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Which anti corrosion spray


jason110

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I really like your sacrificial over-coat description and allowing it to develope into a water repelling goo. I have found this to be very effective since dropping a waxed approach. Obviously with oils it stays mobile on the steel surface through capillary action and a re-coat simply energises that process as you lower the viscosity again. Getting the Chassis Wand into all the internal voids has been very effective as you don't need to scramble completely under the vehicle, and I'm going to give ramps a go for the general under surfaces. The steamer sounds like a beast .....I'll have a word with my brother to get his hand in his pocket..lol?

I think there are quite a few people out there that mistakenly use thinned engine oil to protect under surfaces and voids....they ought to think of it as battery acid...not good. If I lay anything up for winter I'll always change the engine oil to reduce the acid attack.  

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In reply to the 1st post, Built hammer products are fantastic and very easy to use. I used them on the 90 and that has lasted well. Also on my camper and I may do the discovery if it doesn't rot off before I get chance to do it. The guy I brought the discovery from had applied hammerite spray on coating badly and it had locked moisture to it and is coming off in flakes so the chassis looks awful. Want to knock all the old coating off before re treating it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been in touch with the chap that came up with the chassis wand and we've actually had some interesting chats, he's now been using a 40-50% waxoyle white spirit dilution mix in the applicator and he's been getting good results from it (I've not tested yet).

Out of the applicators I've used, I'm getting the best results from this one. (yes you might say I sound like a sales man!) but I've actually found something that actually works out the box, and that's seems to be rare these days... yawn.

 

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On a series at least, I found plenty of holes to poke it through.

But you could fix some hose to the end with large holes cut in the side, and the end plugged and basically get an industrial version of the wand above.

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The white spirit Waxoyl [or alternative was based product of your choice] mix was something I advocated way, way back. Thinning in this manner negates the need to warm the solution in cold weather - which in itself is a bit pointless since the product rapidly cools on it's journey from the can into the gun, is atomised, leaves the gun and further on it's way over to the cold steel you are treating.

Cheap Schutz gun and associated wands are fine and can be had for around the £20 mark. Likewise cheap paint spray guns will cover large areas and have the advantage of adjustable spray patterns. You aren't looking for a mirror paint finish like you would be with paint so cheap and cheerful is fine especially if you are doing one off jobs every now and again. For application on a regular basis then moving up the scale to dedicated sprayers with various nozzles & wands and easily obtainable replacement seals are going to be more reliable.

 

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