JeffR Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 (edited) Due to unforeseen problems (bloody electrolytic corrosion if you want the truth) I am gonna have to replace the load area floor in my 110. Now it is held in place by steel Pins (part No 79283) and collars (part no 79289), now for the love of me I cant figure out how the hell you take these things apart. They appear to be 6mm in diameter, so rather than replacing like for like, I was contemplating using stainless M5 button heads (and a suitable isolating washer), that is, if , I can get the "pins" out... The floor pan is rippled and lumpy, so just riveting a cover plate over is not really an option as that will just hide the problem. Can I just grind these little buggers off and tap the remains out with a drift? The crossmembers and top hat sections are fine ( ), it's just the bloody floor plate thats gone around the seat belt mounts :angry2: , beginning to wish I'd never lifted the carpets now! Any alternative suggestions would be very well received..... Also , just how do you fit these pins as the pin appears threaded, yet the collar is not? Edited October 20, 2011 by JeffR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris200100 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I've just replaced my load floor all I did was drill every spot weld, rivet, etc hold the floor down and lifted the whole floor out. I had to replace all the supports under the floor I got the shorter ones and front to back ones from YRM and the longer one under the seats a genuine LR part and had it glavanised. I made the new floor from two 1x1 metre ally sheet that I had for £30 and riveted in I got a pic of the finish floor that I can e-mail you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 the pins 79283 look similar to huck bolts to me picture here & the collars 79289 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 They need a special tool to fit them don't they? They are like rivets on steroids ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 how to remove them in this link http://forums.aths.org/instantforum2010/Topic96386.aspx fitting tools on the huck bolt link above, pneumatic or hydraulic operation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Cheers chaps. Looks like I'll be replacing only the knackered section and using M5 bolts! As the corrosion is very localised, I think that for this winter, I'll get away with a cosmetic plate over and replace the seat belt mounts with new ones as the crossmember underneath is solid. I really am beginning to hate this vehicle with a passion that is undescribable. I only found this heap of trouble when I repaired one body capping, replaced another and tidied up the wheel arch boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 Well what started as a minor job has kinda got out of hand. Got the floor out in front of the rear seats and am in the process of rebuilding the floor corners. Oh and whilst I am rabbiting, man those huckbolt things are bloody hard! Took the tip off a cobalt drill removing three of them. Angle grinder is a much better option. Now another quick question, should there be a gap between the body outrigger (you know the bugger that rots out on station wagons and the heelboard, or should there be shims in place. Hope the photo helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 item 13 qty 10 on page 837 but only at the outer ends to the sideframe brackets, had a look at my CSW but as that cross member was replaced a while ago, it's tight to the rear of the heelboard & no shims visible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 Cheers mate, gonna shim it out anyway, one less gap to fill up with crud. Never mind by the time I'm finished, the rear tub will be stronger than when it left the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehaze Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Mine had shims in when I stripped it down, so I put them back when I rebuilt the back. I used 3mm chequer and angle to reconstruct the rear. Originally I bolted it back in using 6mm bolts but have started replacing them with rivets as they make a stronger fixing (some of the bolts have started to loosen off). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 When I asked if there were shims between the body and the plates on the rear crossmember I was given a great tip which was to cut up margarine tubs to make them. Only trouble is we only use best English butter which comes in foil packs and thats no ruddy use. So I cut up a bike innertube, which gets thinner as you stretch it so you can wiggle it in [FNAR FNAR] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Well, having spent all of today fabricating the passenger side toe board corners, and removing half a hundredweight of chalk slurry from the various crossmembers, I am about as p*ssed off with landrovers as it is humanly possible to get. Shims are about the last thing on my mind at the mo, but I suppose I'll nock some up out of 2mm plate later on this evening, after I've cut a new floor pan and riveted the top hat section in place and worked out how fix the bloody thing in place, the phrase " shove a broomshank up my butt and I'll sweep the floor as I go around " springs to mind. And to top it all, the MOT has run out........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Well, thats the load area floor out, pressure washer did not shift the chalk slurry out of the crossmembers whatsoever. Now at the Fred Flintstone stage: Thought I would add a pic showing what happens when chalk and aluminium spend a lot of time together: The really interesting bit was finding that the top hat sections were attached to the floor by 6 (YES!) spot welds per side, most of which had dissolved....... Forgot to add the spot welds wer only at the ends, there were none in the middle. So the moral is that if you use your vehicle in chalky areas make sure you pressure wash the bugger to death, specifically the front and rear floor crossmembers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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