mudmagnet Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 i want to remove the abs from my 300 auto and put a standard system in like i have in my other 300 auto the reason is that when out laning the abs is always coming on even when only lightly braking at 5 mph and the abs unit is in the way for fitting a snorkel and twin batteries is it just the case of getting a standard system off a donor car or is more work involved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 or is more work involved I'd guess you should add "talking to your insurer" to the list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 i want to remove the abs from my 300 auto and put a standard system in like i have in my other 300 auto the reason is that when out laning the abs is always coming on even when only lightly braking at 5 mph and the abs unit is in the way for fitting a snorkel and twin batteries is it just the case of getting a standard system off a donor car or is more work involved You could of course just pull the fuse for your green laning trips and put it back for on-road use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 You could of course just pull the fuse for your green laning trips and put it back for on-road use. Wouldn't that disable the assistance as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Wouldn't that disable the assistance as well? No, it justs means the abs won't work. It'll just be like driving the same model of car but one without the abs option fitted. No different to driving a car with faulty abs, the brakes still work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Hmm, well if you pull the ABS fuse on an RRC you stop running the assistance pump, and I know this same system (Wabco) was used on Discos... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Hmm, well if you pull the ABS fuse on an RRC you stop running the assistance pump, and I know this same system (Wabco) was used on Discos... Don't know anything about range rovers I'm afraid. I have a disco with abs and when I had a faulty sensor causing problems I pulled the fuse until I got it sorted, the brakes just worked as normal but without the abs assistance which I never needed anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 i will try pulling the fuse next time i go to a pay and play site see how it feels i know of a few who have removed abs but not on a disco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 assistance pump! whats that ? ABS Modulator Block. As said just pull the ABS ECU fuse either disco or RRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 The brake booster/accumulator setup? i.e. to replace the servo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 The brake booster/accumulator setup? i.e. to replace the servo. Under normal brake operation ie when the abs ecu detects no abs assisstance is required the brakes operate as any other car without abs. The brake servo operates to provide braking assistance and has nothing to do with an abs system. The brake servo operates in exactly the same way whether abs is operating or not. Under normal braking conditions ie with servo assistance the abs modulator valves are all in the open position ie the master cylinder is connected hydraulically to each wheel caliper assembly independently. If the abs ecu detects wheel slip it shuts the modulator valve serving that caliper and by operation of the modulator pump reduces hydraulic pressure in that caliper. If the abs ecu then detects the wheel is providing grip again it re-opens the closed valves and re-applies hydraulic pressure using the modulator pump as the pressure source. Each wheel operates independently at all times through out this sequence. The pulsing of pressure to each wheel caliper can occur up to about 20 times per second to each wheel individually. Throughout this sequence other wheels can simply be braking as they do at any other time or any-one or all can be operating in an abs induced manner depending on circumstances. The abs modulator pump is there to provide pressure assistance at times of abs operation it does not in any way substitute for the brake servo which continues to operate as normal abs or not. On switching on the ignition of an abs equipped car the abs ecu runs a diagnostic check of the system and if for any reason a fault is detected the ecu disables the abs system and indicates this by way of the famous abs warning light. In this condition the cars brakes will operate as a non abs equipped car, it simply won't have an operating abs system. Pulling the main fuse for the abs system replicates the disabled situation. Obviously if you present a car for an mot with the abs system not functioning your car will fail. If you wish to remove the abs system from the car there's nothing to stop you doing it. This particularly applies to an older car where because of the cost of abs components should they require replacing it's not such a bad idea. Removing the system really only requires pulling the main fuse, removing the modulator block and doing a bit of plumbing to the brake pipes around the prv to connect everything back up. Also removing/ disconnecting the wheel sensors and possibly the wheel sensor rings on the back wheels. I'm advised by my mot man that this would be acceptable - I'll let you make your own enquires. Hope this helps a bit, it's the basics of abs although some systems have other operating modes added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 The brake booster pump/accumulator (aka bomb) setup *DOES* replace the servo on Wabco setup.  This is the pump: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=50897 This is the bomb: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/braketc/accumulator.html This is the part I would be worried about accidentally disabling should you pull *a* fuse, especially as it will give you maybe 4-5 pedal presses with assistance to lull you into a false sense of security, then you head off down a hill and find you can't stop the 2-ton truck even with the handbrake. If there are two fuses, one for ABS ECU and one for the pump, FGS just make sure you get the right one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 The brake booster pump/accumulator (aka bomb) setup *DOES* replace the servo on Wabco setup.  This is the pump: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=50897 This is the bomb: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/braketc/accumulator.html This is the part I would be worried about accidentally disabling should you pull *a* fuse, especially as it will give you maybe 4-5 pedal presses with assistance to lull you into a false sense of security, then you head off down a hill and find you can't stop the 2-ton truck even with the handbrake. If there are two fuses, one for ABS ECU and one for the pump, FGS just make sure you get the right one! Interesting, buts thats not the abs system that's on my 300tdi Disco, no tc either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 That's right, you shouldn't be worried about disabling anything (electrical) on the Discovery ABS because the system is different from the one on the RRC. There's no accumulator, no special procedure when replacing the brake fluid or bleeding the system etc. You can pull any fuse you want on the Discovery or the battery and all the the electrical bits altogether and the brake will work perfectly (without ABS that is). Pulling the fuse is the way I'd recommend too. You can have both a snorkel and a 2nd battery without removing the ABS Pump and valve block, so why bother removing ABS? Bowie69, WABCO is not an ABS system setup, it's the name of the manufacturer. The way you put it, it sounds like saying LR (just another manufacturer name) makes only one type of vehicle. At least this is how I read in your posts, sorry if I misunderstood something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Â Bowie69, WABCO is not an ABS system setup, it's the name of the manufacturer. The way you put it, it sounds like saying LR (just another manufacturer name) makes only one type of vehicle. At least this is how I read in your posts, sorry if I misunderstood something. No, I understand that, I'm sure I had seen an almost identical setup to the RRC on a Disco and *if* they were the same setup I was just trying to caution the OP about puling fuses out of the system and finding no brakes Hope confusion has all gone now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStu Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I've just done this! Yes, you will need some bits off the donor - mainly brake pipes. You could always make new ones of course. I put a new body on my truck - the new body had an ABS unit on the NS inner wing. Remove the abs unit and brake pipes to the approproate unions. I transferred the whole servo and clutch unit from the old body into the new body (Because I also needed the clutch master cyl), transfer the brake pipes and run them to the unions. Bleed up and test. Obviously I skipped all the bits about corroded unions, non matching parts and everthing else that makes a simple job a pain in the bum! Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudmagnet Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 thanks for all the replys ill try the fuse first maybe remove it later will see what my mot station says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebiglad Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 By far the easiest way to disable the ABS facility of your Disco braking system is to unplug the electrical connector on top of the ABS modulator on the passenger side of the engine bay. No error lights, no loss of braking power and it's easy to access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkjorlie Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 I've been fighting with my '96 Discovery brakes since I got it last year. Just won't stop on a dime and always just a little spongy even after having all four rotors, pads and calipers replaced. Will disabling the ABS help that? I only use it on the road anyway but I could always put the fuse back in when the snow flies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Firstly, I don't think you should have a problem with your insurance company by removing the ABS as they were optional extras when the car was ordered, they were not a standard fitting. I removed mine with no hassles, along with the airbags (another optional extra accessory). It's easy enough to do, made even easier if you can go to a wrecker and buy the five standard Discovery brake lines, if not you are going to have to either form them up yourself with a 1/4" hand tube bender and a double flaring tool, the other option is to get some stiff fencing wire and shape them and then get your local brake mechanic to make them up for you. There are 5 tubes in all, two go from the master cylinder to the Pressure Reduction Valve, (PCV) and three go from the PCV to each of the two front wheels and one to the two rears. The tube on the master cylinder nearest to the bulkhead goes to the rear of the two ports on the underside of the PCV (nearest to the capped adjuster) the second from the master cylinder goes to the rear of these two. There are three ports on the top of the PCV, the first two go to each of the front wheels, the rear (furthest away from the capped adjuster) goes to the rear wheels. As for the ABS sensors in all the four wheels, just cut the cables off at the wheel and remove the rest of the loom, next time you have to replace the front wheel bearings install the non-ABS "king pins" in lieu of the ABS type. I left one of the rear castellated wheel hubs in, ground down all but six of the castellations and I use it to drive my Terratrip. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 The pipe is 3/16" not 1/4", very easy to form by hand. If in any doubt though, a mechanic does this all day long, and will be quick and cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Your're right they are imperial 3/16" steel hydraulic lines or if you're an ex-refrigeration mechanic (I did dabble in this for some time when I was unemployed) a 1/4" refrigeration bender will do it quite nicely, anyway that's what I used on all of mine and I never had a single kink. The trick is in the double flare, you need to use a good flare kit that has a good pipe vice, I had to clamp mine in the bench vise to get it to hold the pipe securely while I was doing the double flares - and don't as I did on one pipe, forget to slide the nut on first AND facing the right way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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