western Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Hi guys the permanent live - 'purple wire' seems to have no power on my defender. after tracing from the hazard light switch it seems to be cut off in the radio compartment , if I connect 12v to the line I have hazards. I would prefer to have the original connection linked back to the fuse box. could any of you please tell me which fuse number it connects to and the purple wire joins to what color wire at the fuse. I have checked the fuse box and cannot pickup the purple with brown strip wire. much appreciated what year & model of defender, it'll help with giving you the right info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Ok so on mine I'm getting 12v from the purple no probs but when doing the test as per original post I get nothing lighting up. Iv had new hazard switch, stalk and relay. Today iv tried for power at the connector block for the relay but get nothing. All fuses are ok. I'm at the end of my wit wi th now. try connecting direct to relay without the connector block, maybe the wire/terminal in block is very poor or not correctly crimped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 As in from the hazard switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 MMM strange moment cut out the old glass fuse and installed a waterproof inline job, replaced the original relay and were away. Hazards and indicators are all working as they should. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 dirty/corroded fuse clips then, lets hope the lights stay 'alive' now & there's no more problems 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 I remember the horror of glass fuses and their holders. Time now to exchange them all for a blade fuse block Ian, it'll be time well spent. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Is there a kit I can buy to do the job or do I just have to try and find holders that fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I recall there being aftermarket generic fuse blocks that sort of fitted but most people who changed just used the fuse panel and blocks from later scrap Defenders and just soldered and/or used new fittings. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 depending on how many fuses in each block, have a look at V.W.P 2 of their 8 way blade fuse holders might do the job --------- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/122/1/blade-fuse-holders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Cheers. Im sure there the same as the ones i found in demon tweeks last night 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 When I had my truck apart the first time I replaced the glass fuses for blades, with only I minor tweak of the original hole (from memory) you can fit 2x of these from the back, they look remarkably factory. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/664/8-way-blade-fuse-box/b1458ee8e8778989ab7ccb81cf825076 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 When I had my truck apart the first time I replaced the glass fuses for blades, with only I minor tweak of the original hole (from memory) you can fit 2x of these from the back, they look remarkably factory. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/664/8-way-blade-fuse-box/b1458ee8e8778989ab7ccb81cf825076 that's the ones I linked to/mentioned above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 I hot day... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 they look rather good fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Cheers lads. Will get some ordered and try and find some spare time to fit them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Enjoy ? Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZIKOMO Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Hi all, new here and pretty hopeless on electrickery so please bear with! My 97 300 CSW has developed a problem whereby when either LH or RH indicators are selected all 4 flash as they do with the hazard switch activated. The switch is in pretty poor (standard 20yr old Lucas) condition so have ordered a new one but meanwhile tried some testing by removing the switch and jumping terminals in the connector block with following outcomes: Jump from either supply to Light Green flasher unit functions and all lights flash Jump from supply to GW, LH lights on solid Jump from supply to GR, RH lights on solid My question therefore is; should the switch be NC across the upper 2 of the bottom 4 pins to allow the stalk selection to direct flow to LH or RH and if, due to deteriorating, the white floating strip with terminals had allowed it go NO, could this cause the above condition? I've ordered a new switch and flasher relay but really would like to know if I'm on the right track! Cheers, Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green200tdi Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Hi all, land rover 110 csw c plate 1986, right had a look on this topic cant really find anything, my problem is my hazard warning light switch, all is ok for few weeks indicators working hazards working then out of the blue indicators pack up but still have hazard light working, if i replace switch we are ok once again, the old switch i replace smell burnt, also with hazards/indicators 15amp fuse is hot so much so you can not touch it but it wont blow, come out this morning to check fuse nothing is working indicators/hazard lights went in for a cuppa as you d,o come out half hour later and the hazard lights are flashing away but still no indicators, im on hazard light switch number 3 now also has top lights over the rear door stop/side/indicators but no different from towing, any ideas? might be a fault someone has had? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Flasher relay ? When I've had problems of this nature in the past I have replaced the cheapest bits first, so probably flasher relay, hazard switch and then indicator switch. Burning can indicate high resistance at connectors so make sure your connectors are clean and check your wiring for intermittent shorts through chafing or cuts. Change that fuse if you haven't already in case it's faulty, I've had a big one melt before and not blow and clean the connections of the holder. My money would probably be on the flasher relay if you've changed the switch several times. Hopefully there may be some pointers for you too Alan. HTH Mo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 41 minutes ago, roverv8 said: Hi all, land rover 110 csw c plate 1986, right had a look on this topic cant really find anything, my problem is my hazard warning light switch, all is ok for few weeks indicators working hazards working then out of the blue indicators pack up but still have hazard light working, if i replace switch we are ok once again, the old switch i replace smell burnt, also with hazards/indicators 15amp fuse is hot so much so you can not touch it but it wont blow, come out this morning to check fuse nothing is working indicators/hazard lights went in for a cuppa as you d,o come out half hour later and the hazard lights are flashing away but still no indicators, im on hazard light switch number 3 now also has top lights over the rear door stop/side/indicators but no different from towing, any ideas? might be a fault someone has had? The rear upper indicators -- do they each have a relay to drive each side or are they directly wired into the standard L & R indicator ? if no relay's the trailer indicator light will work when no trailer connected as the circuit will see the additional load on indicator circuit as if a trailer is connected, a relay in each side will prevent that happening, also strip the hazard switch & ensure all the brass contacts & the sliding part are clean & lube with a smear of vaseline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green200tdi Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 (edited) id say looking at your question the rear top indicators over the door are wired straight to rear bottom indicators as the towing dash light (green)comes on every time i indicate, but having said that be no different from having a trailer on the 110 all the time so guess be ok also this is new switch 3 now Edited March 26, 2017 by roverv8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 better to fit a relay to each of the upper indicators, then when you do connect a trailer you will have the legally required trailer ind telltale, the trailer ind light should flash once then stay off with no trailer connected, & with trailer connected it will/should flash in unison with vehicle indicators/tell tale, check the trailer socket wiring as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZIKOMO Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 (edited) Can anyone point me to header connection 0292 on my RHD 97 Tdi CSW please? Symptoms as my earlier post whereby hazard flashers work with switch and any indicator selection from the stalk I've replaced the switch, tested the flasher unit on another vehicle and taken the stalk out of play by disconnecting the plug and jumping across the bare terminals. I've also removed each indicator/repeater lamp as well as the trailer socket and tested for earth, current and resistance which are all good. I even opened up the rear light access panel and checked all the car to trailer loom connections so now the only thing I can think that's left is a short between LH & RH indicators at the apparently (in)famous header connector. I found a few posts with photos but have been unable to work out where to start delving! Thanks in advance, Alan Edited March 28, 2017 by ZIKOMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Check the connections on the indicator stalk. It's easy for them to short across. Or the indicator stalk itself could be faulty. Power provided via the hazard switch to the indicator stalk which then directs it to the appropriate side of the vehicle. The problem has to be downstream of the indicator stalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZIKOMO Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 7 hours ago, C18RCH said: Check the connections on the indicator stalk. It's easy for them to short across. Or the indicator stalk itself could be faulty. Power provided via the hazard switch to the indicator stalk which then directs it to the appropriate side of the vehicle. The problem has to be downstream of the indicator stalk. Thanks - really appreciate the input but as mentioned; I've removed the stalk from the circuit and tried shorting across at the plug with the same result so yes, it must be downstream from there which is why I'm looking for the header connection. That seems to be where I can best isolate side from side and try to identify where the short is. Also I understand these headers do have a history of failing and occasionally creating such a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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