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90 TGV 2.8 Sump Plug Part Number


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All the installs I've seen had either the International sump (not sure if it's modified or not) or a 300tdi sump with modified oil pickup. Most of those have gone bang by now, so likely it's the International part :rolleyes: It has a very deep oil pan behind the axle, and the drain plug is on the side of a rear corner.

I don't know if the South American Ford Ranger used a different sump, never seen one, but the 2.5 version uses the same sump as the 2.8, so I suspect not.

 

 

sump.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

Hi Dave,

Possibly a silly question but what size socket does it take to get the sump plug out? Seems to be between 27 and 30mm? 

Is it a standard size plug, as I was thinking of getting one of these for it: http://www.drainplug.co.uk/standard.html but it looks like it's a different size to the 300TDi one?

Are there any other good sources of parts other than M&D in the UK?

Thanks,

Richard

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Dunno, I just grab the fb adjustable spanner and have at it :rolleyes:

I'll try to remember to check the thread when I do the next oil change. I do know it wasn't a standard LR thread - I remember measuring it for Simon (?) at Difflock when I first put the TGV in, but nothing ever came of it. As above, there is the risk of the sump plug being different depending on the source of the engine.

I've only ever used M&D for specific TGV parts, but there isn't really much. Almost everything is 300tdi. I've bought replacement head and head gasket from M&D.

Injectors can be rebuilt by anyone with access to the right parts.

Alternator is the same (I've re-brushed it a couple of times, but it's never needed anything else). Recent Transit alternator is very similar.

Lift pump - don't bother trying tdi, just fit electric.

Cambelt and assoc. is all std tdi.

Auxiliary drive belt is an oddity - only used on one obscure BMW in western europe, but German and Swedish got hold of a few with a couple of days notice, and I've not run out yet.

There was some bloke with 10 x new TGV heads on ebay a while back at £200 each with apparently no takers - I guess he bought them thinking they were LR standard. I did think of getting one as a spare, but never did.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Apparently it's a 1 1/8" which equates to about 28.5mm, so I'll be ordering one of those at some point.

If you've got a list of part numbers and where to get bits from then it would be really useful. Need to get a spare drive belt at some point.

Richard

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When I said 'Alternator is the same' I meant, the same case as for as the injectors - can be rebuilt by anyone who rebuilds such things and has access to Bosch parts.

Whats the issue with your alternator?

It's a little unusual,  think it's 12pole instead of the usual 8 or vice versa? It's been a while since I looked hard at it, but most, if not all, parts will be available from Bosch.

The most common failure I've seen (in any LR alternator) is stuck/worn brushes - the brushes and regulator are on a carrier that easily changed for £10 or so, don't even need to remove the alternator to do it as far as I remember. (Take the Bosch code from the top of the black metal can in your picture and google it).

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On 19/03/2018 at 10:44 AM, TSD said:

When I said 'Alternator is the same' I meant, the same case as for as the injectors - can be rebuilt by anyone who rebuilds such things and has access to Bosch parts.

Whats the issue with your alternator?

It's a little unusual,  think it's 12pole instead of the usual 8 or vice versa? It's been a while since I looked hard at it, but most, if not all, parts will be available from Bosch.

The most common failure I've seen (in any LR alternator) is stuck/worn brushes - the brushes and regulator are on a carrier that easily changed for £10 or so, don't even need to remove the alternator to do it as far as I remember. (Take the Bosch code from the top of the black metal can in your picture and google it).

Thanks for clarifying. Battery light stays on unless revved hard. I've already replaced the regulator/brushes but no change. Sending to specialist may be the way to go instead of looking for a replacement.

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Just to be clear, does the light come back on when the revs drop, or stay out?

It's normal for this alt to need a few revs to put the light out from engine start in a Defender, though it can be easily sorted. It shouldn't need to be 'revved hard' though,  once the engine passes 1.5k-2k rpm the alternator should self-excite even without the feed from the warning light.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've not measured up, but Ford Transit 2.5Di Mk 3/4/5 looks like a likely option to me. That's where I'd look first.

Failing that, anything from the scrappy thats about the right size and hand, plus electric vacuum pump from something VAG and crashed.

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  • 2 years later...

I know it's an old thread but worth updating.

My alternator main bearing was getting very noisy and had some play in it. M&D can provide an alternator which is not the same as the original, but they modify a similar one so that it apparently fits exactly as it should.

I took mine off (not the simplest of tasks - it's quite buried under a lot of pipework on mine!) and dropped it into http://www.electro-diesel.co.uk/ in Exeter (before the lockdown) who stripped it down, cleared all the mud out of it, changed the bearing and sorted an oil leak in the vacuum pump and built it up again for about £115. They had all the parts on the shelf as it's a Bosch one so it was done in 2 days. I didn't think to ask whether they could provide new ones but they can certainly repair existing ones.

Richard

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