bleyseng Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Hi. 1995 300 TDI. Got the instrument panel stripped out to check the heater controls. Fixed the air distribution switch side, but not sure how to tackle the blower switch. I have checked that it has a good ground. I cant read any voltage at the switch at either of the green/white or green/yell wires. Have checked for blown fuses but there are none. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=33481&st=0&gopid=323899entry323899 have read of the link above, it's how I reset the heater flap control cables, it should get you sorted. heater wiring diagram for 300tdi vehicle below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleyseng Posted January 16, 2010 Author Share Posted January 16, 2010 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=33481&st=0&gopid=323899entry323899 have read of the link above, it's how I reset the heater flap control cables, it should get you sorted. heater wiring diagram for 300tdi vehicle below Hi western. I have read your article. It was what made me get on and investigate the heating system. I have also studied and understood the wiring diagram. This forum is great. (It will be when you mods let me post freely anyhow! My heater flaps work fine, and all cables work as they should. The 60 amp fuse in the engine bay checks out fine as does fuse 5 (15 amp) in the cab. I have traced the green/purple 12v feed to the heaterbox, and it shows 12v with ign on where it enters the heaterbox. With ign on and the blower switch lever right down the fan does not turn on. I dont know how to test the blower switch. Basically, im only getting hot air when im moving at speed. Nothing at stationary. 1/Should i be able to hear the fan come on? 2/If it doesnt come on do i now assume that the blower fan is shagged? 3/Is it a bit of a mission to remove and service the blower fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 1/Should i be able to hear the fan come on? YES 2/If it doesnt come on do i now assume that the blower fan is shagged? remove the air intake grille & you should be able to reach the fan & turn it by hand, if free to turn, it should be OK, if stiff or not movable, probably a dead motor. 3/Is it a bit of a mission to remove and service the blower fan? a bit of a job, disconnect hoses, remove intake grille & air duct, remove 2 bolts top of heater box to bulkhead [engine bay side], remove mat above passengers footwell,remove 2 bolts & nuts [in engine bay] bottom of heater box,to access motor, drill out the rivets sounds like the resistor is dead, it lives under the small rectangular rivetted on panel where the wires go in. (It will be when you mods let me post freely anyhow sorted now, so your post above is readable straight away as will all subsequent posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleyseng Posted January 16, 2010 Author Share Posted January 16, 2010 1/Should i be able to hear the fan come on? YES 2/If it doesnt come on do i now assume that the blower fan is shagged? remove the air intake grille & you should be able to reach the fan & turn it by hand, if free to turn, it should be OK, if stiff or not movable, probably a dead motor. 3/Is it a bit of a mission to remove and service the blower fan? a bit of a job, disconnect hoses, remove intake grille & air duct, remove 2 bolts top of heater box to bulkhead [engine bay side], remove mat above passengers footwell,remove 2 bolts & nuts [in engine bay] bottom of heater box,to access motor, drill out the rivets sounds like the resistor is dead, it lives under the small rectangular rivetted on panel where the wires go in. sorted now, so your post above is readable straight away as will all subsequent posts. Way hayy...!! I was reading in the tech articles section about an upgrade using a potentiometer you can buy on ebay. If the motor moves freely would this upgrade, which has a built in resistor, negate the need to strip the blower motor. Could i wire it in without dismantling it do you think? Thanks for all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 if you know the motor runs OK & does what it's meant to, can't see a problem, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ByCamelToVietnam Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 hi, my blower has stopped working also and just wondering can you drive without the whole matrix? was thinking about taking it out today and fixing it this week. Would i have to block the cooling hoses going in? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 disconnect the 2 hoses from the heater, now you have 2 options 1. use a bit of suitable pipe to join them together 2. remove the hoses from cylinder head & fit the 2nd hose [free end] to the cylinder head stub pipe, system will circulate the coolant but have no heater function, I did this when my matrix split a few years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macclad Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 I,m a proper numpty when it comes to auto electrics, blower switch not working, fan spins freely but it looks like i only get 3v at the lever switch on either of the 2 green wires, thought it would be easy to change to a 2 speed rotary knob. any ideas. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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