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ibex 300 build


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I need a bigger garage I had to take the crane apart to get it into position to trial fit the gearbox. After a bit of to and fro I've settled for this position it should allow me to use the standard disco manifold and front pipe. I reckon that it should also let me fit the radiator the standard distance from the engine (disco) and I may be able to squeeze the big intercooler I have in front of the radiator subject to it all clearing the steering box. Both front and rear props look to be 40mm longer than standard running length at full droop. Hopefully I can go with td5 90 rear/puma front (need to confirm lengths) on the front and post 02 td5 110 rear on the rear worst case is I make a pair of 20mm spacers.

IMAG0999.thumb.jpg.7b7f08ec043fc8aa126e5c5df21ad5f2.jpg

Mike

Edited by miketomcat
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Ibex are designed to take any land rover gearbox/engine combination you want. Mine was set up to be td5/r380 so I figured short stick lt77/200tdi would sit in roughly the same position. Mine also has bolt on engine mounts so that allows me to fiddle the position to keep as much standard as possible.

Mike

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I'm thinking of a slight change of plan I was going to use a td5 loom but A I don't have any interior or chassis loom so I would need to either make or buy those looms and B given that I'm not using a td5 it seems a bit pointless. The td loom I have is old and only really a useful source of cable but I'm about to break the disco for the engine and front axle so the new thinking is use the disco loom but strip out the bits I don't need.

Also I'm revisiting the idea of using the disco front calipers mainly to save some penny's. Now I know it's possible to fit a disco servo and master onto a defender pedal box but this requires a mod to servo mounting. So I'm going to see if I can fit a disco master on a defender servo.

Mike

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If engine etc are coming from the Disco it makes sense to cannibalize that loom, there ain't all that much of a 200Tdi loom to worry about, 300Tdi is about twice as much again.

That was kind of my thinking most components are in roughly the same place so I'll just strip out some redundant cables. Plus it forces me to fit some bit's I probably wouldn't bother with if I use defender loom.

Mike

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Extra points if you mould cupholders directly into the gearbox tunnel :rofl:

Dave

I'm going to have to now just for my own entertainment. Now your going to have to go and measure your cup holders as I don't have a car new enough that'll teach you.

Mike

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I was just about to say that (about the phone holder, not the door gaps :glare: ), although if you want to come back & do a Version 2 with cup-holders that's fine by me ^_^

Personally I think the patented TSD high performance cup holders are the way forward.

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I was just about to say that (about the phone holder, not the door gaps :glare: ), although if you want to come back & do a Version 2 with cup-holders that's fine by me ^_^

Personally I think the patented TSD high performance cup holders are the way forward.

No point you drive it as much as will warne.

You may need to refresh my memory re TSD cup holders.

I do plan to mold a cubby box onto in and I'm trying to work out if I can get ducting through for heater vents in the rear foot wells.

Mike

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Not ever so cheap, but late type D3 front cupholder inserts ( LR021330 ?) work really well - hollow rubber grips to take different sized cups.

I've probably got an early type one you can have as a buck - fits the same but doesn't hold the cup tightly.

They fit into a pocket in the tunnel trim. Pics of both bits on ebay.

I can't find a pic of the Go-Fasta High Performance cupholders fitted to my Ibex, but they were strikingly similar to this...

high_perf_cupholder.JPG

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