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Mercedes om606 engine


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  • 2 weeks later...

There's an adapter available to bolt them to a 700r4, that would be the route I would be tempted to take if I were ever to fit a 606 in mine. With another adapter the 700r4 bolts to my Orion Tcase.

The 700r4 has massive aftermarket support and can have TC lockup in all but first gear.

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722.397 4 speed, and the 5 speed Gelandewagen box 722.611 which has some internal differences specifically aimed for offroad use. also has deeper pan etc.

Clearance issues can be resolved in a number of ways.

There are a couple of other OM606 sumps also, which are not 'fully' forward - but also remember, the oil pump is located there so any real clearance issues are going to present a problem for you regardless.

What is the installed height of the engine? Do you have a body lift? (which would allow for more clearance, by relocating mounts etc)

You could also consider doing a cut n shut on the sump, relocating the pan aft, etc. Because you can pretty much use any 6cyl pan, you could feasibly grab 3 or 4 of them and fabricate your own version.

Jeep Wrangler also used OM613 / 648 I believe, so possibly other sources for your parts abound....

post-104901-0-02663800-1472447295_thumb.jpg

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722.3 is approx 45mm shorter. To me, it would be a complete waste. most 722.3's have a direct 1:1 4th gear (they are only a 4 speed) and only some of the pissweak 722.4's as fitted to baby 4 cyl m102's and the 2.6L m103 had an overdrive ratio available on certain models (so it would depend on the vehicle it was fitted to, which is why you need the second triplet to decipher the gearbox).

Shorter still are 717.4xx manual 5 speeds. Even shorter than that are 716.6xx manual 6 speeds. Some of these have 'sequentronic' which is basically a solenoid controlled adapt-shift 'paddle' manual gearbox. It can operate in an automatic mode with the car's ECU controlling it, but it is a waste of f-ing time and money and hydraulics and electrics. Underneath it all, is the same manual 716.6xx gearbox that you can fit a manual shifter to - be it a BMW e36 dog-bone style or the c-class / e-class reverse lockout style, where reverse is pull up to prevent accidental engagement (it runs on a cable pivot linkage and is OK)

Sprinter have cable operated gearboxes as well. But since you want the auto - You're possibly going to have to make some tough decisions I guess....

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Thanks mercguy, pretty much what i guessed.

I dont want to go manual, and the 722.6 is a nice box (also already have the OFGear controller).

I already have the e320 sump with the rear pan. And had even considered dry-sumping it. But the closest point is actually the bottom of the block (sump is only 10-20 mm at that point).

I think i'm going to have to raise my cab up more, and possibly modify my already nicely welded inlet manifold to get the axle clearance.

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The W211 E320 does, because my donor engine came with one! Its on the intake manifold side, towards the rear of the engine.

Nick, The OM648 sump will need modification around the bell housing. My plan is to fill in the webs of the pan with weld where the holes need to be and drill/tap/helicoil them. (Or just drill depending on the access for bolts when it goes together).

mm ok, when i tried to buy one as a backup, the MB stealer told me it didnt.

I will need to do the bell housing mod, will be interested in pics if others have done it. Does it overlap? I thought there were places where i was going to have to weld extensions on...(not in front of it right now)

Not sure I'll get chance to get up there this week... but I can get some pictures for you HoSS. From memory it does overlap.... its just some of them fall in the places where its only a thin web between the original holes.

Feasibly, if the area can be thoroughly cleaned and roughed a little with a burr then devcon Aluminium (F) putty should be strong enough for the application. May even be preferable to welding. (use the genuine stuff) Good enough for use in aluminium heads, so I can't see it as being much of a problem in a small casting void in a bellhousing flange.

Especially as the bolt is required to go all the way through it anyway...

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  • 2 months later...
On 8/29/2016 at 10:26 AM, HoSS said:

Thanks mercguy, pretty much what i guessed.

I dont want to go manual, and the 722.6 is a nice box (also already have the OFGear controller).

I already have the e320 sump with the rear pan. And had even considered dry-sumping it. But the closest point is actually the bottom of the block (sump is only 10-20 mm at that point).

I think i'm going to have to raise my cab up more, and possibly modify my already nicely welded inlet manifold to get the axle clearance.

longer bump stops, axle limiters? if it all fits nicely is it worth all he extra hassle for a few mm travel?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 20/06/2016 at 11:31 PM, retropower said:

Bringing this thread back up again, I'm just starting out on putting an om606 into a Range Rover classic. I'm going the R380 route, I don't want an auto. I'm aware of the R380 shortcomings but I'm not going for crazy power, it's a daily driver and I want to keep some economy. I see a few folks have used the SMT adaptor, I was looking at making my own if I can lay my hands on a drawing of the r380 bellhousing to save me drawing it myself. My first question is why do all the adapters seem to use the v8 bellhousing? Is this because it fits better than the 300tdi or is there some other reason? I ask as I have an r380 and lt230 from a disco 300tdi already (I was going 300tdi but can't bring myself to fit something so heavy with so little power!!)

in my project ive used the V8 disco auto box with the 300tdi bell housing, 606 is running a manual/mechanical fuel pump with 6mm inserts so just up on standard power but everything eles is as it come out the donner car,i would of liked to use a manual box (r380) as the are 2 to a penny to pick up and cheap as chips if the do go bang, i dont think the out/input shafts are long enough to mate up with the 606 flywheel without a lot of work to get a clucth plate/flywheel as mb done very few manual 606td's unlike the easier auto option (spacer/flexplate) please dont start ranting raving if im wrong if it can be done im happy to take mine apart and look at it again for a manual box, mines altogether but im yet to try/drive it as its only in the mock up stage and need to get some props made  

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On 06/01/2017 at 9:53 AM, woody77 said:

in my project ive used the V8 disco auto box 

If you are going autobox, why not use the 722.6? Its vastly superior to the LR boxes, and it mates to the OM606 as standard.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 06/01/2017 at 8:53 AM, woody77 said:

in my project ive used the V8 disco auto box with the 300tdi bell housing, 606 is running a manual/mechanical fuel pump with 6mm inserts so just up on standard power but everything eles is as it come out the donner car,i would of liked to use a manual box (r380) as the are 2 to a penny to pick up and cheap as chips if the do go bang, i dont think the out/input shafts are long enough to mate up with the 606 flywheel without a lot of work to get a clucth plate/flywheel as mb done very few manual 606td's unlike the easier auto option (spacer/flexplate) please dont start ranting raving if im wrong if it can be done im happy to take mine apart and look at it again for a manual box, mines altogether but im yet to try/drive it as its only in the mock up stage and need to get some props made  

Hi, not been on here in ages, been restoring the Range Rover body shell, nearly there now, so back on the oily bits ready for mockup, then the body will be off for blasting and thermal zinc spray coating.

regarding the input shaft lengths, it's not a case of them not being long enough, but possibly just the wrong lengths! I'm not 100% until Saturday when I plan to have a proper measure up, but the sprinter dual mass delete flywheel I'm planning to use (used one before on a 606) adds a lot of length to the 606 and has a nice roller spigot bearing which pops out easily and is easy to change for a different spigot bearing. I have a v8 bellhousing, a tdi bellhousing, a tdi r380 and a v8 r380 to try combinations. Obviously if it were too short there's always the td5 r380 which is much longer input shaft and i need to buy one anyway if this looks like working as I need a suffix k or l box to build the strong one from! It looks to me that the tdi input shaft with v8 bellhousing will be very very close to working, but hard to tell exactly until all assembled. I suspect it will be a little short, which I hope I can remove from the faces of the bellhousing. We will see!

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My own feeling on the OM606 conversions is that the best transmission is the 722.6 auto.  The problem is, they need a standalone controller and you need a VSS to drive a speedo.

 

However, the ML's 716.6 is a good candidate, as the transfer case can be removed, and just like the LT230/BW transfer cases, a spud shaft (and adaptor plate to the ML flange) can be used to mate the two.

This leaves you with a couple of things to attend to.  1. shifter (sprinter/ML - cable operated) possible propshaft length changes (good time to upgrade to a pair of tom woods shafts) , the linkages for the CDL and handbrake, and transfer case mounts.  Any / all of these would be required anyway, unless of course, the OM606 is located exactly correctly with regards to the existing mounts for the trans / transfer case.

If the mating face of the bellhousing has to move fore or aft  from the existing position, then all of the above will need doing anyway - so food for thought before you take the plunge.

the 716.6 is a very strong manual box in the diesels. As much as I love my manual boxes though, I would choose the 722.6 auto every single day of the week for a 'driver'. if it was simply a special occasion bashmobile, then it wouldn't worry me.

Keep us updated with your progress, it's always an interesting read.  Pics too please!

 

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Using the 722.6 there's no need to worry about speedo, just use the standard LR setup picking up from the transferbox. Certainly Ole's controller for the gearbox can use the internal speeds for shift points and is the recommended way of doing it when hooked up to a transferbox. (Rather than using an external speed sensor). 

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Om606 plus r380 box mated. Tdi input shaft, v8 bellhousing, smt/Gaz fab adaptor plate, sprinter dmf delete flywheel, tdi friction plate, sprinter pressure plate. all looks ok. About 2.5 to 3mm shy of complete clutch spline engagement. I don't think that will be an issue, I can face off 3mm of the bellhousing if it was a problem. Need to make spigot bushing but doesn't look tricky

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Complete flywheel kit with clutch £225, adaptor plate depends on what Gaz fab would want, (I did a deal on a plate as he only really wants to sell complete kits to fit the auto box so I offered him £150 for the plate alone on grounds it would save that much of my time drawing it up myself!)

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I'm almost finished the conversion with fully electronic 606 and merc 5speed auto, and it would turn a standard r380 to playdough in minutes at full throttle. Gazfab has a lot of great products, and takes a lot of the hardship out of the conversion, but the 722.6 merc box is worlds ahead of the zf.

 

a lot of the merc guys fitting sprinter flywheels mill down the lip on the flywheel when using the c270cdi 6 speed manual box in merc conversions, might be a better option than taking it off the bellhousing

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That's a lot cheaper than I expected. 

As I read it a standard engine is ~180hp and around 250 with pump mods? That's not out the question for an R380 if driven with respect I don't think. 

 

My point is I can buy a td5 90 spend a day bolting £1500 to it and it will make around 200hp and it will be considerably livelier than my tdi and not take me weeks of shedding!

Perhaps I need to do some more merc manual gearbox research.

 

will.

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