Rear Crossmember Rust Prevention

[JST]

apart from Galvanising it

Any ideas what is the best paint to use on the rear cross member to stop it rusting and lasts more than 12mths before it has to be recoated?

[chadler]

I'm convinced the worst thing you can do to a chassis is paint it, it just flakes off and chips. Give it a good wire brushing and black waxoyl it. After a few coats applied whenever the mood takes you you'll get a decent tough coating on the steel, rather than a shiny hammerite skin that conceals rust and comes off in sheets.

[JST]

for the chassis i agree although am after something a bit better for the cross member you recommend the same?

plus any ideas why this post is here twice now anyone?????

[siggy]

there is a company out there the will protect you

they were formed in the vietnam

imprisoned for a crime it didn't commit

it promptly escaped

so may be if you lucky

you'll be able to find

the

kleenteam sorry kleentech

car warmed up coat on heading for it

[NegevLandRover]

plus any ideas why this post is here twice now anyone?????

And I thought that you were just trying to be clever and get your "newbie" upgraded to something more fitting by double posting

Adam

[chadler]

no idea why its appeared twice, maybe if i post this then it will go up for a third time! Yup, waxoyl for everything i say. I've done my chassis about once a year with it, and all the bits in reach whenever i expose part of it for maintainance, now the whole chassis has a nice matt black coating that seems to be impervious to everything, the crossmember looks great, i'm always suspect of a gloss black painted rear crossmember, normally means the rest of the chassis is in a shocking state!

[SteveG]

You can try Dinitrol 445 or 447 antistone chip paint and then over paint or wax with Waxoyl or Dinitrol 441

Cheers

Steve

[ARIF]

(My second post on this new Board!)

I'm precisely at the same point with my 2002 TD5 - rear cross-member surface rust appearing now. Aaargh!!

I certainly like the idea of using underbody wax - but does/will this not come off on clothes? When rummaging about in the back of my Landie, when still standing outside, but leaning well in to the load-space - the fronts of my legs are leaning quite heavily into the cross-member.

Any experience? Is 28 degrees Celsius enough to start making it gummy?

I've just bought about 5 cans of Dinitrol '4641' (IIRC). And then their brown cavity wax, too. (From Frost's)

Thanks in advance, all...!

Arif

[Ben Reedy]

Just rub down to remove the loose stuff then coat liberally with POR15 from Frost. Then mix any wax with kerosine, enough to make it stay liquid at ambient temperature, and spray it on. And no, don't do the rear crossmember outside, it will look a mess. Best just leave the bare POR15, which will fade to a sort of dark grey.

While you're in waxing mode, put on the long probe and wiggle it up through the drain holes in the bulkhead legs, above the two big bolts, until you can hear the end scratching around right up in the top corner of the BH, then squeeze the trigger and let it gush out while slowly withdrawing the probe. Your Landy will thank you for it.

[reads90]

apart from Galvanising it

Any ideas what is the best paint to use on the rear cross member to stop it rusting and lasts more than 12mths before it has to be recoated?

Get it painted like this and it won't rust. Ours was done 26 months ago and still looks like this today

26 months ago

the other week

as you can see it is still fine

[Ivan]

So what was it painted with ?

Ivan

[fisha]

thats just what i was going to ask.

personal plan for the rear half of the RR is to brush off the worst of the rust. paint it with POR15, and then a normal style paint ( not hammerite ) and then waxoyl.

[Des Morgan]

All I did to the 2A chassis was: 1. Wire brush it. 2. Cold Galv. 3. Apply thinnned down Bitumious paint , ober the new steel brake lines as well. 4. Let it dry.

Optioal: Use a Rust neutraliser such as Rust Eater or its equivalent. I didn't.

6 years on it's as good as the day it was applied.

[M005]

I am sure Tony (White90) will have some comments on POR15, however after using on the chassis of the 110, I would have to say that I can't confirm the marketing blurb.

After 6 months or so it had started to peel off, the surface was pitted and generally not much (if any) improved over Hammerite.

Also note that POR15 works 'best' on a slightly rust surface (albeit one that has been throughily cleaned with degreaser).

Tony will be able to provide a view of the longer term durability as he still has the vehicle he applied it to. I think Darthdicky may have also applied to his 90?

A search on the old forum will throw up some long posts on POR15 which may make useful reading

[SiWhite]

I have to say that my experiences with POR 15 haven't been all that great either!

My little sis is sponsered by Blakes - they make boat paint amongst other things.

I've just taken delivery of a great big tin of epoxy paint.

This stuff (the expxy primer undercoat)

IMHO if it's good enough for painting the hulls of steel ships then it should last on a Landie!

[JST]

so, Reads 90 - and it is treated with.................................................?????

[reads90]

so, Reads 90 - and it is treated with.................................................?????

Painted with normal halfords rust prevet stuff (several coats), then rubbed down and painted with black car body paint (several coats again). Then Lackered

[darthdicky]

I put POR15 on my chassis and it's stuck brilliantly to the slightly rusty rear section of chassis, but peeled off in sheets on any vaguely smooth metal or with a coat of paint over it (fuel tank etc.).

Depends on the condition of your chassis, but I'd say it has to be fairly rusty to actually make it stick.

Richard

[JST]

richard,

exactly what i found, if you put it on a smooth surface (POR15 that is) it just peals off, but sticks to rust like bu****y.

in the end i sued 1 coat of POR15, 1 coat of chassis black from the same people. the finish looked horrendous though so it then got 3 coats of spray on smooth hammerite. will see how long that lasts.

i last did it 2 or maybe 3 yrs ago with just the POR15 and the chassis black which shows why the chassis black was now a poor finsih being 2/3 yrs years old - that stuff, like POR15 is difficult to keep.

[white90]

POR15 should be POS15 IMHO

biggest waste of time/money on my 90

rust/clean/flat/shiney/rough

it peeled off of all of them...

Halfords Matt Black enamel is all I use now hard wearing and easy to recoat.

my rollcage is painted with it and no paint has been lost even after contact with trees.

the POS15 is still peeling to this day I'll be glad when it has all fallen off.

and yes I did follow the instructions with metal ready primer etc etc.

[headhunter]

The spray shop I use recommend Granville Paint

Product Granville Hammer and Smooth Finish Paint.

Product Description

Granville Hammer and smooth Finish gives an attractive and protective finish to all types of

substrate. On ferrous substrates it provides a tough impermeable barrier to air and moisture which

effectively seals out corrosion. Unlike currently available metal finishes, it does not contain harmful

solvents and has been designed to be slower drying making it easier and safer to use.

Suggested Uses:

For use as a decorative / protective coating for bicycles, forktrucks, garden furniture, trailers,

tanks, caravans, cars, etc. Can also be used on wood.

Preparation

On ferrous substrates it is recommended to wire brush and abrade to remove loose material and to

provide a key. It is also recommended to wash the surface with detergent and water to remove oil

and grease.

They say it is highly durable and ideal for rear xmembers.

Hope this helps.

John

Application

Brush: Using a suitable sized brush apply paint evenly using multi-directional strokes. Apply paint

thickly and evenly then level out to avoid runs and sags.

Roller: Use a natural fibre roller. Cover the area evenly. Some thinning may be required.

Spray: Thin with white spirit. Apply multiple coats allowing paint to dry between coats. Use a gun

pressure of 30-40 psi.

Cleaning

Use white spirit or turpentine substitute for thinning product and cleaning equipment.

Granville Oil & Chemicals Ltd, Unit 29 Goldthorpe Industrial Estate, Goldthorpe, Rotherham, South Yorkshire S63 9BL

Tel: +44 (0)1709-890099 E-Mail: info@granville-oilchem.co.uk

Touch dry 1.5 hours

Tack free 4.0 hours

Overcoating After 12 hours

Salt spray: Panels coated with Granville metal finish will pass 1000 hours salt spray exposure to

ASTM B117 when applied to the recommended film thickness of 100 um.

Artificial weathering: After 600 hours exposure to ASTM G53-77 panels coated with Granville

metal finish will show minimal colour and gloss degradation.

Impact resistance: DIN 55 669 Granville metal finish paint once cured shows excellent impact

resistance.

[Hillbilly Raider]

Mine went rusty and i have been nagging other half for months to do something about it.

Other week was doing a photo shoot for a mag and wanted it seeing to before said shoot.

What did other half do?.... BACK TO BL**DY BLACK BUMPER POLISH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(did look good for a day or 2 i must admit!)

Needless to say he aint getting away with it!! LOL

[davidov1]

My little sis is sponsered by Blakes - they make boat paint amongst other things.

This stuff (the expxy primer undercoat)

IMHO if it's good enough for painting the hulls of steel ships then it should last on a Landie!

Blakes grey metallic primer really does stop rust on clean bare metal,I've used it on mild steel boat fittings which were in salt water for 6 months and there wasn't a trace of rust on them.

[Jimmy Two-Jacks]

(My second post on this new Board!)

I'm precisely at the same point with my 2002 TD5 - rear cross-member surface rust appearing now. Aaargh!!

I certainly like the idea of using underbody wax - but does/will this not come off on clothes? When rummaging about in the back of my Landie, when still standing outside, but leaning well in to the load-space - the fronts of my legs are leaning quite heavily into the cross-member.

Any experience? Is 28 degrees Celsius enough to start making it gummy?

I've just bought about 5 cans of Dinitrol '4641' (IIRC). And then their brown cavity wax, too. (From Frost's)

Thanks in advance, all...!

Arif

Don't worry if you are in Britain that kind of weather is rare! You could try 3M shutz that says on the tin it sets but I don't know if it will transfer when the weather is warm

[Jimmy Two-Jacks]

Or you could use (cold) galvanising paint