simonr Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 I had another thought on this: Working in pretty much the same way as the one I posted before - but smaller and using the OE mountings to fit. Made in Stainless it could look quite good. Like the first effort, it ratchets open until it reaches max opening then reverses and ratchets closed so you can hold the door with the vehicle pointing up or down a slope. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Neat idea, how many actuations would you think the ratchet would last for before becoming worn enough to slip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 That's a tricky one! It would need to wear away about 100 cubic millimeters of metal. Also, one of the advantages of laser cutting is it hardens the cut edge. My guess it would be in the several thousands - so probably at least a 10 year life? A replacement Pawl would only cost pence. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Make it and I will buy for sure . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 I'm going to plasma cut some bits at the weekend - hopefully I'll have time to try this too. Just need to measure the back door on Chris.W's truck as mine has a tailgate! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 That's a tricky one! It would need to wear away about 100 cubic millimeters of metal. Also, one of the advantages of laser cutting is it hardens the cut edge. My guess it would be in the several thousands - so probably at least a 10 year life? A replacement Pawl would only cost pence. Si Sounds good to me, the door will have fallen off it's hinges or fallen to bits in that time span Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 I still haven't greased the spare wheel pivots and the back door still stays open showing the long term potential of my system. ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 I still haven't greased the spare wheel pivots and the back door still stays open showing the long term potential of my system. Mo So, actually I should be developing 'Rust-in-a-bottle'. I guess with your 'Invention' it works better & better as time goes by! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Make it and I will buy for sure . Same here, Si. As long as the price is sane, I'll buy and worry about how to make it fit the Ibex later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 So, actually I should be developing 'Rust-in-a-bottle'. I guess with your 'Invention' it works better & better as time goes by! Indeed Si, think of it as intelligent. The longer it does the job, the better it gets at it. ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I had another thought on this: Door Stay 1.jpg Door Stay 2.jpg Working in pretty much the same way as the one I posted before - but smaller and using the OE mountings to fit. Made in Stainless it could look quite good. Like the first effort, it ratchets open until it reaches max opening then reverses and ratchets closed so you can hold the door with the vehicle pointing up or down a slope. Si needs a thumb release, if you've parked too close to wall/car/tree to open fully. found that useful with terminal crimpers before, not parking them, just if you need to reposition. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 That's a very good point Pete, well spotted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 The thumb release would be a useful addition if you have a trailer hitched up. I fitted a gas strut to my rear door which is great 90% of the time but now have to leave an old welly boot upturned on the jockey wheel handle to protect the door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 Good plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Did this ever get any further? I've bust three gas struts now because of the door being caught in a gust of wind, and it's time to think of something better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Just wondering, could you use something like a double acting hydraulic cylinder with one side feeding the other and a tap in the pipe between ? Need a fluid like dot 5, last forever and not very thick. Just a mad thought....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 I like that idea! Infinitely lockable positions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Just wondering, could you use something like a double acting hydraulic cylinder with one side feeding the other and a tap in the pipe between ? Need a fluid like dot 5, last forever and not very thick. Just a mad thought....... Great idea, just make sure you get one that has equal displacement either side, or have a little reservoir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 2, 2016 Author Share Posted May 2, 2016 Something like this.... http://www.industrialgassprings.com/uk/products_LOCK_flex.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 I was thinking of actual hydraulics, but the smallest I have seen is 25mm bore, maybe a bit heavy duty; I was thinking more like http://www.bansbach.com/index.php/en/products/micro-hydraulics, though goodness knows what it would cost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Honestly, for that kind of thing, I'd find a couple of brake master cylinder seals for the chosen diameter and machine my own piston/cylinder around them. You would probably even get away with a couple of O rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 If you used an air cylinder, it would add some spring to it, to take some of the load off the fixings should the wind catch it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 If you used an air cylinder, it would add some spring to it, to take some of the load off the fixings should the wind catch it.add a bit more tech and make it pop open and closed, so long as there's sufficient space it'll be exciting lol.Anyone got experience of them fancy automatic electric opening and closing boot lids? How do they work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 Anyone got experience of them fancy automatic electric opening and closing boot lids? How do they work? I have! In fact we trialed Range Rover Electric Struts to open the canopy on a certain space ship in a certain film being shot at Pinewood at the moment! They are pretty neat. They have a small motor with a planetary gearbox driving a lead screw. Inside is a pre-tensioned spring which deliveres a fairly constant force of about 1000N to balance the weight of the door. The motor is capable of pushing / pulling 2000N (with the spring giving 3000N lift & 1000N lower or +/-2000N. The lead screw is sufficiently steep pitch that you can move the actuator by hand fairly easily - so if the motor dies, it just behaves as a spring and the motor as a damper. They contain a quadrature encoder which gives 16 pulses per mm travel (so reasonable resolution) but sadly no limit switches. The controller senses the amount of current draw to detect the ends of the travel then uses that to zero the position counter. The only issue is the motor is not continuously rated. Normally the spring is balanced by the weight of the door - and in the closed position by the door latch - so the motor moves to position, then can switch off. If you power it in against the spring, the motor burns out after 120 Sec (actually there is a thermal fuse inside - but it's hard to get to). To extend the rating, we used RC motor coolers like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Cooler-with-Cooling-Fan-1-97-inch-Height-Aluminum-Alloy-/121343185676?hash=item1c409e130c:g:PDEAAOSwv9hW4T5Z which will allow the motor to run continuously with at 50% power. Sadly, we ended up just using Hydraulics as the actuators were viewed as an unknown quantity - and we needed 100% reliability. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 I have! In fact we trialed Range Rover Electric Struts to open the canopy on a certain space ship in a certain film being shot at Pinewood at the moment! They are pretty neat. They have a small motor with a planetary gearbox driving a lead screw. Inside is a pre-tensioned spring which deliveres a fairly constant force of about 1000N to balance the weight of the door. The motor is capable of pushing / pulling 2000N (with the spring giving 3000N lift & 1000N lower or +/-2000N. The lead screw is sufficiently steep pitch that you can move the actuator by hand fairly easily - so if the motor dies, it just behaves as a spring and the motor as a damper. They contain a quadrature encoder which gives 16 pulses per mm travel (so reasonable resolution) but sadly no limit switches. The controller senses the amount of current draw to detect the ends of the travel then uses that to zero the position counter. The only issue is the motor is not continuously rated. Normally the spring is balanced by the weight of the door - and in the closed position by the door latch - so the motor moves to position, then can switch off. If you power it in against the spring, the motor burns out after 120 Sec (actually there is a thermal fuse inside - but it's hard to get to). To extend the rating, we used RC motor coolers like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Cooler-with-Cooling-Fan-1-97-inch-Height-Aluminum-Alloy-/121343185676?hash=item1c409e130c:g:PDEAAOSwv9hW4T5Z which will allow the motor to run continuously with at 50% power. Sadly, we ended up just using Hydraulics as the actuators were viewed as an unknown quantity - and we needed 100% reliability. Si Sounds like a fun project Simon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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