Gregved Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Hi Hope you can help. Just been driving me rebuild around last couple weeks. Got it tracked (doubt this is the cause) and I've noticed the 2 front wheels were wobbling/out of alignment. I jacked 2 front wheels up and noticed both when I spin it the camber pitch changes depending what point it stops.There not much play (3,6,9,12 oclock), wheels are put on correctly, even tried spare tyre thought it might be the alloy. I have also noticed neg camber when stationary but thought it wud just be wear and tare or spin at the same pitch. I know something isn't right, the disk spins centrally though the caliper. The defender used to go off roading before I bought it so bent axle crossed my mind, but if the axle had bent wouldnt the camber pitch stay the same as i drive it? Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 worn swivel bearings ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Gregved said: Just been driving me rebuild around last couple weeks. Got it tracked (doubt this is the cause) and I've noticed the 2 front wheels were wobbling/out of alignment. What did the people who carried out the tracking say about it? If it was fine when they tracked it and its moving about now then something has broken/shifted and it should be fairly simple to see what. I think I would start by removing the probably bent road wheels, then stick a dti on the brake disk (or improvise an indicator with a stick and weight) and see if there is any run out on the disk and wheel face, if that's in spec it has to be either the wheel is bent or possibly something like wheel spacers coming loose - Its also worth considering that some road wheels dont fit all axles properly, if the hubs are stopping the wheel seating properly that would cause the run out. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregved Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Thanks for replies. The people who did the tracking said it's within tolerance but never mentioned the camber, so they mustn't have seen it. but I checked the face of the disc on the back with a mate holding a pencil off the hub just shy of touching the disc as I span it, and it ran true all around. Funny u say about the wheels might not fit propley, not sure if it's conicendence but not sure what axle I have but where the plastic land rover cap usually fits over the hub on the boost alloy, my front wheels don't as the hub sticks too far out and left with showing through the alloy? Maybe the alloys are incompatible with my hub, Is that standard that the front caps don't fit? Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 (edited) You need to be quite careful here as with some combinations the alloys can foul on the drive member before the mounting face of the alloy sits flat on the mounting face of the hub, effectively the wheel is not clamped flat to the hub, if this is what you are experiencing its very dangerous. As an example I know Discovery 1 alloys will not fit onto early 90/110 front axles, Discovery axles have a much flatter drive member to reduce the protrusion , nor will those wheels fit on very early range rover rear axles. Stick some pictures up and that will help clarify what your trying to fit to what, as a quick test put some copper slip grease on the mating surfaces and fit the wheel, then remove it and look to see the grease has evidence of a proper fit. HTH Edited March 17, 2017 by GW8IZR changed to 90/110 not Defender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregved Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Yeah i think that's whats happening I best not drive til sorted then I guess haha. I'll get some photos taken tomorrow. I have 3 sets of 300tdi disco axles here at home, you reckon I could utilize the halfshafts / drive flange of them at fit them on the front so the alloy could fit? Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 I think fitting a Discovery axle might be the best way if you want to use D1 alloys, you will need to swap the front axle control arms as well as the width is different. There are alloys that will fit the early axles, the old three spoke wheels from a range rover should fit or more recent ZU type alloys fit as they don't cover the drive members. Its very common to swap in D1 axles to get disc brakes at the rear but just be careful about the swapping of too many parts from the original, if its a substantial rebuild you might want to think about whether it can retain its ID... a whole other story :-) HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregved Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Can I have a 24 spline on front and 10 spline on the back? That won't effect the ratio/ cause problems would it? I read all coil sprung defenders have same ratio diffs, so it should.be alright hey. Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Yes you are correct its the ratio that matters. For example I currently have a 10 spline ATB diff in the back of mine and an open 24 spline front, Your standard diffs from a coil sprung vehicle should be 3.54:1 ratio, the only minor difference is a Discovery 1 rear diff has a three bolt prop flange compared to the 'normal' four bolt flange. You can swap the flange if your donor diff dosen't match the prop. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 10 hours ago, GW8IZR said: Your standard diffs from a coil sprung vehicle should be 3.54:1 ratio, the only minor difference is a Discovery 1 rear diff has a three bolt prop flange compared to the 'normal' four bolt flange. You can swap the flange if your donor diff dosen't match the prop. HTH 200tdi series disco 1 input flange is a standard 4 bolt flange and the last year of that series were 24 spline. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 58 minutes ago, miketomcat said: 200tdi series disco 1 input flange is a standard 4 bolt flange and the last year of that series were 24 spline. Mike Your right Mike, my reply was too generic to cover all variants and I hadn't thought of early Discovery bits, but I thought it worth mentioning that there were some subtle differences to catch out the OP when he is collecting the bits together. Its always a challenge when the vehicle is made from bits ( much like most including mine ) and keeping a diary of what is fitted helps when you have to replace bits later down the line. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregved Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 OK for the Hassel of taking the front disco axle off, clean it and prep and paint it I might just swap the diff and hub etc over, so I take it they shud fit the orginal TD axle? As I presume it's just a case of changing diff and undoing stub axle bolts and putting straight on original. And there fore I'll have a 24 splined front axle and 10 spline rear (which I can change another time if needed) Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 The other alternative is a set of spacers, depending on what tyres you have and what you want out of the truck Much cheaper/easier option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregved Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Hi yeah I could that be the easier option , but I was thinking the 24 spline option might be a better choice I could either swap the whole axle or change the diff and components etc . not sure what be the easier option ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Swappingt eh whole axle gives a good opportunity to replace the bushes. Swapping the internals gives a good chance to inspect and service the innards, replace bad bearings and such. So, it depends on the condition of the new axle, really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregved Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Thanks for reply, yeah i presume the axles are both straight, but the original axle is already painted and attached etc, with new bushes all round so I'll prob just leave orginal on. Is there any diffrence between the axles I.e. strength wise etc? Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crofter Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 It's also worth remembering that the early axles have narrower radius arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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