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Eberspacher D1LC into a 1995 Defender 90


Frax

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Hi all - I have just bought a eberspacher air heater and wondered if anyone has fitted one to a 300tdi.

​I would like to fit it in the engine bay if this is possible and route the heat to the passengers side foot well.

It would be great to see pictures of them installed if anyone has one.

Any advice appreciated.

Frax

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hi frax

it can be done but the heaters are meant to live in nice dry conditions.

there is a limit on how far the fuel pipes can run and lift fuel as well.

the can be fitted under the seat box to save interior space as well but again not ideal.

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Might look at mounting it behind the drivers seat if it does not restrict seat movement, I suppose I will get a better idea when it arrives. Will also look at under cubby box - my box sits 1" from the base but dont think that will give me enough space even with the base plate modified.

Frax

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Frax,

I am just about to fit a D2 to mine, as above they are recommended to be fitted inside as they measure the temperature of the cab air through the unit so taking air from the outside would give you a false reading and cause running issues. I am about to move my ECU and put mine under my drivers seat but you can buy an extension box that goes under the the cubby box that allows you to locate the heater under there.

I would have gone down this route if I hadn't made an ECU box and would have just put the heater there.

Jason.

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Had a look for gromits thread but had no luck, even went to his profile and looked at posts but none show up which is strange.

Jason that box looks like it was made for gromit or at least his mate Wallace who liked his cheese - why all the holes.

Frax

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Jason that box looks like it was made for gromit or at least his mate Wallace who liked his cheese - why all the holes.

Frax

The holes are to let the air out into the cabin, heating all of the passengers and the cabin or that's what I am lead to believe? the box sits under the cubby box it uses the original mountings for the cubby box and extends them up lifting the cubby box up to arm rest height, I don't think is's for the storage of cheese not even Wensleydale!!

Jason.

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I mounted mine (in my 200tdi 90) between the passenger seat and the (cut down) bulkhead. With the seat on 1" risers it doesn't affect movement of the passenger seat. It draws air from the passenger side, and vents hot air upwards behind the cubby box.

The only problem is it can make the metal parts of the drivers seat too hot to touch with exposed skin (or at least hot enough to make you jump!),

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Had a look for gromits thread but had no luck, even went to his profile and looked at posts but none show up which is strange.

Jason that box looks like it was made for gromit or at least his mate Wallace who liked his cheese - why all the holes.

Frax

Here you go:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=18347

mine is virtually the same.

For those talking about putting them in the seatbox, my advice would be not to. Mine gets so hot, i wouldnt want it pointing at my feet the whole time! Stick it in the back somewhere - they are so good, the whole truck will be heated in no time. You can use the normal blowers to keep your feet warm then whilst enjoying the fact that the rest of the truck is toasty warm.

Doesnt Fridge have his mounted in the back of his 109 somewhere??

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Thanks Reb, might look at mounting it in the back and make a tin box to cover it, Gromits thread is good though and might do one when my one turns up.

Will bench check it all first just to be sure it all works. My heater is good but just takes about 3 mile to heat up.

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Here you go:

http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=18347

Doesnt Fridge have his mounted in the back of his 109 somewhere??

Would be interested in where he fitted it as well as I seem to remember he has it at high level somewhere ?????

I have an auto console going in mine with loads of wasted space underneath was thinking of mounting it under there and ducting it out, and drilling the centre cover plate, its up out of the way for the connections underneath

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Doesnt Fridge have his mounted in the back of his 109 somewhere??

Yep, on the ceiling to the left of the back door, exhaust goes out through the back of the roof. TBH I'm planning on moving it to where the std. heater would be and reinstalling a dashboard for it to blow through. In a slightly less draughty vehicle (or with some ducting) it would probably cope better where it is, as it stands it warms the place up but never gets really toasty when on the move, more a function of my panel gaps than anything.

Also, it tends to suck in warm air which has risen to the ceiling, so it shuts down quite quickly while your feet are still cold, extending the intake duct downwards may help that, or buying a remote stat.

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Well decided to strip my fuel pump and see if I could get the thing to work. I had some success and it now pumps.

These pumps are solenoid valves which means they require a pulse voltage to get them to work.

You can test these with a flasher relay or just keep touching the live feed to the terminal with the earth connected, each time you touch the terminal the pump will click which is one stroke of the piston.

These pumps are not meant to be stripped as the pump cover is crimped over the pump end, I used a little screw driver and tapped the crimp back, I then pulled out the pump base (it is tight but does come) when that is removed you get to the piston which has a light spring on it.

The piston should move freely and return on the spring.

At the other end you have the outlet which can be removed with an 8mm spanner – in there is another spring and a ball which is the none return valve (don’t loose these).

Then you have the 10mm nut which is the housing for the none return valve, this part also adjusts the piston stroke which you use to calibrate the pump flow, if you don’t have to remove this don’t, I have and now I need to find out how to set the calibration of the pump again --- any help with this would be appreciated.

As said I now have a pump the pumps but needs calibrated and the heater has been tested and is working but only runs for app 1 min – not sure why, it gets slightly hot but just cuts out, could be the pump flow not sure.

Sorry I forgot to say the pump goes back together in reverse order – make sure the base if fully seated and use a very small hammer to re-crimp to body.

I have attached my best effort at a pump break down picture.

Hope the info will help someone.

D1LC Fuel pump operation and bits

1 = Inlet

2 = Pump base

3 = pump body

4 = Terminals

5 = Piston stop / None return valve holder.

6 = Inlet / None return valve holder

7 = Spring

8 = None return ball

9 = nothing

10 = Spring

11 = Piston

pump.jpg

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Well I started fitting my Eberspacher today - decided to fit it in the back of my 90, I know some people fit them under the cubby box and behind the seats but I only carry useful **** in the back of mine and the occasional dog so wont miss the small room it uses up.

It is hard up against the rear bulkhead and as the bulkhead slopes at the bottom I am only loosing about 1" so no big deal.

First checked underneath to make sure I had no obstructions to my exhaust and fuel supply lines, it puts it right in the middle of fuel and power supply so no large runs.

Removed my mat from the back and marked the position of the holes using the gasket from the unit.

IMAG0206.jpg

Drilled the holes the size required and fitted the unit.

IMAG0208.jpg

Connected up the exhaust and the inlet.

IMAG0207.jpg

Secured all the electrics to the bulkhead and made a cover from part of my sons old singe bed headrest to keep things bashing against the unit.

IMAG0209.jpg

Thats about for now and next update might take a while as I am due to go to work in the morning (offshore) but will update as I go.

Frax

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Really liking the look of that fitting option, I'm looking at sourcing and fitting one of these since the conversion from petrol to diesel as the heat from the existing heater has diminished considerably.

Keep us updated when you get back!

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I started to fit my D2 today, it is going under the drivers seat box where the ECU used to live, I am putting some insulated pipe between the two under seat boxes so it will work as a positive air system taking its air intake from the front of the drivers foot well to help remove the cold spot on the floor.

I will fit closing vents in the lids of both seat boxes so the air will come out of there and dissipate to the front and back, I will also fit some small closing vents to the seat box fronts to put warm air into the footwells.

Well that's the plan anyway, I have a 7 day timer with mine so the idea will be to have it come on in the mornings and make the truck warm for Mrs S on the School run.

wp000306.jpg

wp000305.jpg

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Like the idea of being able to direct where your hot air is going and your use of camping mats. I hope that I wont need to use my one on the move but you never know - just want it to heat up and defrost in the winter months. I only got a room style stat with a on/off switch on my one and did think about buying a timer but have decided to go for a remote instead. bought one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-remote-control-switch-2-keyfobs-6A-max-POPULAR-/190745867912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c6956f688 which was only £17 and switches on a 12v+ supply. the plan is to use this to switch a relay and wire it across the stat on off switch - if I have worked this out right I should be able to turn it on by remote or from the stat on/off switch.

Keep the updates coming Jason :unsure:

As you can tell I am still at home flight delays - 6am check in for me in the morning.

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The insulation is not camping mats Frax it's this stuff, I have insulated the hell out of the truck in prep for Norway, I don't intend to use my heater on the move either unless it gets really cold, I also have a D4 to heat the engine, but will be sleeping in the truck on our trip so want it to be warm!!

The updates are on my truck page.

Jason.

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Sorry Jason it sure is not camping mat - that stuff looks really good quality. I did the same job last year and used stuff called fatmat which was and still is good but a bit costly - will have to have a good read of your truck page. My roof is covered in foil covered camping mat and from the foil side looks the same but not near as good, to compensate I covered the roof with car carpet, all glued on and is holding up well so far.

Frax

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