cjmt Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Hi All, I'm debating the next vehicle. I'm permanently horrified by the expense and sillyness that is keeping new electickery powered diesels from self destructing so I've been looking at prices of very late 300TDi 90 vans - seems to be about 4.5K. Most of them seem to have rotting rear cross members and or bulkheads though. Am I just looking at duff Defenders or are they really all starting to rot by this age? I'd really like to get a few years pretty much hassle free motoring for that sort of money, or am I being unrealistic??? Many thanks for peoples thought, Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 ...I'd really like to get a few years pretty much hassle free motoring... I think you meant to post this in the Jap forum right?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 I think you meant to post this in the Jap forum right?! I did say pretty much hastle free, rather than hastle free! I'm very fond of my 96 Discovery and dont object too much to the non working windows, door locks, heater blowers, etc, but I'm becoming progressively less fond of the propensity of major body components to turn to red powder... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave K Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Regrettably most Land Rovers bio-degrade quite well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 Regrettably most Land Rovers bio-degrade quite well How depressing - I suspect I cant afford a good one then At what age would one qualify as likely to be pretty much not rusty? It seems like you pick somthing that wont be rusty but will cost a fortune to fix when it breaks or buy somthing rusty that is cheep to fix that is beyond my welding capabilities to keep on the road.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 I would say anything over 10 years old would have potential rust problems. Bear in mind the latest 300Tdi is now 13 odd years old, none of them are going to be non-rusty. Td5s had thinner rear crossmembers so rot out even quicker (I've seen a 2004 110 with holes all over the rear crossmember ). If you can find an earlier 300Tdi or 200Tdi one that's had the chassis replaced with a shiny galv one then that's probably your best bet for a rust-free life. Aside from the bulkhead, axles, cappings and doors of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defender 300Tdi Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Having owned a Series III and new Puma 110 in recent years, I decided that I still had the Defender itch. I wanted to go the 300Tdi route too, but also with the aim of keeping this vehicle long term. They do seem hard to find in decent condition. In the end, I paid a little more than you suggest for one rebuilt on a galvanised Richards chassis and with a very sound bulkhead. Although rather tatty inside and needing work on the doors, I think that I've got something rather good. My view was that the 'small' jobs needed would not be as stressful and depressing as endlessly discovering more and more rot. Regarding rust, pop into a showroom and have a peek under a new Puma - it won't take you long to find some from my experience! Take your time and search out one where the chassis has been recently repaired well already maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 I would say anything over 10 years old would have potential rust problems. Bear in mind the latest 300Tdi is now 13 odd years old, none of them are going to be non-rusty. Td5s had thinner rear crossmembers so rot out even quicker (I've seen a 2004 110 with holes all over the rear crossmember ). If you can find an earlier 300Tdi or 200Tdi one that's had the chassis replaced with a shiny galv one then that's probably your best bet for a rust-free life. Aside from the bulkhead, axles, cappings and doors of course I think that might be the best bet failing a all but new TD5 or somthing of the Jap persuasion that can be had for less dosh , but cant see that happening for a little bit Thank you all for the ususal sage words Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reads90 Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 I have a late 300 tdi 98 model I have not rust at all on mine. So they do t all rust just depends where they live I still have the black paint on the chassis that land rover put there And it does get driven on the beach too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natas Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 1999 300tdi truck cab. Chassis is fine except for the rear srossmember that was just replaced. Bulkhead is perfect, no rust at all. Body however is full of corrosion, I will soon be getting a re spray. Love it and wouldnt have anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve King Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 There are good 330TDI's around you have just got to be patient! My old 300TDI had a good bulkhead and chassis - the rear x member having been replaced by Les a couple of years ago. Keep looking or maybe even find a small specialist to build you one using a galv chassis... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 Thanks all. Do I take it that a rusting cross member doesnt have to mean a rusting chassis generally then?? BTW, to the Aussie contingent - showing off your climate to people from Northumbeland may be considered by some to be unkind ;-) Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natas Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Thanks all. Do I take it that a rusting cross member doesnt have to mean a rusting chassis generally then?? BTW, to the Aussie contingent - showing off your climate to people from Northumbeland may be considered by some to be unkind ;-) Charlie Bahamas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reads90 Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Bahamas. LOL See you I raise you :-) Brisbane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 Bahamas. To the contingent from the southern hemisphere, I'd just like to point out that whilst you may have beautiful climates and rust free Defenders you also have a miriad of stingy and bitey things, I certainly dont envy you the Australian Landrover Spider! In any case I like having to wear cords and/or tweed in August, or at least thats my story and I'm sticking to it! Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Just recently replaced the rear crossmember on a '97 90, and the chassis apart from that isn't too bad, but it was much rustier inside than out, so anyone with nice black paint on the outside, be careful the paint isn't structural. I also have a '97 110 and the chassis was much worse, a dustpan and brush job. Richards reckon 95 onwards the chassis rust much worse because of some change in steel supplier. Might have something to do with the one coat of primer like milk too. I have a friend with a 2002 110 and the crossmember is just starting to show signs. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy V8 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 mine is an 89 110.still on it's original chassis and hasn't been welded at all.just depends really .some are good and some rot out pretty quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.B.ASH Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Yep, I have a 1986 ex-mod 90, the chassis has had no welding, and needs none, I have owned it for about 10 months now, it cost me £1500. When I went to look at it I got underneath with a hammer and checked the whole thing, it was/is solid. Since I bought it I have had to spend £450 sorting the gear box, about £70 on new rear shocks and misc gaskets, and about a week of my own time repainting the body/axels and waxoyling the chassis, the guy that had it before had swapped the engine over for a 200tdi which pulls like a trooper. All in all its cost just over £2000 for a 90 in great condition, even though its 25 years old. I looked around for a while before I found this one, they are out there you just have to look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmt Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 Thanks guys. I suppose I just need to look for a while Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 my 96 hardtop is on a galv chassis - and is up for sale at the right price.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonmlb748 Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 my 1989 chassis is perfect .I can still see the original stamp marks from production ,but I've owned it for several years and before that it was in Valencia area..we don't do salt on the roads here,the climate is a lot kinder on all vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 I have a 1998 90" which i have had since it was 3 years old, i have abused the hell out of it from the day i bought it, work and play and the chassis is 100% perfect (apart from the odd bend ) My friend had a 1998 one from new and it's chassis was virtually gone by the time it was out of warranty! So just look around, they are out there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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