L19MUD Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 I have an early bolt on pinion bearing series diff that is rough to turn. I removed the pinion seal and the bearing in there spins easily with a screwdriver. when turning the output flange it seems to notch round. I can count ten notches to a turn. Is this the pinion gears damaged? the crown wheel looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 The half shafts have ten splines, and I think the pinion has ten splines too. Seems unlikely to be coincidence. I suspect you have a pinion or flange with stripped splines that are slipping past each other but catching partly on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 19, 2017 Author Share Posted April 19, 2017 visually the pinion looks fine and looks to mesh fine with the crown wheel. I guess there is not much I can do with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 Sounds like it needs rebuilding with new bearings, then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 It sounds like crud in the taper roller bearings , or flat sided taper rollers , almost certainly rebuild-able given that the gears and splines are in decent shape ,so worth keeping . If memory serves the pinion is 4 splines on early 4.7 : 1 units ? cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 19, 2017 Author Share Posted April 19, 2017 I guess the question is how difficult it it to change the bearings and do I need any special tools to set it back up? are there 10 teeth on the pinion gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 with a bit of care it is feasible to do it all yourself , it is detailed in the factory workshop manual (got those here ) , the inner taper bearing seat ring can be ground off or buy a set of bearing puller wedge rings . The bearings will almost certainly be available from East Anglia Bearings too . The pinion is 10 tooth . Or get HfH to chuck it together for you ? Really must pop over for a look Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 19, 2017 Author Share Posted April 19, 2017 I have the manual somewhere thanks. Is it worth just taking the diff out of the casing, cleaning up the bearings with brake cleaner and the compressor and seeing if that sorts it? Guess I have nothing to lose welcome to pop over Steve. Not about this weekend but will be the one after, just drop me a text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 I would do that first - it also gives you a chance to look at the outer race rings for the carrier , if all looks good re-assemble with plenty of gear oil and see what you have . If you can dismantle without moving the lockring on the tooth side of the crownwheel you will have an easier time reassembling - knock the roll pin out to allow the cap to lift off leaving the lock nut in place . will be in touch Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 It's not an easy thing to rebuild. If it's knackered, try sourcing a good second-hand replacement, unless you feel confident doing it of course... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 Thanks all. Will clean it out with brake cleaner and re oil it and see where I go from there. If it seems acceptable I may just put it in the front axle and use the one that is 100% in the back axle. Just a stub axle damaged thread to sort now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Don't put a damaged or suspect diff in the front (or back) - it's bad enough that it could fail leaving you without drive in that axle, but the real risk is sudden seizure that could cause a loss of control and a serious accident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 That's why he is going to clean it and inspect it Nick . If all checks out and it was indeed dirt in the taper rollers and it's all smooth with an appropriate amount of backlash and tooth contact there is no reason it should fail . Steve b 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 I am going to do exactly that. Makes sense to put the diff in the back which is always load bearing which has never had a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 25, 2017 Author Share Posted April 25, 2017 Thanks for the advice on this. I stripped it and gave it all a good clean up last night and then reassembled. It is now as smooth as the other diff with the same amount of backlash A few pounds saved! :-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 Good to hear , and original parts retained too cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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