Frax

Eberspacher D1LC into a 1995 Defender 90

82 posts in this topic

Just curious as to why these type of heaters have been choosen.

The type of heaters normally fitted in Scandinavia are the engine (water) preheaters.

If extra cab warmth is needed, then a simple extra blower, plumbed into the coolant

circuit is sufficient.

This type is fitted as standard to all LR delivered in Scandinavia, as well as most other

diseasel vehicles. http://www.parkingheater.co.uk/products/parking-heater.html

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it depends if you want to be hot without having to heat the coolant if your not running the vehicle for a while. the air heaters do work much quicker than the coolant heaters for interior heat. - as you would expect.

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Just curious as to why these type of heaters have been choosen.

The type of heaters normally fitted in Scandinavia are the engine (water) preheaters.

If extra cab warmth is needed, then a simple extra blower, plumbed into the coolant

circuit is sufficient.

This type is fitted as standard to all LR delivered in Scandinavia, as well as most other

diseasel vehicles. http://www.parkinghe...ing-heater.html

As James said really, I will be sleeping in my truck so will require heating in the cab at night when I don't want to run the engine up, I am also going to fit an engine heater (Eberspacher D2) to pre-heat the engine before starting off in the mornings. We also use our truck when camping and something that will be good is to have somewhere to warm the wife and kids.

Jason.

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Fair enough.

But you shouldn't need to heat the truck when sleeping in it during the night.

I've slept outside in tents in -35 and it's no problem, it's your kit that you use that makes the difference.

but understand if enfants and SWMBO are there aswell. Just make sure your batteries are tip top, as

they will take a hammering in the cold temperatures. A lot of people here struggle to get Webastos and

Ebers to work when it starts getting really cold.

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Fair enough.

But you shouldn't need to heat the truck when sleeping in it during the night.

I've slept outside in tents in -35 and it's no problem, it's your kit that you use that makes the difference.

but understand if enfants and SWMBO are there aswell. Just make sure your batteries are tip top, as

they will take a hammering in the cold temperatures. A lot of people here struggle to get Webastos and

Ebers to work when it starts getting really cold.

No fear with my kit, my bag is good down to -30 comfort rating and will be supplemented with a thermolite liner.

For the batteries I have three 110 amp ones these are new this year so should be good, two of these are under the seats and one in the rear storage unit, these will be heated by the air heater as I will be running a pipe to the battery box in addition to this I have fitted a 12v heating pad under the battery tray to help to pre-heat the batteries prior to starting the truck. I have also replaced my glow plugs to assist the starting process.

I have also fitted a 240v system with two c-tek charges so if 240v is available we will be able to connect the truck recharge the batteries and heat the cab via a small electric fan heater.

Jason.

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All my bits turned up so thought I would start with the remote module, the module switches 12v & I required it to open and close a volt free contact.

This was easy to do with a relay. Removed the cover on the eber room stat and got the printed circuit board out, soldered two wires onto the two point for the on/off switch and run the wires to the volt free contacts on the relay. rebuilt and tested and all worked so now I can turn the eber on from the stat on/off switch or the remote.

Run my power cables with 4mm2 wire and an inline fuse. Not a hard job as the battery box is close to the unit. Eber fuel pump mounted but not wired up yet. Remote unit mounted on rear bulkhead behind drivers seat.

Hope to pipe up tonight and test ------ will see how I get on.

Frax

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Well bit of frost in Scotland this morning so went to the back door about 1/2 hour before I was leaving and switched on the eber with the remote. Great I thought...1/2 later went out and nice warm Defender and all frost gone from the windows. Then the disappointing bit - went to start the Land Rover and she needed some turning over before she eventual fired up. Usually starts on first turn of the key. Thinking about it I am just wondering if the eber had taken the easy route for the fuel supply and sucked fuel back down from my fuel filter instead of taking it from the tank.

I took the supply from the fuel tank feed about 8" from the tank by fitting a tee.

I now think that the eber is taking the fuel from the highest point and wonder if it would be possible and feasible to fit a none return valve in the fuel line after the tee so stop any fuel being able to be sucked back by the eber.

Any thoughts on fitting an NRV to the fuel line...........

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Fitting a NRV in the fuel line would be the simple answer, if you think it is taking Diesel from the line, there are loads around and they are pretty cheap. The other consideration is what is your battery/batteries like, could it by that it sapped the power from these if they were not well charged.

Jason.

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Hi Jason I did think it may be the battery as they also suffer from cold but I still had a good 13v according to my gauge, I do only have one though.

As there is no way of knowing where the metering pump is taking it fuel from as with most things I would think it will take the easy route.

There is no point in sucking when there is a head of fuel sitting there waiting to be used.

Now all I need to do is remember if I ordered a 6mm or 8mm reducing tee - brain, I wish I had one that could remember things.

If it kicks into gear I will order an NRV - I have a 6mm so chances are I will need the 8mm.

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Do you not still have the confirmation email? Assuming you ordered online ;) There are benefits to storing loads of pointless emails for years :P

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Wish it was that easy, bought on ebay and it was one of them with the pull down menu to select the size you require.

Confirmation email just said two tee's - just had a look. Will need to see what one I have left.

Will have to leave it till the weekend and ha a look.

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Battery may be showing 13V, but what does it show when you try to turn the engine over?

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Thanks MO, will update once I fit the NRV, hope I do not need another battery, a lot of expense so far.

Wife did say she would supply candles and a hot water bottle for half the price.

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IMAG0225.jpg

IMAG0220.jpg

Well sorry for the slow update but was out in the garage tonight - thought I would start with a picture of the fuel pump (pic's not the best)

Think I will need to adjust the pump as I have lots of white smoke.

Fitted the NRV - lots of diesel running down my arm. Its in though.

IMAG0219.jpg

The drip on the eber fuel line is water (I hope) had her for a short run after I fitted the 6mm NRV.

Should be able to test my theory in the morning as its f-in freezing and frosty here.

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Well its frosty - went out at 8am and used the remote to start the eber.

IMAG0227.jpg

She started up and I went back indoors - freezing. 30min later I went back out and the eber had cut out, not sure why yet, turned the stat up but it did not cut in, will have a look at that soon - anyway my volt meter was down to just over 11 volts, turned on the key and let the glow plug do its job then went for a start and she fired up first time so looks like the NRV has done its job.

IMAG0229.jpg

May still need to look at the battery as I think these things are very voltage sensitive - not sure if its only on start up or when its running as well.

Need to find out why it stopped as now I have no idea how long it ran for so might need to do the test again.

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I have been back out fiddling and come to the conclusion that it was battery voltage that stopped her firing. So if anyone knows of a cheap way to fit two batteries in the box under the seat let me know, the one I have in there takes up most of the room.

For now I can still start it and run it but will need to get the Defender running in about 15 min to get the power up.

I have now changed the air outlet as it was heating the back but was not really defrosting the windows as quick as I would like it to so I have now drilled a hole in the rear bulkhead and fitted a vent behind my cubby box.

IMAG0230.jpg

IMAG0231.jpg

Next was the white smoke, as I had played about with the pump and had made my best effort at resetting it I started there.

Turned in the 10mm adjustment nut about 1 ½ turns and started her up, not near as much smoke and far more heat coming from the heater now :) , still smokes but I don’t know how much is normal.

I am going to leave it there for now but may adjust in again later.

Hope this thread has been of some interest.

Frax

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I have been back out fiddling and come to the conclusion that it was battery voltage that stopped her firing. So if anyone knows of a cheap way to fit two batteries in the box under the seat let me know, the one I have in there takes up most of the room.

I have a halfords battery on my 110 (whichever one they reccomend in the shop). I think that it has run my D1LC on its lowest setting for most of a day 9-5 whilst the dog has been in the car on some winter days. They use the most power during startup (i think this is the reason for the 30 (?) amp fuse) and draw much less on tickover. I wonder if your current battery is on its way out as, from my experience, you shouldnt need two to run the heater for more than 15 mins.

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Have you any details on that Battery or can you get me them, my battery is old. It came with the Defender and I have had her for three years now but one of them years the battery sat on a trickle charger.

The Land Rover often sits for two weeks in my garage due to me being away at work and has never failed to start.

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I'll try and take a look tomorrow, but it was just the calcium version of whatever was on the sheet in Halfords for my 19J TD engine (its running a tdi now).

Mine has sat for 3-4 months (max) whilst i changed my crossmember and other bits and it started first turn of the key after that with no charging.

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I brought a couple of these for the Defender last year, two will fit in the battery box turned the other way from the standard mount although you do need to make the bottom of the battery box flat.

But if you are just after a replacement LR battery I don't think you can go wrong with one of these

Jason.

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Thanks Jason, would one of the Numax do the job or are leisure batteries different, just though I could add one now and go for another later if need be.

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