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Clutch questions 200TDI 1992 ish


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Clutch questions 200TDI 1992 ish

Well on the way home from a 12 hr night shift I stopped at the scene of a car fire to check everyone was out and the Fire service where on there way. as I left it was raining and the road goes over a railway line so a flyover and a small incline, at first I thought it was possibly wheel spin but not in 3rd gear it appears that the clutch was slipping but only a little bit and not for long, I was tired and thought it could have been me, feet to brain interface not working well so played about a little and it would seam that the clutch is slipping, would the bitting point move due to wear as it feels like it is now right at the top of the pedal stroke or have I just got a simple adjustment to make and all will be fine, I know that I should just go outside and adjust it and try but it is cold and raining out side.

Next question If the clutch needs changing is it a DIY job on a drive way ( I have the necessary skills mechanical fitter in the power industery) The clutch is probably just under two years and 10,000 miles old when I got the LR the gear box broke on the drive home and cost me a gear box this was done by a local garage and a specialist gear box man, while the box was out we looked at the clutch as the local garage suggested a clutch at the time I said the previous owner said it had just had a clutch Ha Ha Ha ha said so we looked at it and there was no sign of any clutch dust let alone any wear so we left it well alone.

If it is some thing that can be done at home which way is easiest does both the gear box and transfer box need to come out or can they move back enough to get at the clutch and what is the best way to realign the clutch plate.

I did a quick search before going to sleep this morning but didn't find the right answers....

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If the biting point is moving then it could be a hydraulic issue (although it usually moves lower than higher). Anything to do with the master cylinder being faulty, flexible pipe expanding, slave cylinder faulty, a fluid leak or old fluid.

Further along the chain it could be the release fork, but this usually shows as an immovable pedal. Then to the release bearing that might be breaking and/or not moving along the splines smoothly. The clutch plate/pressure plate/flywheel are the last in the chain and if had been recently visually inspected to be in good condition, then it's less likely to be them and something further up the system.

My breaking release bearing caused the clutch to slip and a high pitched noise when depressing the clutch pedal, details here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=70346

If it's not hydraulic then you will probably have to split the engine/gearbox to find out. It's doable on a driveway with an engine crane.

Does it make any noises?

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Does it make any noises?

Yes I have been out to do some xmas shopping and it drove ok, but if I apply full gas in 3rd or 4th gear it sounds like an auto on kick down but without the increase in speed lift off the gas and the engine and transmission catch each other up and alls ok again, so for my money it's the release bearing holding the clutch depressed a little or the clutch has had it......

May go and see my local garage and see if he will lend me a ramp for a few days for beer money. Nice and dry still cold though but loads better than on a drive way.

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Well I have been out in the cold to have a look and for a starting point I removed the wadding plug. Here starts the confirmation of the next steps I drained a litre of engine oil out of the bell housing via the wadding plug.

So next step is to replace the damaged clutch components and the crankshaft oil seal or whatever has caused the leak, some thoughts of my own are that the seal has just failed or the engine has an increased pressure in the crank (piston rings passing) and or a blocked breather system the breather system is something that is easy enough to check and I will do this, so is there anything else that should be checked?

My next question (may start a new thread) is which is easiest and or best way to go, engine out or gearbox and transfer box out to get at the clutch and crank shaft oil seal?

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sounds like the crank rear seal has given up, not much else will let engine oil into the bell housing,

my last clutch change I just shifted the gearbox backwards so the front edge sat on the cross member, gives abot 6 o 8 inches to work through, more than enough to change the clutch & sort the seal.

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Check or replace the gearbox seal too while you are in there. Normally if the wading plug is left out (as it should be when not required) engine oil leaking doesn't get on the clutch but gearbox oil will. Though with the plug in and a litre of engine oil in there it will get on the clutch.

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you can drop the gearbox down pretty easily, using a trolley jack. its all doable on your own but i would reccomend you have someone else there as the box is rather quite heavy, and when you can move it about on your own, youll probably injure yourself, and theres no way youll get it back in alone unless you have access to an engine crane.

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I've always found it easiest to pull he engine out, give yourself some room to do the job properly, instead of peeing about lying on your back trying to change a rear crank seal.

Get an engine hoist, a mate and it'll take you 4 hours, start to finish.

And, use a genuine rear crank seal, unless, of course, you want to do it twice in a couple of days. I have that particular T-shirt ;)

Mo

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before i got my ramp, i used to do it from above, with the gearbox moved back (on a series which is nigh on the same but you cant remove the crossmember so seatbox has to come up anyway if you want the box out) ive never been too hard up on space doing it like that

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