cackshifter Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 My Defender has failed it's MOT; no surprise really except it was only on corrosion of chassis. I have 5 areas to deal with including the rear X-member and a bulkhead outrigger (both of which I'd hoped to get away with for the MOT). . However I have to patch some holes along the bottom of the chassis section, so thought I'd canvass opinion of what thickness steel that should be (ie what it started out as all those years ago).. Any ideas? I though 3mm would be Ok then though maybe that's a bit thin. Are outriggers worh repairing? (Its only gone a bit lacy round the hole in the bottom) Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 My Defender has failed it's MOT; no surprise really except it was only on corrosion of chassis. I have 5 areas to deal with including the rear X-member and a bulkhead outrigger (both of which I'd hoped to get away with for the MOT). . However I have to patch some holes along the bottom of the chassis section, so thought I'd canvass opinion of what thickness steel that should be (ie what it started out as all those years ago).. Any ideas? I though 3mm would be Ok then though maybe that's a bit thin. Are outriggers worh repairing? (Its only gone a bit lacy round the hole in the bottom)Nigel I think the original chassis was actually around 2.5mm. 3mm seems to be what most people opt for. Too thick and it'll be more difficult to weld to the original chassis. Currently doing my crossmemember and will do the outriggers at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 I think the original chassis was actually around 2.5mm. Well I'm not going to argue over .5mm (not in this context anyway) No wonder it develops colander-like tendencies. 3mm it is. It's a bit hard to find something that you might consider representative of original. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 My Defender has failed it's MOT; no surprise really except it was only on corrosion of chassis. I have 5 areas to deal with including the rear X-member and a bulkhead outrigger (both of which I'd hoped to get away with for the MOT). . However I have to patch some holes along the bottom of the chassis section, so thought I'd canvass opinion of what thickness steel that should be (ie what it started out as all those years ago).. Any ideas? I though 3mm would be Ok then though maybe that's a bit thin. Are outriggers worh repairing? (Its only gone a bit lacy round the hole in the bottom)Nigel 3 or 4 mm should be ok, I don't know what the original metal thickness would have been but I'd have thought 4mm or so. I'm sure someone on here will know and will be along to tell you soon. IMO there doesn't seem much point welding super thick metal on if the surrounding metal is thinner/weaker. It's all relative, the chassis will only ever be as strong as it's weakest point. As regards the outrigger, if the majority of it is OK then I'd repair it. To replace the bulkhead outrigger properly is a bulkhead off job. It's difficult, if not nigh on impossible, to get to the top of the new outrigger to properly weld it to the chassis with the bulkhead in situ. HTH. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Original was 2.1 or 2.2mm I think. 2.5mm is fine - except at stress points, where 3mm should be used. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 Thanks for the replies; I now know the range of size on which to start scrounging operations. Having been reading up on it, if you had to repair the bulkhead footwells (not that I'm saying I do have to, 'cause till I stop the door leaks it's a convenient drain, but I do have some repair sections) would that be the time to replace the outriggers? Can you truly get at the top easily with them missing? Incidentally why did LR leave that gap in the wheelarch liner in line with the tyre so that the salt and grit is splatted straight at the bulkhead (Ok,rhetorical question) Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM_110 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 I've made some internal mud-flaps for this hole from some old truck mudflaps, scrounged from a layby. Fitted using the two screws for the bulkhead - inner arch fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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