stuck Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Gent's, My first experience of Land Rovers was around 25 years ago when my father used to get me to wire brush the chassis of his 2a every summer & then paint it with used engine oil. I was thinking about this today & for the life of me can't decide if it was a good think to do (from the Landy's perspective obviously) it was a bloody filthy job but I do know in the years he had it it never saw a welder. Any thoughts? Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 My philosophy is to wire-brush it back to metal (or good paint), then slap several coats of Hammerite/chassis black/whatever over it. Do the insides with cavity wax, I don't like the idea of wax on the outside due to the mess it makes, and at least with paint you can see when it needs touching up. As for used engine oil, so long as it doesn't get onto the brakes or drip off onto the road then there's no harm in it. Really horrible stuff though, carcinogenic and it stinks! Not the sort of thing I'd want to have the underside of my car covered in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew74 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 I'd think used engine oil is not a good idea, especially if you go wading. A sure fire way of polluting streams etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Used engine-oil leaves a disgusting, filthy mess which serves as a powerful deterrent to you wanting to do any work underneath. My preferred anti-rust process is to strip off all the rust/scale with a needle-gun/wire-brush/small-hammer, then go to your local D-i-Y 'shed' and buy a few litres of oil-based gloss-paint from their 'end of line' or 'damaged cans' crate. Dilute some of this with a touch of white spirit, and brush it on. 2 or 3 thick coats will give good protection - the surface is shiny which helps it shed mud/salt and cleans up really well with a jet-wash. If you put it on thick, it will 'skin' over and remain slightly flexible which gives greater chip-resistance than the dries-hard paints like Hammerite. My old SIII had most of the rear chassis painted in a rather garish "New Canary Yellow" - it was being sold off cheap (cheep?) at the local Woolworths back in the early-1980s! --Tanuki. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Sounds narsty - would surely drip off over the drive and get all over you when you do any work under the car at a later date? I'm a big fan of the tetrosyl underseal with waxoil. Only a fiver a tin from Halfords etc. Leaves a really nice smooth black finish, dry to the touch, and doesn't chip off. You can make the finish even better and help it get into little nooks by flashing it over quickly with a blowtorch. Always done my chassis' with this and not had to weld one yet., or not through rust anyway.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 I did my current Puma with various the flavours of Dinitrol from new - good stuff to work with but having a clean new vehicle and decent compressor and application gear makes the job easier. There are a bazillion threads on chassis protection on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 On my old chassis I put a wire brush on a grinder and took all rust/paint off it then 3 coats of red oxide followed by a couple of coats of hammerite...that held up very well. Halfords sell some stuff which is hammerite mixed with waxoyl, it goes on like hair gel but repels mud very well and doesn't chip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco2hse Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Used oil = cancer. Nasty poisonous and toxic stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 From the Landy's perspective its a very good thing to do. I saw a Mrk2 transit last year that had ther same treatment every year inside and out. Oil is the only way to penetrate some spotwelded joints. And nothing penetrates rust like oil (except maybe phosphiric acid) But why use old oil? New is cheaper than waxoil For the inside rail I am working toward welding up all the holes and leaving it with oil inside. This will stop muddy water getting in as well ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 From the Landy's perspective its a very good thing to do. I saw a Mrk2 transit last year that had ther same treatment every year inside and out. Oil is the only way to penetrate some spotwelded joints. And nothing penetrates rust like oil (except maybe phosphiric acid) But why use old oil? New is cheaper than waxoil For the inside rail I am working toward welding up all the holes and leaving it with oil inside. This will stop muddy water getting in as well ! Are you advocating the use of new lubricating oil for rust prevention in cavities and the like as opposed to commercially available corrosion inhibitors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dave Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 i did my 90 with fiberglass resin then black paint over that and that was about 6 years ago no. and it i go out to it right now and rub the dust off it is still like new underneath it just dose not flak or peel like paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 On an old chassis, i've always been wary of the use of paint. My experience is that if all of the existing rust is not removed, all you do is seal it in and allow the process to continue unseen under the paint layer. Unless the body is off, i'm not convinced that you can access the chassis well enough to clean it sufficiently to apply paint. I've also never found a paint product that has convinced me that it halts rust (hammerite is one that says you cal apply straight to rust, but i've found the rust just continues under the paint most of the time and that is with some effort to remove rust before application). With the above in mind, i find the wax/oil based products most useful on old chassis (although none of them are perfect). i cant wait for the day i can afford the money and time to fit a galv chassis and forget about this issue for good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 "Are you advocating the use of new lubricating oil for rust prevention in cavities and the like as opposed to commercially available corrosion inhibitors?" No I'm talking 'already rusty' rust prevention. As in; rust is hiding in inacessible structures or between spot welded items. Nothing comercial is going to penetrate the rust and clay crust on the inside of my rangy chassis. And it's looking like oil is the only thing that has any chance of keeping my 1991 transit going. Both, realistically, are terminal cases It is 'when' not 'if'.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Just bought a tin of Zinc Rich primer from these guys, damn good stuff, the 2.5L tin weighs more than a gallon of normal paint! Nearly snapped the stirring stick http://www.nwepaints.co.uk/acatalog/AntiCorrosivePrimers.html Their HD chassis black is pretty tough too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.