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Defender heater fan upgrade


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I experimented with a 12-24V converter which I installed as a sort of 'turbo boost' setting.  Worked pretty well - but made so much noise (think Concorde taking off!) that I didn't use it much.

I also tried a PTC electric heater in line with the original heater - and this I do like!  There is a whole thread about them on here.  It means I get hot (warm) air immediately and can use it to boost the heat output when it's very cold outside.

I fitted a heated screen too which means what heat comes out the heater can heat me rather than the screen.

Si

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It's a funny topic that comes up usually this time of year un surprising. 

I followed a fair few routes to try and improve my heater but in the end I got what I wanted by just correcting and making sure the actual system was as healthy as is should be. 

I've now got 90% standard set up and I'm perfectly happy and warm! 

I think the two biggest improvements where I used discovery heater pipes between the engine and the heater (they're slightly bigger bore) - and make sure they're not pinched anywhere. - I then fettled the cooling system,  New radiator,  New pump,  slightly bored out the thermostat housing heater supply pipe,  and most importantly found a thermostat that actually opened at 88 degrees and regulated engine temp properly - I went through 4 brand new thermostats of various makes until the new  genuine from dealer stat did the trick. 

I have a webasto that pre heats the engine water on cold days,  but that's just a bonus.

Oh and!  The previous owner had stuck a ram type scoop to the heater wing vent...  yeah it looked quite nice but after doing a quick few calcs,  the inlet size was reduced by about 60% switch back to standard vent grill and the airflow increased dramatically... mad really.  

I'd highly recommend you optimise the original system before looking for alternative add-ons... 

Oh and finally,  I've got a D1 heater fan knocking around the garage I wondered how that looked near a defender heater box,  not got around to looking at it yet... 

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Hi. 

The biggest difference I have made a couple of times, is to open up the hole through the bulkhead. At least on a LHD vehicle the hole through the bulkhead is only about 2/3 of the output hole in the heaterbox and the increase is in the "hot" side/heaterelement side.  With a bit of gymnastics it can, at least in a td, be done without removing the heaterbox using a hacksaw. 

/Mads

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I'm all for keeping the standard system and making it work as well as it possibly can. I get plenty of heat from the matrix, but very little air flow so I'm keen to fond a way to make the fan spin a bit faster. 

It could be that my fan motor is dying a bit, but new ones are £85. I don't have a known good one to compare it with. Plus I like cobbling things together. 

Just wondered if anyone has successfully replaced the motor with a scrapyard special, and if so what from. 

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set up the control cables first as noted in my post 'Feeling cold in your truck' it's in our tech archive index, a search will find it, once that is done the heat output should be better, the existing motor runs at 12v on the 2nd speed, Simon b on here does a new resistor which increase the slow 1st speed setting, might be worth trying that as well

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One other thing - replace the foam gasket between the heater box & bulkhead.  You'll find much of the air is leaking out there.  Nobody ever looks at this and mostly they are pretty manky.  That alone increased the air out of my vents by 30% or so.

 

Si

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Hm, after rereading my own post , I see that it could have been more precise. You do need to remove the heaterbox bit you dont have to disconnect it. Try to have a look at the hole through the bulkhead when you try Simons advice of replacing the gasket ?

/mads

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