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Cooling a LT77 gearbox


kkk2

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Having trouble keeping my LT77s cool at the moment, last oilchange saw fluid completely burned and black in colour. Current box gave up the ghost over the weekend. I was thinking of adding a cooling system to my new gearbox, using a circulating pump, and an oil cooler piped into the gearbox, Has any one done this? Pumps I am looking at are:

My link pump 1

My linkPump 2

Any ideas /suggestions welcome thanks K

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Having trouble keeping my LT77s cool at the moment, last oilchange saw fluid completely burned and black in colour. Current box gave up the ghost over the weekend. I was thinking of adding a cooling system to my new gearbox, using a circulating pump, and an oil cooler piped into the gearbox, Has any one done this? Pumps I am looking at are:

My link pump 1

My linkPump 2

Any ideas /suggestions welcome thanks K

I can happily sort you out with an oil pump, cooler, ports and suitable hoses if you want to give me a call oe PM...

David

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Don't R380s have the option for an oil cooler? If they do, given the R380 is based on the LT77, surely the LT77 has the option too?

The R380 has a sort of external oil cooler bypass casting on the passenger side of the box - to fit a cooler you simply remove this bypass and put on a cooler take-off casting in its place ( I use one of these as a paper weight on the desk!! )

IIRC the LT77 does not have the same holes in the case to bypass or take a feed from.....

David

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I asked to Ashcrofts today if they could modify the lt77 for cooling and unfoutunately it cannot be done by them, the internal pump in a Lt77 would not cope with the extra work either as it is of fiberous composition. The only way I see is to tap in a couple of pipes and a cooler, tank and an external pump (12V) to run the system, I also intend to put a thermal switch on so the system will only come on at a given temp.

k

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Hi Red90, you are correct a thermostatic housing is fitted on V8 LT boxes but they use a designated back casting, this casting can be fitted onto the earlier LT77 but this will require remove and replace transmission. Non V8 back castings can sometimes be modified if they have all the lugs on the casting but by no means all. With the box already in the car the easiest solution is as David (Llama) suggests.

Regards Ian Ashcroft

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Just a few thoughts:

If the heat in the main box is not extreme, will one of the deeper, higher oil capacity sumps with cooling fins on the transfer box like those offered by Rocky Mountain help transfer the heat away? I'm thinking about putting one of these in to cool the transfer box and transmission little more to help keep my GKN OD cooler. These sumps would also be easier to tap an oil cooler and pump into than the main box and are also cheaper to replace if the tapping etc goes wrong. Wreck the casing of the gearbox and its a new box.... The downside with a cooling pump pump and cooler attached to the transfer box would be the viscosity of the EP90 (over ATF if pumping from the main box) i suppose, so the pump and cooler would have to be able to cope with this.

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I would suggest you change your oil to Redline synthetic, I have no connection with them other than as a satisfied customer .

I can tell you that TNT transport went to REdline in their road train diffs on the Perth to Darwin run , as they were having to replace all the oils every trip with normal oil as it was destroyed by the temps and load. They were doing analysis on the redline nad could detect no deteriation after 7 trips and the power divider temp was 60c cooler when climbing the darling scarp . HTSH

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Hi in principle i fully agree with using Red Line oil for better lubrication, but this is not the full story, be aware the syncro may be affected. The brass syncro cones grip the steel gear cone this grip may be less effective with the Red Line oil so don't panic if there is a change.

Regards Ian Ashcroft

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I've been using Redline MTL for years in the LT77. It is very specifically designed to replace ATF in manual gearboxes while providing better synchronizer performance. IMO, it does work better at making the synchros work and at a higher range of temperatures.

The reasoning as to why it should work better in the syncros is explained here: ttp://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/54.pdf It is specifically designed to have a high dynamic coefficient of friction and low static cof. This aids the synchros in working faster without collapsing the oil film.

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Hi Red90 thanks for the info sounds like a better product than I was aware, I was not aware of the dynamic properties, will bear it in mind for future. Obviously you understand my concern, there are lots of oils out there that do not exhibit this propety and they constantly throw up syncro problems. Thanks for the heads up. Ian Ashcroft.

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  • 7 years later...
On 15/10/2009 at 4:22 PM, ashtrans said:

Hi in principle i fully agree with using Red Line oil for better lubrication, but this is not the full story, be aware the syncro may be affected. The brass syncro cones grip the steel gear cone this grip may be less effective with the Red Line oil so don't panic if there is a change.

Regards Ian Ashcroft

Whilst we are resurrecting threads, may I add that I have found Mr Ashcrofts assertions to be true in this respect in cold weather.

Mo

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