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Anyone got any bright ideas for dealing with this? I would have thought most skims and levelling compounds wouldn't be strong enough to take things like jack wheels

Depends upon the thickness of the levelling compound layer. I had a workshop with a vinyl compound on the floor a mate father laid for us; about 10mm thick at most. It did crack near a thin edge (floor was a mess before we started) but was fine with trolley jacks lifting usual range of LR and LR-based machines. :)

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Geoff - I have exactly the stuff for your flooring woes - I used Cementone Cempolay Ultra Strong Self Levelling Floor Compound (blue bag) it's outdoors-rated heavy-duty screed, about £30 a bag from Jewsons:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=92077&p=811303

Got a plasterer to throw it down, took him all of a couple of hours from starting his cuppa to smoking a celebratory rollup.

I did paint it with epoxy resin (from Ask Coatings) which makes for uber loveliness. So far it's taken a fair bit of abuse, had a loaded engine crane rolled round on it, bits of metal dropped on it, etc. and has been rock solid. Likewise the epoxy floor paint has held really well to all manner of things being dropped on it & dragged across it.

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I'll look into that - might get the company doing the drive to quote for it (be more than getting a local plasterer in, but they'll be on site anyway and it may come with a guarantee that way). I could get the builders to do it, but will it finish up flat...?

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In my garage there was the old old floor with a fair few pits etc., then an old new bit where they'd taken down a prefab garage, widened the slab by pouring extra concrete round the outside, and then the new new bit that our builders did which I specifically asked them to make smooth.

You can see the old old (centre, near camera) and old new (edges) in this photo with white SBR (sealer) brushed on puddling in the imperfections:

IMG_2177.JPG

This is about the best shot (from the other end) that shows up the level-ness of the final floor, the far end is the old half and was screeded as described, the near end is the new smooth concrete bit and was just painted:

IMG_2257.JPG

You wouldn't play snooker on it but you can roll jacks, welders, engine cranes, and tool cabs round on it quite beautifully. I am really very chuffed with it and consider it well worth the money. Just a shame you can't see 95% of the floor for piles of junk right now! :ph34r:

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Decent shelving is on my list, but unlikely to be right away given what we've already done to the savings over the last six months (as well as the garage we've built a dining room and a utility room/shower room on the house and gutted the kitchen back to bare brick including removing a chimney breast - oh, and the bedroom above it too as it turned out).

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Sounds like upstairs plaster fell off by itself then?

Not far off - we were only planning on removing the top part of the chimney breast and putting in a new window, then making good, but the old lime plaster wasn't really attached to the bricks any more and didn't leave us with decent edge to work from so we ended up pulling it all down and replastering in there. Nothing like as horrible as when we had to do the same in the hall a couple of years ago...

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Trying to take back ~4" of plaster to tie in the bricks resulted in chasing the plaster across a 6' wall! :lol:

My house was built in 1900 (at least that's what it says on the front) and has the same plaster, if you don't want to take it all off cut it with either a Fein oscillating tool or similar.....

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My house was built in 1900 (at least that's what it says on the front) and has the same plaster, if you don't want to take it all off cut it with either a Fein oscillating tool or similar.....

If the plaster is already blown it doesn't matter how careful you are, you'll never get back to a stable edge. Small repairs are okay(ish) - you can stabilise it with PVA - but anything more than that and you have no chance of either a solid wall or an acceptable finish.

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Insulated plasterboard! Brilliant stuff.

Just done the guest bedroom in this - 30mm and 12 mm, takes up the same space as the original lime plaster, which is now acting as underfilling for the hard standing at the new workshop.

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