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WHO4 MUD

Transfer box front output bearing play

6 posts in this topic

Hi all

I have a lot of play in the front output bearing on my transfer box, I have not taken the flange of to see wether its the nut loose but im pretty shore its the bearing.

questions

  • could this have damaged anything elce?
  • can i rebuild just the front part of the box (as in technical archives have just rebuilt the back)?
  • should i just bite the bullet and recondition the whole thing just in case (this is what ide like to do) what special tools do i really need to do it.

many thanks

ben

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just replace the bearing and seal. Slightly more involved on the front bearing due to the diff lock mechanism.

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Right, how much play have you got? - this is a real bug bare for me as I think the design is pants. its supported on a ball bearing and a central shaft with splines at either end, - the inner end locates into the diff assembly, the outer end has the splined flange on it, the center shaft kind of rattles in the middle, the design tolerance for the output shaft is rediculous - that combined with sloppy pattern flange etc makes for a frightening amount of play for a shaft that is rotating at quite a high rpm.. so therei s IMHO a unhealthy amount of play in the shaft as designed.

The diff nose can be removed in situe, but you need to support the transfer box as you need to remove the drives side Tbox mount.as VB says you also need to disconnect the diff lock linkage and you need to remove the small linkage box on the top of the diff nose. Make sure that if there is a gasket between the diff nose and the case you will need to replace it as this is part of the pre-load setting for the taper bearing on the center difflock assembly.

Dave from Ashcroft can probably give you the numbers as top what play in "normal" and what isn't for a front output shaft.

I don't like my transfer box <_<

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Ok I will find out how much play it has I'm not going to enjoy this. Its going to be a large number.But cool so can take just the front of with some other bit and the mount if it's not totaly knakered.

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you need this in our tech archive

http://forums.lr4x4....=0

I did mine this way. Quite easy. Rather than drifting it out, I slackened off the flange nut,

pulled the flange forward, inserted wedges/spacers between the flange and the housing

and tightened the nut thus pulling the shaft and bearing. Needed to do this several times

using thicker spacers. The last bit did need a gentle drifting as the bearing was then flush

with the housing.

BTW the new bearing made no noticable difference! My reason for doing it was because

I had a vibration from the front prop shaft, and it was the only place I could find any play.

(a new prop shaft cured this, the sliding joint had seized solid)

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