lambert Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Hi, Given I'm a farmer and therefore skint, how feasible is it to drift out the hinge pins on my 300tdi front doors and replace them to remove the slack and get the doors back in the right place? Anyone done this with any degree of success? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 nothing to stop you replacing the existing hinge pins with suitable length bolts, LR do not list the hinge pins as a seperate part only as part of new hinge assemblies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minimaquinas Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 a farmer thats skint didnt you mean tight lol you can pic up new hinges cheap on ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 check out my hinge pin mod; http://forums.lr4x4....l=&fromsearch=1 still going strong! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 check out my hinge pin mod; That's a fantastic modification! I'd not seen it before! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Sir Les has drilled some hinges for me that are going onto the truck this week. His adaptation is to drill up the centre of the bolt and cross drill in line with the centre section of the hinge. Then drill and tap the bottom of the bolt to accept a grease nipple. The aim is to be able to grease the middle section and not have the grease nipple potentially fouling the hinge when the door opens. Will try and remember to post up pictures when complete. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Sir Les has drilled some hinges for me that are going onto the truck this week. His adaptation is to drill up the centre of the bolt and cross drill in line with the centre section of the hinge. Then drill and tap the bottom of the bolt to accept a grease nipple. The aim is to be able to grease the middle section and not have the grease nipple potentially fouling the hinge when the door opens. Will try and remember to post up pictures when complete. Neil I've been meaning to get around to doing similar to Les since RustyNissanPrairie first inspired us with his mod.... ... I must bid on those roundtuits on ebay, I need quite a few more Depending on what tools you have available you could drill a small hole down the centre of the bolt from the threaded end to just past the middle, then another small hole across the bolt to meet it. If you were then to chop some more of the threaded bolt off you could add an 8mm threaded nipple in from the bottom of the hinge and avoid having the nipple on the side and having to grind the clearance groove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Maybe that's where Les got his inspiration from Barry... I totally missed that in the thread but you can lay claim to the inspiration and glory !! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Maybe that's where Les got his inspiration from Barry... I totally missed that in the thread but you can lay claim to the inspiration and glory !! Neil Lol, Nah I don't think I can lay claim to something unless I get off my bum and at least build a prototype and I think 11 months is excessive to pop a bolt in the lathe and drill some holes, even for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 If you're going to put the bolt in the lathe, you might as well turn the correct profile for a grease nipple into the end and not bother with the nipple! It doesn't really need the ball valve in the nipple in this application as the grease is not under pressure. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Could the existing pin be drilled, if it were sill in good nick? I don't know what the diameter of the standard pin is, probably about 6mm? You could cut it a few mm short and then tap the bottom of the hinge itself for the grease nipple. As long as there was a path up through the bolt to the cross-drilled hole I should think it would still work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 If you're going to put the bolt in the lathe, you might as well turn the correct profile for a grease nipple into the end and not bother with the nipple! It doesn't really need the ball valve in the nipple in this application as the grease is not under pressure. Si I like that thinking Si See I knew there was a reason I hadn't done the prototype yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Could the existing pin be drilled, if it were sill in good nick? I don't know what the diameter of the standard pin is, probably about 6mm? You could cut it a few mm short and then tap the bottom of the hinge itself for the grease nipple. As long as there was a path up through the bolt to the cross-drilled hole I should think it would still work? My worry would be about the remaining strength in the pin tbh, it only needs to be a small hole but is relatively speaking quite long so you would probably want to use a 2mm or possibly very careful use of a 1.5mm drill. EDIT: We could have a go with the scrap hinge that is partly buried at the entrance to your workshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Or machine a thread into the end of the pin to accept a grease nipple? M6x1 IIRC, which is probably too big for (as has been said) a 6mm-odd pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 My worry would be about the remaining strength in the pin tbh, it only needs to be a small hole but is relatively speaking quite long so you would probably want to use a 2mm or possibly very careful use of a 1.5mm drill. EDIT: We could have a go with the scrap hinge that is partly buried at the entrance to your workshop That's a fair point. At least with an 8mm bolt you've got a bit more metal in there. I have quite a few other scrap hinges that aren't buried in the mud, besides that one is there as a future archaeological find, to confuse future generations as I said before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 IMHO, the original pin is too thin to drill (as they are made from pudding grade steel and the drill tends to wander), let alone thread the end for a grease nipple. You do get nipples with a female thread - so another option micht be to drill the hole than use the nipple instead of the nut? Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Looking back at RustyNissanPrairie's thread he had to cut 10mm from the end of his bolt, so my thought would be to use the bolt that he suggests, and using the extra 10mm turn the shape of a grease nipple (as suggested by Si). Now if we can find the bolts in stainless no need to worry about rust either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambert Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Fitted as per instructions using a2 stainles from harrogate tool and bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 IMHO, the original pin is too thin to drill (as they are made from pudding grade steel and the drill tends to wander), let alone thread the end for a grease nipple. You do get nipples with a female thread - so another option micht be to drill the hole than use the nipple instead of the nut? Si What he said...female thread grease nipple and pin turned/had a die run down it to create suitable male thread. Stealing the theme from another thread...how about the X-Hinge Si? I'm sure if you build it, they will come?? A good source of hinges (as in not slop-out-of-box-part) with mod'd grease nipples? I'd buy a set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Just sell the 'greaseable' bolts, a complex looking simple item that you can impress folks down the pub with Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 The standard pin is tapered and a bugger to mount in the lathe without buggering about a bit. I only did the mod as my hinges were tired-its the cast parts of the hinge that wear not the pin hence why I went up to an 8mm bolt. The bolt was a standard size bolt (borrrowed from work!) You dont have to fit grease nipples on my mod-you can drill a smaller hole-counter sink the end slightly and use a needle grease gun instead; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK447-Needle-Nose-Grease-Dispenser-/251035031454?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a72da979e#ht_3194wt_1393 For you mountain biking types-you can do the same with Shimano cup and ball style hubs as well; http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/grease-nipple-xt-hubs still not had to strip them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 ...... For you mountain biking types-you can do the same with Shimano cup and ball style hubs as well; http://singletrackwo...-nipple-xt-hubs still not had to strip them! That is a neat mod there sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 How hard are the standard pins to drift in and out ? I have a door stiffening up a bit, it would be nice to knock the pin out clean it back up and pop it back in as a temporary fix ....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lambert Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Took me 3 hours to do one. The pin was badly worn and when I drifted out from the bottom it crumpled in the middle so I had to cut one end and force the hinge apart. The top bit would not budge even with a big hammer and the cobalt drill bit would not bite as the top of the pin was work hardened so I had to anneal it with the gas torch so I could drill it out. All told a monster of a task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Gulp ! New hinge then. Thanks for the reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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