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Paint for Rear Crossmember and Tow Bar??


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Can anyone suggest a spray-on paint for these parts, which are beginning to rust..? Is there anything which will inhibit the rust or should I just use a rust inhibitor first before spraying with ordinary black? I'm looking for a reasonable finish as the motor isn't that old.. The oil industry (which I used to be in) used some bulletproof paint for external steelwork, but I can't find any info on what it was.. Any help appreciated..

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Can anyone suggest a spray-on paint for these parts, which are beginning to rust..? Is there anything which will inhibit the rust or should I just use a rust inhibitor first before spraying with ordinary black? I'm looking for a reasonable finish as the motor isn't that old.. The oil industry (which I used to be in) used some bulletproof paint for external steelwork, but I can't find any info on what it was.. Any help appreciated..

Give it a good sand or wire brush and if you only "rattle can spraying" then definateley do this, go to wilko and get a tin of black spray enamel at £2 a spray can,im in the trade so i know about me paints and as a quick diy then this is good,

Its thicker than hammerite, so do a dust coat and then two normal coats

ps.. i used to live in beauly and then muir of ord

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Why restrict yourself to spray? Some time ago Wickes 'Direct to Metal Paint' was recommended on the forum. I tied it and am very impressed. It goes on very well and (if you take care) doesn't leave brush marks. So far it's taken a lot of punishment and still cleans up well with occasional (very occasional) washing. About £8 for 750ml tin, enough to do job 10 times over.

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Just thought this through. If you're in "just starting to rust" territory it must be quite new, very new? :unsure:

I'm normally in the "been rusting to bu##ery for years" end of the market :rolleyes: . The Wickes paint is very gloss. Which might look a little odd if your chassis is semi matt.

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I bought 24 tins of Hammerite black (12 smooth/12 satin) got them 1/2 the price of hight street and Ebay, but for rear cross members I use the hand painted version, as I want a nice thick coat of paint to keep the crud off.

I use shiney black, but it does not stay this way for long, but when you come to clean it, having gloss makes a hige difference.

Also having both from same company [aerosol and tin of paint) means they wont react with each other when I use the spray to get into the nooks and crannies...

FYI have NAS style towbar which was rubbed down and sprayed with four coats in garage, rest of the bits (and now the tobar bolts etc) are coated with hand painted black.

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Ta for suggestions, should have added that I have spray equipment and a big compressor. My 90 is a 2002 with low miles.., Letsgetdirty, I live near to Foxhole on the 'back road' to Drumnadrochit, 7 miles from Beauly.

Have never had good results with Hammerite stuff, even the smooth variety, it doesn't seem to last unless you put several coats on, then it tends to look less than smooth.. (IMHO). I used to use the 'old' Kurust when it was a thick grey paint, magic on trail bike exhausts as it was heatproof! Might get Loctite rust inhibitor (which I just found in my local Forty Thieves Garage) for the crossmember and then spray with standard black paint. There are many industrial rust proofing paints described on the web, but finding one I can buy is impossible. I used POR15 (from Frosts) on a chassis once but found some of it it came off in big flakes.. On bits that don't show but which need protection, such as wheelarches I have used a mixture of black Waxoyl and 'soft' underseal to good effect, sprayed on after heating it up in a bucket of hot water, using one of those sprayguns with a pick-up tube which screws on to the top of a litre can of underseal.. Which I must do again.. I end up looking like a liquorice allsort..

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Letsgetdirty, I live near to Foxhole on the 'back road' to Drumnadrochit, 7 miles from Beauly.

kiltarlity way,your in paradise, miss being there with all heart, worked at Delmore Cars Skoda for 3 years, go see kenny doulle on the carse ind estate, he will sort that very cheaply,i used to work for him,hope you get sorted, to be honest though as a trained painter a quick rub down with 400 for rusty bits and a light rub all over, then the wilko gloss enamel is without any doubt "perfect" its so thick that nothing will penetrate its finish for years if properly done, i wouldnt bother getting the compressor going

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I stripped my rear cross member down to bare metal with a grinder fitted with disk for stripping paint. It looks like a rubber sponge. Can't remember what it's called. Sprayed it with several coats of satin hammerite. It looks as good if not better than factory finish. I've even tried chipping it, didn't even mark it. I'm really pleased with it, and i'm a perfectionist.

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We have a Wickes in Inverness, but if only we had a Wilko's, the nearest is near Newcastle, I think. My wife buys picture frames there and every time we go to England we come back loaded with Wilko's stuff..

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Guest otchie1
We have a Wickes in Inverness, but if only we had a Wilko's, the nearest is near Newcastle, I think. My wife buys picture frames there and every time we go to England we come back loaded with Wilko's stuff..

They do mail order

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