bobtail84 Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Erm the Msq would be useful.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Well, for starters, it appears that your throttle position sensor isn't working - It's listed as 0 all the way through the log. Should be about 10-15 minimum, up to 85-90 at WOT. That won't affect steady state running, but will make a huge difference as soon as you stomp on the gas (or let off). And it seems that your idle valve has a little too much influence - disconnect it and blank it off for the moment. What are your EGO settings like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 MSQ is Nige's standard for 3.9 Serp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Are you certain you're using the right one? You still need to sort the non-working throttle sensor, and blank off the idle valve. Once you've got it idling at 850rpm (ish) we can go from there. (I'll add that when I installed mine, I had problems with the EDIS unit. Eventually traced it to incorrect settings in the MSQ - but I could have sworn that I was using the basic one that Nige had sent me.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtail84 Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 What caused the re-sets? Is this just idle? Is father christmas real? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 no idea, just idle, I hope so EDIT: added EGO settings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 And also your CLT Senspr (Coolant) has not got to 72 degress so is enriched ? TPS Also Resets also Just from a swift peek Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 don't think I had enough fuel left to actually make it to 72degrees! TPS I will swap Resets worry me a bit, I'm guessing there could be a vast variety of reasons for them, and with no indication of where to start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 I did calibrate the TPS, and it does run from 0% to 100% depending on where the old right boot is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 One thought that crossed my mind - if there's an air leak or the idle air valve is letting too much past then you're trying to get a stable idle in the driving bit of the map rather than in the bottom left corner of the map. Also you want to raise your "EGO active above" to about 1500rpm, there's no need to have it kick in at 1000 and it won't help with idling. In fact, when sorting out basic problems like this it's best to set the authority to 0% for things like that so you eliminate it from the possibilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 Got the TPS working, turned the EGO down to 0% control and have disconnected the PWM valve, seems a lot better, plugs are not as fouled up. It also doesn't smell as rich. There are not any obvious air leaks around the plenum or air inlet. It does hunt around a bit at idle still, and the Fidle in the bottom corner of megatune is flicking on and off - which I assume it shouldn't? Any guidance on the next course of action? I have datalogged the engine with the situation as above if it's any use as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Datalogs are always helpful, along with the MSQ file. A shot of your idle setup would be handy just to check, it's different if you're running PWM/closed-loop or just an on/off valve but hopefully all blanked off it shouldn't be affecting your idle. You should be able to get a V8 to start, run, and idle happily without any idle air valve. If you have it set as below, the FIDLE light will be lit until the coolant hits 50deg and then it should go out and pretty much stay out. Just to give an idea of what "situation normal" should look like, here's a log of mine idling: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 Useful stuff, cheers FF. I have found though that plug #8 is wet and not black like the rest pointing at a problem on that cylinder. I have swapped the plug lead for another new one, swapped spark plug and injector but no sign of any change. I will try testing the injector wires, but can't see that being the issue tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Plug the cable into a spare injector and hold it. Fire it up. You'll know if the injector is working - it's quite a 'clack'/'clunk' if you've got it in your hand. That should prove/disprove the wiring up to that injector. You can also do similar with a spare spark plug - but G-clamp it to something grounded (don't want to be holding that one!). EDIS has an enormous bright blue spark - you won't miss it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Change spark plug and do wd40 test As engine had not run for some time injector could Be stuck open Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Oh - on the pwm settings you don't want on off war up you want closed loop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Oh - on the pwm settings you don't want on off war up you want closed loop He's been advised to switch off closed loop to disable the idle valve Although personally, I'd just unplug it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 NO - Its POWERED Off, so Physically remove it as Mr Engineer says and then shove a solid rod of steel wood etc into the 2 ends of the 2 x hoses Engines that have not run for some time can have a varnish on the injectors, this can make some stick - others clean up s engine is used, to clean the injectors (WARNING IF YOU CATCH FIRE BURN OR KILL YOURSELF WARNING - ) get a large glass jar add 1/5 of high octane petrol, and 2 x bottles of forte engine cleaner note FORTE INJECTOR cleaner nothing else is as good, then shove your Fuel pump into the mixture and your return pipe, start engine and keep at say 2000 rpm till all the contents is gone, its a cheap and effective way to clean the injection system, to be seruiously effective the mix should be super strong and high octane to help Plugs can fire when G Clamped to a surface, but fail under compression / heat / load / fuelled NGK BP6RES are your friend, soiled / wet / misfires eats plugs Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Plugs can fire when G Clamped to a surface, but fail under compression / heat / load / fuelled NGK BP6RES are your friend, soiled / wet / misfires eats plugs Ah yes, forgot about that. Had one like that once - worked great in open air. Failed when fitted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 *embarassed smiley* so I built up a little loom to check the integrity of the injector wires, listened to the one that was looking faulty, and no click, then checked it with it's powered pair and that to, was not opening. So I thought to check the power board one last time before tearing open the loom - low and behold buried under the bundle of power wires was one injector power cable that had worked it's way out of the clamp - refitted it and the tune of 8cyls was there - so hopefully that's the misfire cured! I have now run out of petrol so off to get some before compiling a new data log. I have fitted some nice corks into the open ends where the PWM hoses were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road Toad Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 I have now run out of petrol Get used to that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 :rofl: To both Mr Toad and Mr Reckess THAT might just have had a small effect on emmissions you know Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 I've got to be honest I do feel like a real prat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Loving it, ha ha. Shouldnt laugh really, im thinking of a megasquirt installation myself. The more i read, the more i ger confused. This just tickled me. Hats off to all on here, you must know your onions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Oh Look, your Avatar and Title seems to have changed Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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