suggs Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 Hi chaps started rebuilding my swivel and hub today, ive got it built up and fitted as far as the stub axle, now ive refitted the swivel housing and pins etc it seems a bit stiff to move, ive filled it with one shot but theres a fair bit of resistance when moving side to side by hand. obviously theres no steering bars or wheel fitted yet. its set with 2 shims and this was the same as when it came off, only thing thats changed apart from bearings etc in the new stub, i didnt try it before i removed the hub (doh) so cant compare it, looking at the haynes it says to use a fishing type scale and set the shims to take around 3.5-4.5 kg to move the swivel, before i go buy some scales is there another way.. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 That's the proper way to do it, with the swivel seal removed as well. When the fishing scales cost me less than a tenner, I couldn't find a reason not to do it properly, since it was all in bits anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM_110 Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 Don't try the Mark Evans 'A 4x4 Is Born' shortcut - Do it as ^^^ . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 the preload has to be set with the swivel seal removed. If you're one shot in it, I guess you have the seal on I bought a scales to do it, but to be honest, I found that if you just set to not freely moving and not completely stiff, it's fine, or has been on mine for the last 2 years any way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFamilyAus Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Gday Iam in the process of rebuilding both swivels on my 1994 300tdi defender and in my copy of the RAVE cd 3rd edition it says to set the preload between 1.16 to 1.46kg. Is this correct or a printing mistake?Should it be between 3.5-4.5 kg like snuggs posted? I also run oil lubed bearings with Maxidrive flanges so I want to get the preload correct cause I dont want 80/90 gear oil leaking out of the swivel housing seal.Was also thinking of removing the inner axle seal to allow the swivel housing to breathe when wading so it dosent suck in water when hot.But when on a slop or angle will the oil from the swivel drain back into the diff and leave the bearings/cv's without oil? Cheers Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Suggs doesn't say what type of LR he is working on, or more exactly, what style of swivel. From my notes, the figures he quotes are correct for a Series 3 fitted with a Railko top bearing and a steering damper. The figures are higher if no damper is fitted. Your figures are correct for a Defender with a roller (or ball?) bearing for the top pin. I can't answer your other questions, except to point out that if you leave the seal out, oil can migrate in both directions, depending on the direction of the slope. Thus one swivel will lose some oil, the other will gain some :-) HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suggs Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 im working on a 1992 200tdi 90 with a Railko top bearing with a damper. the figures i quoted are from a Haynes manual... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacFamilyAus Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Suggs doesn't say what type of LR he is working on, or more exactly, what style of swivel.From my notes, the figures he quotes are correct for a Series 3 fitted with a Railko top bearing and a steering damper. HTH I forgot about the Railko bearing setup.Thanks for the reply David I think I will leave the inner axle seal in for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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