DC_ Posted November 22, 2007 Author Share Posted November 22, 2007 No no mate never thought that, words can be taken in the wrong context sometimes as i have learned over the years on forums. Your right i really should get a decent manual, my haynes book of lies is pretty carp for these things as it only covers basics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 Newbee here I have been running a couple of RR classics over the last 4 years or so. The first one died when the cooling system pressurization got the better of the plastic rad plug while I was on the m40 at speed. Combination of dead engine, lots of rust, high mileage saw the end of that vehicle. So I hunted down a low mileage rust free unit. And found one too…. Trouble was that it hadn’t been used nor serviced for a while and I had similar problems to you. Using my learning’s from dealing with the higher mileage snotter I was able to fix the problem really easily; New GENUINE cap and Rotor GENUINE=PRICEY but Pattern doesn’t work, oddly they work fine on My Triumph v8 in the Stag!! New Plug, and leads (as has been mentioned routing the HT leads makes a difference and cuts down on lots of misfires) New engine flame trap and breather pipes Checked vacuum pipes to plenum (not forgetting that little buggr near the stepper motor (air bypass valve) New Fuel filter New Air Filter I also removed the plenum cover and cleared out 12 years of accumulated carp from the inside and around the trumpet base. While the trumpet base was off the engine I checked that the inlet manifold was torqued to the heads. I cleaned up the surface of the inlet manifold and sealed the joint between inlet manifold and trumpet base using blue hylomar Removed the stepper motor from the plenum and cleaned with carbcleaner. Sealed the plenum cover to the trumpet base again using blue hylomar Checked the air hose between airflow meter and plenum inlet for damage, holes etc Did the whole lot in a single day and it ran a treat. When I start the engine from cold it revs to about 1200 but settles quickly to 750. when warm it idles at 500ish rpm. Very smooth too. Sometimes the engine idle is very low, so low in-fact that the tacho doesn’t register but it still runs and doesn’t stall. I agree OP should invest in manuals, they do answer soo many questions and more quickly. Plus I find them great fun to read. Mine are devoid of oily finger prints and are regular bed time reading.. Crikey did I write that out loud? The Haynes “replacement is simply a reversal of removal process” is not too bad, I also bought a RR Classic CD manual from my local LR part supplier which is great. Simply find what I want print it off and go to the Garage. HTH Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 22, 2007 Author Share Posted November 22, 2007 Thanks for that Richard. All of the above except for the plenum chamber clean out and the sealing. Seeing as my hoses are not 100% i think thats my first option, then i can test her again and see if the "slight" problem persists. Haven't yet tested her out yet since getting GENUINE rotor arm. It's all sitting down there ready to go. Just cant find enough time just now. weekend maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 For clarity, I'd invest in the parts manual, not the service manual - it's far more useful to see how it goes together and what every single part is called (with the correct part#) than to have a book that describes how to undo a nut / press a bearing etc. The main thing I've used my green bible for was the chassis dimensions diagram and the wiring diagram, rest of the time I look at the parts book. It also helps to reduce f**kups by Paddocks (etc.) sending the wrong bit if you can give them a list of part numbers rather than describing oily bits down the phone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 22, 2007 Author Share Posted November 22, 2007 Parts manual ..................................i know another question, from a LR dealer? Specifically for range rover? On another wee note, took the rangie out tonight for a 15 min test drive with new GENUINE Rotor Arm on and cap. No sign of cutting out or stopping even when i held it on brake in drive for a few mins..................I'm scared to get excited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 I'm scared to get excited. Might get SWMBO to get out and iron my "Told you so" T-Shirt" Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 Parts manual ..................................i know another question, from a LR dealer?Specifically for range rover? Paddocks and many other places sell them, usually about £25. The Range Rover one (86-91) is part number RTC9908CB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 23, 2007 Author Share Posted November 23, 2007 LOL@ Hybrid, i'll really need to test it now and i'll buy you a new T-Shirt if all is ok. Firdge = Would that manual still be ok for my 92? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Ahhhh, the good ol' 92 model year! In my experience, you will need pre 92 and post 92 manuals and parts books as 92 is a big change over year for a lot of things on the RR . Alternatively, you could always use the almost infalable data base known as R.A.L.P.H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 23, 2007 Author Share Posted November 23, 2007 Now ye've just went and confused me again LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Ralph, aka Western on here is the font of all knowledge regarding LR parts. If you post a part number request you are almost guaranteed a reply within 15 nanoseconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 I found that with my '85 RR, a lot of bits are actually '86. No harm buying both, parts books are a very good investment and will save you a lot of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 If it ran fine for 15 mins its just lulling you into a false sense of security so you take it for a long drive. At which point it will probably bite you in the a--! Interesting that it started behaving itself with the correct rotor & cap. Bears out everything said here & on other forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 23, 2007 Author Share Posted November 23, 2007 Aye it probably will bite me on the A** but i will try later to give it a better run out. Fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 23, 2007 Author Share Posted November 23, 2007 One hour and 15 mins test drive = Never cut out once. Stopped, started, reversed, held it on drive, went up the bypass at 65mph, Turned it off, started it back up, done more stopping and starting. Nothing. Even changed over to LPG and done the same. Runs ok on LPG also. When it idles you can hear and feel a very slight lumping. Dont know if it's a slight misfire. Rechecked all leads for cross over incase of Arcing (?) There was one i wasn't happy with so sorted it better. I'll still do all the breathe filter and new hoses when i get a chance but it really is feeling much much better. So much better i'm taking it away tomorrow camping in the glens of scotland in -3 conditions..........................brave or stupid, i'll let you's know on sunday LOL Just want to say a huge thanks to all who chipped in with all the advice, really do appreciate it guys for putting up with me. So there's a pint at the bar if i ever get to any events. I'll also make a donation to the running of the forum as i'm sure i'll need more advice soon . Which one then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 23, 2007 Share Posted November 23, 2007 Being a 3.9 Hotwire I'd say go for the 92-94 book as mine (86-91) doesn't cover the 3.9 or hotwire setups. RTC9961CB Range Rover Classic Parts Book - 1992-94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 23, 2007 Author Share Posted November 23, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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