kept my old landy running for the last 8 years. I have a project under way to swap my 3.5 weber equipped v8 for a 4.6 bosch from a p38, I'm also keen to use the power steering from the p38. Anyone who has done this in the past and has any tips please advise? I'm assuming that the standard exhaust manifolds from the p38 won't fit and that the standard 3.5 will be too small? I'm thinking of fitting a pair of these http://stores.spencerashley.com/rover-v8-diy-421-exhaust-manifold-kit-to-suit-kitcar-hot-rod/ in the 2.5" flavour, and then sticking a td5 exhaust to it? Am also thinking that in order to make the power steering upgrade as painless as possible I'll keep the serp front end and get a mega jolt igition setup. I know that you might well recommend going the full mega squirt package (I'm planning on phoning Nige when i get back from work!) but my problem is the vehicle is registered in France and they are a bit strict on changing things under the bonnet.. So to start with i'll stick with the weber until i can work out how to legally put the efi back on. I am also replacing both foot wells whilst the engine is out, so as i mentioned anyone who has done this and has any input to share please do, Thanks in advance, Sean.
  12. Hi everyone, I was trying to measure the dog nit size but the pulley and mud guard make it impossible for the caliber to reach. Anyone know what size it is?
  13. Hi guys, Can anyone identify the rusty pipework including y-section in the attached photos? For reference the new parts shown are NTC1863 and NTC1864 which are 3.5 EFI non cat pipes. Many thanks
  14. Hi all, Does anyone know which torque converters will fit the 4hp24? do only the 'large' type fit or will the 'medium' one go on? i am fitting a 4hp24 behind my lexus v8 and a large TC won't fit in the lexus bellhousing whereas a smaller one will! Thanks in adavance! Adam
  15. Hi all. I'm currently in the throes of tidying up my new stage 1 V8 and ive come across a couple of issues. Firstly, there's an annoying vibration when I accelerate to 50kph. It feels like the truck is driving on a road made of tiny speed bumps. It stops at 60kph but comes back at 70kph. The prop-shafts are properly greased and gearbox/diffs have good clean oil in. Also makes a funny knocking noise when slowing from approx. 10kph to 0kph. What's likely to be the culprit there? Secondly, my fuel system appears to be a bit of a mish-mash and I would like to return it to standard. I found what looks to be the original facet fuel pump in the under-seat box. What's the best way to check if its junk or still useable? The pump on there now is called a FuelFlo. It looks a bit tinny, and it has a far smaller input/output than the facet. Also has a cheap plastic inline fuel filter on it. I would like to re use the facet if possible. Another thing is the truck is sometimes quite hard to start. It often needs foot to the floor throttle to get it to turn over but once going, runs nicely and seems to pull well.. but ive never had a v8 so could be completely wrong! I filled the dash pots, changed all the spark plugs to NGK BPR6ES and changed leads a couple of days ago but hasn't made much of a difference to starting. I cant help but think that its a fuel issue? The truck will hesitate and stutter if I put my foot down hard whilst driving, then it will take off. Also, Im not sure if my fuel tank is original. Its monstrous, sits rearward of the back axle, and the fuel line coming out is too small to fit the facet pumps input tube. Any info will be greatly appreciated as Im totally new to V8's and I would like to use the truck as my daily driver/work wagon. Josh
  16. Intro and a bit about me Im John, 46 and very much single (through choice). Im A time served welder/fabricator/pipe fitter/industrial gas engineeer/dogsbody. Over the years i have had a few rover cars,- 4 v8 3500 SDi one of which a vittesse - which i successfully did an engine rebuild on. Selling to trade up for a SDi Vanden plas. a Rover 216 (family thing) followed by a rover 800. Then came an Isuzu trooper, then a 4.0 V8 lpg P38 Range Rover. This was my first real step into the world of the green oval. Sadly the Rangie looked well, but had far too many electrical problems for me and as such it was too unreliable - but i still miss it. I now own a D2 TD5 as my daily drive, but this is really a weekend thing and i am mainly sat in a lwb merc sprinter van for work. As much of my work is all over the country, i am usually away for a fortnight at a time. This does have an impact on things as i dont have the time to do the jobs that need doing, but the money certainly helps. If i dont do the hours i have plenty of time but then no spare money and the build stops. I also have to plan in advance, hoping that i can remember to order things so they are available for the next fortnight. I am by NO means an expert, more of a novice when it comes to landrovers, but i do read up as much as i can. I know that i have made mistakes doing this build, but things can be altered later. As time is more of an issue, there is a lot of parts bought off the shelf rather than self made. However, if time was no object, then i would have certainly made a lot more parts than buying them. The build came about as a few of my mates had bought a couple of D1's , on has a 90 and another has a few series 3's with two freelanders thrown in for good measures, all decided to start going off roading. I never intended to go and abuse my pride and joy so i decided to get a 90 just for off roading. We went and watched our local off road club http://www.penninelandrover.co.uk/videos.html but i wasnt keen on that type of event. Having trawlled through masses you tube videos, i enjoyed watching the Mud Monster clips and i decided that i was going to build a challenge truck. So the build begins After scouring the internet for ages, i managed to buy this sorry old girl locally for £600. It had been stood for a number of years and as the owner was moving he needed shut of it. We eventually got the engine running, but couldnt get the clutch to work, so we somehow managed to get her onto the trailer using low box, flicking the starter motor on and off and yanking the handbrake as well. After realising that there wasnt enough room in my single garage to work on her, I asked the council if i could extend. After nearly two years i was allowed to put up a 20 x 24ft shed. As this was going dierectly behind the single garage, i had to build the shed around the 90. So how i have somewhere to work. Lots more to follow
  17. First things first, this will be a fairly slow moving project, women, holidays and life seems to absorb my money at the moment! A little while ago i purchased a RRC of RangeyRover on these forums, and i started a small thread in the members section http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78270&hl= Following that, my girlfriend started talking about loads of crazy expensive ideas, so i figured Im probably not going to get another chances anytime soon to build a challenge truck. My initial plans were to build a truck like Chris Abels range rover but with the plan to fit Discovery 2 axles with a homebrew/cheap four link system. I tossed some ideas about and the RRC body really doesnt lend itself to being a competitive challenge truck with the sport at the current level. So off came the RRC body. I decided when your running a v8, you've GOT to have Megasquirt... right? So I built a board Now, Ive got a chassis, axles, engine, and EFI set up. What else do you need? ROLL CAGE! I purchased a roll cage with outriggers (not in photo) from Tornado Motorsport, and what a terribly nice bloke Dave is! Hopefully I shall find time soon to get the cage and out riggers welded up, engine plonked in and axles/suspension set up in the next few weeks. I will be aiming for a 110inch wheelbase, to help fit 40inch rubber in. My ambition is to enter KOV and similar events in 2014. But possibly with a 4.6 or a diesel engine with some cheeky modifications. DirtyDiesel doesnt live to far away from me, so he can expect to have his brains thouroughly picked on engine choice. Axle-wise, The D2 axles wont last too long i dont think. Looking at finding something strong and proven. maybe even Dana...
  18. the gearbox in my 1995 disco is starting to play up a bit, a few different symptoms all seemed to start around the same time: when i slow to a stop, then pull away again in D, it feels like its not changing down to 1st gear, meaning it pulls away in 2nd until i give it some throttle and it kicks down. if i manually shift to 1st it pulls away fine. if i shift to 1st, and back to D while stationary, it's fine. changing to neutral, then D feels normal. the torque converter used to lock in 4th gear at about 52 mph and unlock at about 47 mph, but now it's started locking at 47, and instantly unlocking again. if i have to maintain that speed i keeps locking and unlocking, causing the car lurch and making nasty bangs in the drive train.anything above 50 is fine, anything below 45 is fine. it seems to change normally between 2nd 3rd and 4th once moving, apart from the TC locking. kick down is working as it should, and the same as it always has done. when cruising at 50 ish and i put my foot right to the floor, it drops to 2nd and takes off like a scalded cat! I've checked the fluid level, it's in the right place on the dipstick, but the fluid is looking a bit dis-coloured, more like brown than the red it used to be. could duff fluid be causing problems? i'm thinking it's time to do an oil and filter change, as I've no idea if its ever been done. can anyone suggest anything else to try?
  19. Hey all. I test drove an ex NZ army stage 1 V8 wagon tonight and im seeking advice on a few things. Vehicle is in good nick overall, no rust other than the drivers side door top which is very rotten, body is nice and straight. Interior is alright but the dash is a mess and hanging/badly attached. Gearbox, clutch are good. Brakes are horribly imbalanced and the pedal is way too firm and locks up drivers side tyres when pressed lightly. Engine is another matter! 3.5V8 twin carb engine, 24V electrics etc all stock. Hasnt been laid up for too long, a few months between drives so im told. Takes HEAPS of cranking to start and using choke liberally it will eventually turn over. Idle is lumpy to the point of stalling, very hesitant to respond to throttle and missing, generally not running nicely but blows no smoke..... Its VERY slow on the road too. My Series 2a with 2.25p would easily beat it anyday so surely that can't be right? Comfortable ride though, and very original army trim/colours. What are your thoughts, is it gonna be another expensive landy adventure or are these just sypmtoms of poor servicing? I really like it though! Im still waiting for series 2a to sell http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/land-rover/auction-538206959.htm
  20. Well finally this morning after 10 months finally fired up the megasquirted v8 in the 90. Must be one of Nige's slower customers I did fall into the trap of putting the coil feed on a terminal thats not live on cranking, then subsequently on a terminal thats only live when cranking!!!! Got there in the end though. Somewhat disappointed though as the engine ran badly, popping and banging its way along. Gradually improved with temperature but still not right missing and generally beggaring about. Must confess it wasn't good previously on carbs, and the ignition system was mackled by the previous owner so didn't have alot of faith in it. Anyway I don't have a lambda sensor fitted at the moment so thats the next job to see if thats gives an indication but have a horrible feeling there is something more amiss. Local garage compression tested if for me and said it was ok but been told thats normal with rv8's and everything else is kerry packered. So knackered heads or cam? Burns oil so could be leaking oil into the bores from the valve stems, there was carbon in the rocker covers, wouldn't have thought thats enough oil to make it run badly So buy another engine to fit whilst I rebuild the currrent one, or buy an engine and rebuild it prior to fitting, or just recon the heads and fit a new cam, lifters etc..... Any advice or opinions?
  21. I am after part numbers for the body/chassis mounted brackets and associated parts for a td5 90 centre and rear exhaust. Its all part of my v8 build, the current exhaust is held on by a horrible mesh of stuff Many Thanks Mark
  22. Hi, I'm new to the forum and I'm currently looking to purchase my first Discovery. Ive seen a 4.0 V8 with 128,000 on the clock. It's in great condition and drives well. Just wondering if theres anything I should look out for. Thanks in Advance.
  23. Ok From the top, Bought a 148K Km 1999 Disco 2 V8. Running fine when I got it, but was given a "spare" MAF with the car. The car has been bought as a Stop Gap for a few months whilst we get established down under. Started running rough, with misfires when cruising at 80 - 100km. This got progressively worse. So... Spent a couple of hours changing leads. Jesus H! What a place to put the coils! The wires fell apart in a couple of cases so i thought I was onto something. Still ran rough. Started it this morning, ran rough as hell and when revved up coated the floor in black soot. Changed the plugs to Bosch, not the forum recommended NGK BPR6ES fired up and ran sweetly, but an extended run saw the misfire still there, but the engine now runs sweetly if you hold the revs high, but misfires still at lower revs 1200-2000. roughish idle still. The black smoke wont have helped the O2 Sensors i'm sure. Not sure which way to jump. I may buy some NGK plugs as reading around everyone swears by them but NGK recommend the PFR5G? I have a Nanocom on order. Is there any way to test the O2 Sensors or the MAF with multimeter or scope, both of which I have access to. I'm aware the when the nanocom comes it will be a good idea to reset the adaptive learning for the fuelling as well as check the fault codes. Ideas all welcome guys as this is frustrating. I bought the rover for fun and reliable transport for a few months.?! Yeah I know Land rover and reliable....
  24. Hi guys, My 110 has a battery drain of about 0.13Amps when standing. I've had a quick poke around, and it still seems to drain despite my best efforts at removing fuses. I've fitted a battery cut of switch which "solves" the problem, but I was hoping I could get some insight from you guys. 1) what should be the maximum battery drain when the ignition is off? (bare in mind I've got a 3.5l V8 with LPG, and no ECU), so I'm thinking just the clock and radio presets should get power? 2) With a plenum LPG system, is it likely to have a fuse elsewhere other than around the main fuse box that I have to search for? 3), Is testing across fuses with a multimeter for voltage drop a reasonable way of telling if there is any current flowing? (even if it should not be), or am I extrapolating my school physics too far? Cheers Guys Mike
  25. Hey has anyone tried WCD105900 - non-cat downpipe for the D2 Thor V8 engine? My down pipe has sheared and the cats are blowing, so the rules as they are here mean that I can replace with a non-cat pipe. Not many places seem to sell it and wondered if anyone had any experience at all?