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Overland trailer


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So a quick progress report:

I got the tyres fitted to the alloys today however and got a pair of wheel spacers from eBay however they were the posh type that centres the wheel and would not fit over the hub!!!! so need some more although the wheels look good on the trailer!!!

Next is to take the body off which will be tomorrow night or when it warms up, and now I have the tyre measurement I can get the body built the current plan had a 10 inch strut from the trailer chassis however this will need to be extended to 13 to accommodate the wheel and keep it legal, doing this I hit upon a stunning plan, make it 14 inches and I can fit two jerry cans side by side in the wheel lockers so 14 inches it will be.

so time to go to Mark 6 plan alter the drawings, change the cutting list and get it re-quoted again!!! I have also decided to drop the diagonal off the rear this will allow me to have a cover made to go over the trailer when storing it to keep the crud out.

I know it’s not a much but feel like I am starting to make progress.

Jason.

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Starting to get somewhere!!!!!! well it feels like it anyway

I think I have found someone to build the trailer just waiting for a price.

I have striped the tub off the trailer and started to strip it down, striped one of the hubs down and taken off the brakes, I found a Lucas part number on the pad so can get some new ones, the disks are fine but I may try and find a calliper rebuild kit and change the seals etc the brake pipes are in good shape but the flexible pipes are perished so they will need replacing, I may change the shocks as they are dinted I am not sure what type they are so I will take them off and try and see what they match up to.

Why is it the last connection the hardest one to remove it must have taken me an hour!!! angle grinder in the end!!!

It is one well built bit of kit it was really funny I thought I would have problems with the bolts and the swivel shackes would be easy but it was the other way round, typical.

I was not sure if I was going to strip the whole thing down but figured that as I have it upside down I should at least check it, and whilst I was checking replace everything!!! so guess I'm giving it a strip down and rebuild!! same thing happened with my series one!!!

Other hub off tomorrow, brakes strip down, electrical strip down, shocks off springs off and lubricated, everything else off and wire brushed down chassis wax oiled and painted, its like I have been here before..

Oh on Mark 6 of the plans which have slightly bigger wheel arches to allow for the alloys.

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hey, been keeping an eye on this. finished painting my sankey at the weekend, the photo isnt great, but you get the idea.

its not an overland sankey yet, but having a black chequer plated roof that folds in 2 places and roof/bike racks.

once done, will put more photos up of the tail gate, lid, wheels/spacers etc. should be in 2 weeks time i hope. (just need to fix the car then :S )

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Nice wheels, how did you fit them? what are you doing for a brake away cable?

Jason.

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thanks. they are 17inch predators (same as on my 90) with 265 BFG ATs and 30mm spacers. the spacers were very tight to hit over th hub, but using abit of force they went on ok (might not come off again tho :S)

and the wheels fit fine (although that might be due to they being 17, not 16)

brake away cable is just a chain connected to the bottom of the hand brake. simples, and seems to work.

think i need to get some mud guards for it tho...

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thanks. they are 17inch predators (same as on my 90) with 265 BFG ATs and 30mm spacers. the spacers were very tight to hit over th hub, but using abit of force they went on ok (might not come off again tho :S)

and the wheels fit fine (although that might be due to they being 17, not 16)

brake away cable is just a chain connected to the bottom of the hand brake. simples, and seems to work.

think i need to get some mud guards for it tho...

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I'm sticking with the standard boost alloys and 235/85/16 tyres, I had some spacers but they didn't fit (now for sale!!) I got some posh ones but the are to small as the centreing bit catches!!! so got to get some new ones, yes I think mud guards will be required, when I was looking to build mine there was a guy that built one he made some mud flaps by folding a 2 inch flap on some chequer plate then folding it to the same size as the wheel arch and attaching it, it did not look bad. I have just gone wider with the body. as my trailer is a MK3 I was just going to put a wire from the bottom of the brake, but was intrested in other ideas.

Cheers, Jason.

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i read somewhere recently the brake callipers on your trailer are ford scorpio rears.

Thanks, I know they are Ford something!!!!!!!! (it says so on the caliper) some people say they are from a KA and some from a Fiesta, I had not heard scorpio before, I will post a photo of the caliper also, as I need to buy a service kit to refurb them, there is a ford part number on them so I will search that, it would be good to get a definate answer, or the answer may be from all three!!! stranger things have happened than using parts from other cars on a new model!!!!!

Thanks for the info, Cheers, Jason.

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Flying nowbiggrin.gif

So have decided to strip the whole thing and rebuild everything, well I didn't really decide it just happened !!!!! I started to unbolt things from the chassis as had a couple of hours until we went out, the pile of stuff on the floor grew and the stuff left on the trailer decreased, I am becoming a Sankey M3 expert something I nether thought I would be.

Springs off

Brakes off

Lights off

Refelctors off

Tow hitch off

Hand brake cable/leaver off

Jockey wheel off

Anti roll bars off

Shocks off

Hubs off

I have just got to remove the check straps from the axel and get Mrs S to help me lift it off.

I am then going to get the flap disk on it and take all the paint off, was thinking of getting it galvanised (sometimes I really need to stop myself!!!) I then thought the whole idea of making the body modular is so if the chassis gets worn out I can replace it!!! so red oxide and then hammerite smoth in black to match to body and make it look less millatry!!! so a week or so of grinding/striping preping and painting should see it done.

I have brought some new spacers from eBay so hopfully they will fit, and thanks to a post on here (thanks forkrentfitter) it looks like the calipers are siera/scorpio rears, which are dirt cheap for new ones so may even consider getting shiny ones and not referbing the old ones but if I do I know what the seal kit will be so I am going to order one and take a look and then decide, my landy man will get it in and if its wrong then will just send it back.

other great thing is I went to a new shop in Reading today Clas Ohlson, they sell everyting and I got some of the great little bits that will help me finish the trailer so today was a GREAT DAY...

so to do this week is.......

  • Finish striping chassis
  • Prep and paint the chassis and parts.
  • rebuild the hubs
  • refurb brakes
  • replace shocks (90 rear shocks I think)
  • strip clean lube and rebuild leaf springs then paint
  • refit and grease everything!!!!
  • fit spacers and alloys

The whole thing will be ready for the body then and we can have some of the back garden back!!!! oh I still need to get rid of the tub and other bits so will list on ebay or otherwise it will be a trip to the scrap yard to weigh it in, which seems a shame but I guess that is life........

Jason.

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Yup, Clas Ohlsen is pretty immense.

They sell some thin black gloves with a fabric back and a rubbery palm for a couple of quid which are superb for general spannering and fixing.

Brought 5 pairs of @ £0.70 each bargin!!!!

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So if anyone ever wondered what MK3 "Sankey" (I know it was not made by Sankey!!!) looked like completely stripped down here you go....... again I went too far so am going to do a bare metal repaint which was not my intention, did it need it? No not really but whilst I am at it....... that's how the series one got rebuilt!!! I was only checking it and giving that a good service after the winter!!!

At this stage I must say two things about the "Sankey"

It is one well built bit of kit, mine is 18 years old and in great condition, same as a Landy really the back has more surface rust than the front, but where it differs is the box section is closed so no internal rust everything is a different size spanner!!! and it is heavy.

I think the stripped down chassis must weigh 100-150 KG's which is the second point, it is built to last and I have no doubt that it will have no problem coping with the punishment I have in mind for it, I found myself using the upper end of the socket set 22mm+

When I started this build there were a lot of people slating the Sankey trailer saying it was too heavy and not very well built. Well yes it is heavy, and if you are looking for an ultra light trailer it is not for you, but if you are looking for ultra light why take a trailer?? But well built it certainly is if anything went wrong it could be easily bodged/fixed on route although I doubt properly serviced you will be having much trouble anyway. In short for the money they are a stunning piece of kit a decent one can be picked up for around £200, and will far outlast the rubbish Chinese tin ones you see everyone towing. My advice would be if you need a trailer buy one whilst they are still loads on the market and they are cheap.

And if you don't need a trailer buy one anyway you won't regret it and you will get your money back no problem if you decide to sell it.

Cheers, Jason.

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Things are starting to move forward quickly now, I confirmed that the brake callipers as suggested above are from a Ford Scorpio I have ordered a new pair as the difference between that and a seal kit was only £20 I figure I can clean the old ones up a bit and sell them on eBay together with the other bits that are lying in a pile.

I got a great deal from the motor factors as he had old stock lying around so got a new set of callipers disks and pads with change out of £60 the pads did need changing but I could have probably just ground back the disks (I think it has been towed with the brake on!!), but I figured for that money it was not worth bothering with and I can again sell the old parts on eBay.

I have also ordered a pair of flexible brake pipes together with the replacement shocks (110 rear shocks and pipes)

Got the quote back for the welding and it is reasonable so going to go with it.

The new spacers have also arrived today and fit, I have also sold the four I don’t need so will have some money to pay for things.....

The electrical bits have started to arrive, I ordered some new LED rear lights they are a smart sealed unit again will help de militarise the trailer and I think will hold up better they arrived today and look do look really good. I will again hopefully recover some of the cash from selling the old ones.

I did some investigation and legally the trailer will require front and rear marker lights and a fog light as I have removed all the military lights and the body will be wider than the trailer I will need to add the marker lights to the body, I am in two minds as to whether I keep the original junction box or change it for a new unit there is a floor with the current box that the lid is easily broken and strapped under the trailer is venerable so whatever happens I will move it to a new position.

After over a year I really feel the end is in getting closer.

Cheers, Jason.

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Motoring on now, had the day off today so stripped the chassis down to bare metal, and then painted it a lovely shade of red oxide!!! it will have a coat of black (smoth) Hammerite but not for a few days, the big bit is done but I think the little bits will take hours to finish.....

I know I have missed a couple of bits, after tea I am going to turn it over and paint the other side...

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i can highly recomend a rubbolite junction box for your wiring,used loads of them in the past,commercial vehicle motor factors stock them.keep up the good work.

Thanks, I have looked at the rubbolite ones, the one on at the moment is a rubbolite one but the lid screws plastic lugs and really don't look up to much, I'm sure turning them the wrong way will result in me applying tape to the cover!!!!

I did like the little rubbolite ones so I think I will go for them Putting one at front/back to save on running the 4kms of wire I pulled off the trailer!!!

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http://www.truckelectrics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=109_94&products_id=442

This type of juntion box does not have any screws to break off , and will last years under a trailer as I used them when building trailers in OZ , the inlets can be cut to suit 8 core heavy insulated cable as well as little as two core and use cable ties to seal onto smaller diameter cables. Best to place any rubber/plastic components in shade as high levels of UV kills them . HTSH

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http://www.truckelec...products_id=442

This type of juntion box does not have any screws to break off , and will last years under a trailer as I used them when building trailers in OZ , the inlets can be cut to suit 8 core heavy insulated cable as well as little as two core and use cable ties to seal onto smaller diameter cables. Best to place any rubber/plastic components in shade as high levels of UV kills them . HTSH

Cheers, there the ones I had my eye on I have decide to fit one at the front and one at the back so will only run one cable between and take everything off each as I need to add marker lights etc, going for LED lights all round including the marker lights as I think these will be toughter than bulbs and I will have less problems in the future.

Jason.

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try and run cables inside steel pipe to protect, and support any connectors by cable tieing to metal brackets , as vibration is killer, good choice on going led light route, also flashers being led on trailer will not really affect flas rate on tow vehicle, but may not operate tell tale .

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try and run cables inside steel pipe to protect, and support any connectors by cable tieing to metal brackets , as vibration is killer, good choice on going led light route, also flashers being led on trailer will not really affect flas rate on tow vehicle, but may not operate tell tale .

Cheers the Sankey has a cable route/tray (see below) so I am going to use that, where the cable goes through the chassis there are rubber gromets the brake lines also follow that route so it's fairly protected, the only issue before was that every light was wired back to the junction box so IMHO over complicated the whole thing six cables from the back to the box at the front!!!

I will wire all the rear light (Rear clusters, Marker lights, Fog light, and Number plate light) back to one of the rubbolite boxes and then run a single 7 core cable to a box at the front which will support the front marker lights from that box I will also run the hook up cable, I plan to make a plate to cover the A frame area so will mount this second box under there as it will be well protected but will also make a metal cover to protect it.

However I have planned to do this a little diffrently instead of having a lead going straight to the socket which can get easily damaged, I plan to wire it to a metal female socket near the hitch and then make a male to male lead (again metal plugs)

I wired up the lights to see if I needed a resister or anything and it was fine and the tell tale worked fine, so lucky there..

Cheers for the feedback though, the Ideas I have had from here have really helped me make choices about the build.

Jason.

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A very productive weekend, I have been working hard with the paint brush and black paint, have coated 2/3 of it now, I need to turn it over and do the other side and the bits in the middle. I have decided that bits like the load rings and any locking bits will get a coat of red paint to remind me where they are and that they need fastening.

The best news is that after months I have finally agreed with someone to build the body and cut the panel’s materials have been ordered and it will start on Friday and will take about a week YEA.... (oh thanks SiWhite for the recommendation) the job is not complicated but people wanted a lot of money to do it, and by that I mean a lot, when I did find someone the first time around, he won a big contract and could not fit it in for months I then found someone else who then went into receivership just after Christmas, luckily I had not given him any money!!

All of the brake components have arrived (Callipers Disks & Pads), as well as the new shocks and bushes for the springs which were a bargain. I have ordered the new flexible hoses which I have had to get made as they are 500mm long.

I have a pile of bare metal components on the workshop floor with about ½ a ton of old striped off NATO paint!! Everything will get a coat of red oxide and then a coat of Hammerite smooth black before I reassemble.

I hope to get it all done this week (work allowing) and will start with rear legs and jockey wheel I will build the whole the axel/springs and anti roll bar in one and by lifting the trailer on the rear legs it should allow me to role the whole unit under the trailer and lower it onto the mountings, or that’s the plan. Big meeting at work tomorrow morning though so it could go either way!!!

Cheers, Jason.

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Looking good.

Have you considered stonechip protector for high impact areas underneath? I'm thinking the chassis, arches, and underside of the body rear of the trailer wheels to prevent damage from spray/stones etc? I'm going to fit some mudflaps as well, made from some old conveyor belt. Need to get some on the truck as well!

I'm applying that to mine next week before a good coating of waxoyl for the whole of the underside. Cheap enough to do at the moment.

I made some light guards as well, they are at the powder coaters right now. Would be good for protecting your LED lights.

Looking forward to seeing it progress.

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Looking good.

Have you considered stonechip protector for high impact areas underneath? I'm thinking the chassis, arches, and underside of the body rear of the trailer wheels to prevent damage from spray/stones etc? I'm going to fit some mudflaps as well, made from some old conveyor belt. Need to get some on the truck as well!

I'm applying that to mine next week before a good coating of waxoyl for the whole of the underside. Cheap enough to do at the moment.

I made some light guards as well, they are at the powder coaters right now. Would be good for protecting your LED lights.

Looking forward to seeing it progress.

Thanks, I had not thought about stone chip protector, I just went for Hammerite smooth for the chassis which is pretty tough paint, but will look into the stone chip protector especially for the wheel arches I am going to spray the body of the trailer in Java Black (same as Landy). It will be sporting mud flaps just not sure where/how I will fix them yet I will wait for the body to be built before I figure out the best place for them.

The LED units I have are smaller than the original units and fit under the triangle light guards and are only 22mm thick so will be well protected there, so don’t think I will need light guards but will probably be corrected there later!! Hmm I may weld a bar/hoop at the bottom to protect the base of the light, more work!!!

Cheers, Jason.

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Hi Jason, i have made several trailers in the past and i agree with most of your build so far, a couple of things i would like you to consider would be a decent hitch with a lock built in, (i have a 2500kg one floating about if your interested) also i prefer the electrics from vehicle to trailer to be on a seperate cable, i used tractor unit lorry coiled suzi cable conected to plastic female conectors as the metal ones corrode quite badly, also the removal of the suzi when parked also acts as a theft deterant as the trailer will have no lights when cable removed.

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