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selectcase

200 tdi crank damper and pully

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I am about to reassemble the cambelt, pullys etc. The crank *& keyways are in good condition and i was wandering what you guys do about assembling the crank pully & damper together. Do you use anti sieze assembly so they are not such a bugger to get off the next time or loctite to stop them coming loose? I know you use loctite on the crank bolt threads.

cheers

will

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sorry but can i add a question

what sort of ummmppphh do i need to do the tensioner upto

my 200's also in lots of bits awaiting re-assembly

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sorry but can i add a question

what sort of ummmppphh do i need to do the tensioner upto

a lot :lol: cant remember off the top of my head but its up somewhere like 280 Nm (for a 200 tdi)

when i did mine i was slipping the clutch so couldnt get it any tighter, but today ive just got one of these from ebay crank locking tool

so i can now re-tighten my crank (200 tdi) and do the Disco 300 Tdi cambelt we've got.

edit.

i am on about the damper bolt, not the belt tensioner, quoted wrong post here.

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Tension on the square hole for the cambelt tensioner should be 18-20 Nm. At least on a Disco engine, I might add... Done that today, see. ;)

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Tension on the square hole for the cambelt tensioner should be 18-20 Nm. At least on a Disco engine, I might add... Done that today, see. ;)

ta

thats my bit sorted

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Pulley/damper bolts are 4 x M8 coarse bolts, use a small amount of any thread locking compound as these bolts don't usually work loose. Timing belt tensioner I set at 20nm.

Setting the tensioner 'until the clutch slips' will see the belt snapped/timing case wrecked/or similar, (bit of confusion going on here I think ) :)

Les.

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Pulley/damper bolts are 4 x M8 coarse bolts, use a small amount of any thread locking compound as these bolts don't usually work loose. Timing belt tensioner I set at 20nm.

Setting the tensioner 'until the clutch slips' will see the belt snapped/timing case wrecked/or similar, (bit of confusion going on here I think ) :)

Les.

He was referring to the large bolt holding the dampener onto the crankshaft.

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Pulley/damper bolts are 4 x M8 coarse bolts, use a small amount of any thread locking compound as these bolts don't usually work loose. Timing belt tensioner I set at 20nm.

Setting the tensioner 'until the clutch slips' will see the belt snapped/timing case wrecked/or similar, (bit of confusion going on here I think ) :)

Les.

I quoted wrong post there :rolleyes: but cause im new and posts are still moderated, i couldnt edit it when i realised id done it wrong

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assembling the crank pully & damper together

That statement wasn't describing the crank bolt to me, hence my reply. Tensioner remark was tongue in cheek, hence the presence of the smiley :)

Les.

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Sorry - I may have caused some confusion here, what i am talking about are the crankshaft cog for driving the cambelt and the pully damper - they both slide on the crank shaft and locate via the 2 woodruf keys.

As they are frequently siezed on the crank when attempting to change a cambelt requiring a puller to get them off the shaft I was thinking of using a little antisieze compound but they appear to have been assembled on the shaft with loctite.

I am using new woodruf keys, new crank cog etc so everything is squeaky clean - hope that clarifies it :)

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Genuine manual says fit the crank pulley [no mention of any substances between it & crankshaft] & fit damper using loctite 242 on the crank bolt threads only before torquing the bolt up.

I've never used anything on the crank for these 2 parts not had any problem removing them at timing belt change time.

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Just lightly lubricate the nose of the crank with engine oil or light grease, then assemble as per Ralphs reply.

Les.

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