Berto Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 For a couple of weeks now I've been having starting issues... Defender 90 1993 200tdi I love my truck but I'm rapidly losing faith in the old girl. I hope you guys can help. First here's what's been happening (followed by what I've done so far): One morning I just got the dreaded 'click' from the starter solenoid and nothing else. Dash lights were normal and bright. No start. I checked the battery: 12.8v Tried again, and she started straight away. Since then the problem has become increasingly frequent and is now repeatable every time I get in, hot or cold. I turn the ignition key, wait for the glow light to go out and get a dead click from the solenoid. Try again and she'll either fire up perfectly, or click several more times until eventually the starter motor runs and she fires up. There's no pattern to the number of times I get the dead click. Battery is always fine with around 12.8v. I've check the ground connection from the battery terminals and the heavy leads to the chassis and the ends are clean. I get good continuity from a multi-meter between the -v on the battery and any point on the chassis or engine. Today I removed the starter motor (first dropping out the exhaust pipe, shroud and washer bottle for access). The cable connections all looked good and clean (I cleaned them again anyway). I took the solenoid apart as per a video I'd seen on youtube and gave the cylinder and housing a light clean and touch of oil, but really everything looked fine. There was small amount of pitting and corrosion on the cylinder but even before cleaning everything was free and not binding. The actuator arm had just a bit of resistance but nothing more than I'd expect, and the pinion gear moved out from the body as expected. Next I hooked the motor input up to 12v using some jump leads and she span fast and easily. Then I took the bearing cap and main rear cap off the starter motor. The bearing still had a little grease on and seemed fine. The motor body had some carbon 'plate' like bits in which I carefully cleaned out and the brushes all have plenty left on them and all moved freely. I was actually surprised how clean the inside was really. All carefully reassembled. Reinstalled the starter and made sure to clean the solenoid spade and connector thoroughly. Then I thought I'd test it before putting the exhaust, etc back on. She fired up perfectly for at least half a dozen times, no dead clicks. (I was pretty pleased with myself at this point!) Got to work putting the exhaust and washer bottle back on, cleaned up, then got ready for a quick drive to be extra happy....... What do you know? dead click!!!!!!!!! I've video'd what happens on starting..... Sorry its such a boring bit of footage but I don't know what else to try and don't have the means to just buy a new starter to test. Any suggestions on what I've missed or what to try next would be extremely gratefully received! Thanks everyone. Berto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonderdust Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Maybe ignition switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 It's the high current contactors in the end of the solenoid , under the battery cable studs would be my guess , just get a new solenoid if you can find the maker ? or take it to a good auto electric repairer for a new one . cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Could also be the start relay going bad. Check or replace that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 9 minutes ago, Red90 said: Could also be the start relay going bad. Check or replace that as well. Do I find that in the engine bay, or with the fuses in front of the gear lever? Cheers for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 46 minutes ago, steve b said: It's the high current contactors in the end of the solenoid , under the battery cable studs would be my guess , just get a new solenoid if you can find the maker ? or take it to a good auto electric repairer for a new one . cheers Steveb Thanks for your help Steveb. I guess if I removed the lead from the solenoid to the motor and tested the solenoid output with a multimeter, that might show the fault. I found a Bearmach solenoid for £30 inc vat online. Definitely cheaper than a whole new starter! Berto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Run a lead from the starter ignition feed to a test bulb you can see when you try to start it to ensure it's getting power as you try to start it to eliminate your ignition switch, Is the click coming from the starter if so connect the test lamp to the starter side of the solenoid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 3 hours ago, Berto said: Do I find that in the engine bay, or with the fuses in front of the gear lever? Cheers for your help! It is in the fuse box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 ***SOLVED*** (with help ) Just though I'd wrap this up and let you know it was indeed the high current switch in the solenoid at fault. After checking through all the electrics and starter relay, then pulling the starter out for the second time, I couldn't get it to fail on the bench, although the motor sounded quite rough. I almost entirely stripped the motor and cleaned it out, lightly greased the planetary gears and reassembled. Tested the motor which ran much smoother than before, then after a dozen or so more tests with the solenoid I got it to fail (that is the solenoid actuated but no motor). A multimeter on the high current lead from solenoid to motor showed zero volts. Interestingly, I did find a piece on the internet that helps to diagnose a motor that is running but knackered by measuring the battery voltage whilst the motor is running... If the voltage drops significantly more than a volt or two, then there are likely to be issues with the motor. Mine dropped to 11.5v. Not exhaustive, but might be helpful for someone. Anyway, new solenoid from Bearmach fitted today, and all is good again Thanks very much for the pointers guys! Cheers, Berto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Glad you got to the bottom of it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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