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kiwi series build


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LOL simple... the same way a normal leaf spring works, with a shackle this also gives me a couple of bushes to take out the miss-alignment as the axle swings away from the spring... thats my job for tomorrow hopefully have the deck and roof back on by Sun night

The shocks will mount outboard of the lower link and go up the outside of the chassis rail, this is a Rangy axle so its a bit wider and I've 95% confirmed the patrol axles so they are even wider so shouldn't be any problems fitting them out there

Luv leaves as a spring its the ideal to me cheap, adjustable and progressive, I'll adjust these so it sits near to original height.... then later on when I add an exo and rear mount PTO winch its a simple mater of adding a leaf to compensate... not so simple on coils lol

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Yea those shackles lol lets just say its what I had in the scrap but they are..... lol you'll soon see

Have a look back through the pic's you'll find a pic of the leaf spring clamped to the back of the chassis with a trolley jack under the end of it.... its a bit of a guess given there was no deck, cab etc but all I did was measure the free end of the spring then took the weight of the chassis and measured again it was 100mm of travel and I wanted 150mm of travel so I've removed one main leaf

Its an easy thing to add in or remove leaved.... back off 4 bolts holding the spring clamp bolt, slide extra leaf in or remove leaf and tighten

will hopefully have it sitting on shackles today

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What is it with the frogs, then again you do spend alot of time at sea lol

Another wee update
Had Big T over doing some work on the toy, Re-timed the injector pump :roll: set it to what it should be according to online manuals... no change so trial and error got 2 keyways and 3 timing marks so end result is LD28 keyway and LD20 timing mark but it runs sweet no more smoke LOL while he was at it he cut the loom out and left me with just what we need
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Had some spare rocket launcher switches so they are glow and ignition and the old horn button is starter
Got the shackles sorted for the springs.... Couldn't find any tube that worked with the recycled hilux bushes so I carved some out of an old digger track pin :lol:
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Was looking at my junk and offcut pile and came up with a bit of an idea there was some old bearings that had been setup as runners a bit of machining and some scrap 10mm and we have
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should work and allow for miss-alignment due to articulation if it looks like they want to kick off to the side I'll weld stopper blocks on the side
Here they are attached to the axle
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I was hoping to get the deck on tonight but I had to leave early to bring my son home... now I just wait n see how fast my back comes good after the steriod shot tomorrow.....
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Well picture a box of frogs with them all hopping and jumping around on each other. Thats what I imagine it is possibly like inside your brain! Hence "Mad as a box of frogs"

It has to be with all the whaky, wild and Awesome ideas that come out of that mind.. :hysterical:

But dont worry in this instance it is definitely meant as some sort of compliment :i-m_so_happy:

Now get back to work, the Rover has to be ready by Friday for Costa..

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LOL I'll be there can't give clive a chance to say to eveyone "told you he couldn't do it...."

My list is

Extend some hilux shackle pins to finish holding it on the springs

Put on deck

CAD up shock placement

Cut deck to fit, bend up hoops and weld to chassis

Cross brace

Weld up diff head

Fit axles and diff

Extend drive shaft

Plumb up brakes

Battery box

Drivers fender needs screwed on

That about covers it shouldn't be a problem LOL

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The chassis is a bit of a talking piont.... not for lack strength but because of it, the chassis's I've worked on in the past have been nothing flash mild steel or something close this... its alot tougher just doing the bend test when I was fixing some of the rust in it, I was surprised I would rate this steel (@2mm) as hard to bend as 3.5mm med tensil hilux chassis steel

Got us wondering if its a special order ex army

Anyway I was conscious of the strength of the mounting area that is why I've spread out the chassis mounting tabs and tie'd them all the way to the top and across the underside my concern was the issue of cracking due to unknown carbon content

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Got a steroid shot in my back on monday... tuesday I had enough of doing nothing so headed down the shed.... lol the 5min drive was that bad by the time I got there i wasn't certain my clutch foot would work due to the pain... took me half an hr before I was able to do anything

Got the pins machined to hold the shackles and dropped her down on the springs.... LOL it works a treat definitly not standard landy suspension soft responsive.... I really wondered if the plastic strips would make any difference.... the springs respond that well they almost bounce!

A mate turned up, been out for a ride so he gave me a hand, he fished out the diff head and I welded that, the diff is a throw away anyway its a 4.7 and at some time in the past has eaten the spider gears would be my guess as there are dints on the pinion tooth faces

I lay down under the truck and welded the inside of the diff head where I'd shaved it, he then fitted up the axle, I sorted the battery box while he did that (I had to remove it so we could do the injector timing)

Got the rear shocks CAD'd up last night so I know where to place them

Hopefully my back is happier today LOL

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Oh man, hard to do anything like this with a bad back. That's dedication! I'm following this with great interest. As I only live a hundred miles away, I guess there may be some chance I get to see your beast in action some time. Hope you get the back and truck sorted before one does in the other!

Don

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the setup looks really interesting and should work well!!

I learned a trick not long ago to reduce fatigue cracks at weld terminations, with a standard bead the weld suddenly stops and there is a concerntration area of stress on the steel next to it. If you weld the ends in a Y shape (i.e. keep running past the end of your thing youre welding, and go off at ~30 degrees for an inch or 2, and then do the same again to form a Y shape it spreads the stress out and reduces cracking quite a lot.

i dont know if it can be done after the weld has cooled or not though? ive only ever done it as i welded it.

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I know what you mean and its a good trick, adding temination welds now would help but wouldn't be as good as doing it right first time ... what I did was to tie into the seams with the main pieces. I've also tie'd the whole chassis link and spring mounts in support of each other, this means I get a large suface area working on the chassis so it shouldn't be critical, there is alot of leverage forces from this style of spring my tie in length (clamp area) 150mm with a spring thats 700mm long, this is why the pieces all linked together before I welded them

All good Don, Iv'e been self employed for way to long this is taking it easy lol probably why my back is stuffed... but this toy is intended to be a play'er not a project so it'll be done in stages and run in what ever state lol the boys that hang around the shed are already planing more trips your welcome to tag along if you want

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2 am I get up in 4 hrs but she is all good-ish LOL rear diff/axle is making a clicking noise but its internal and there is no external indicators so I've thrown a spare head in cab and we are away

Figured I'd post up the "flex" shot we ran it up the loading ramp next to work just to test the suspension in case the tilt shackles had the potential to fold

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And the funny bit all this and then you look round the front

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Right the pain is going hopefully have some pics from the trip

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Really liking the fabrication work, shame its hiding under the hacked up series!!!

What are you using to cut your brackets out with? cnc plasma?

I wonder if the axle case will be under more load with the trailing arm mounts behind the case? Currie enterprises used to do a simiilar setup they called the J-arm kit.

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Back held out, landy ran a treat apart from a couple of small issues... got some dirty fuel and lost rev's till we cleaned the filter, and I removed the drivers door, this helped me see better lol as I was able to hang out the side to see past the dirty windscreen

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This is one of the few times I got stuck (other than due to small wheels, a set of 35"s is high on the list LOL)

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the bearing shackles were a bust won't worry about that in the future, they didn't do anything.... but the suspension in the back LOL that plus the locked rear I climbed where the bigger trucks went with there V8's and 35" simex's and that was in the sloppy mud I'm really keen to see how this thing goes in the dry! Truck felt nice en stable but that could be due to my experiance driving tilt body skidders and just balancing on the front

Was quite funny to see peoples expressions at the play areas I drive up something can fell the back flex but still pushing and I look over to see the passenger from another truck steering at my rear end LOL

Going to add in a couple of leaves to each pack as they settled over the weekend and dropped about 4"s, might ditch the shackles for something lighter and more standard but look at bigger bushes for more side flex, also going to move the shock top mounts out a bit for better damping action from the shock will also give me a better clearance line for the rear winch line going forward

Discomikey- that is one way to lift it I was planing on using leaves and caster correction wedges in the spring clamp area as I've clearanced the chassis to fit with 1cm clearance at full bump, ride was too soft LOL I should have run with the extra leaf I planed but I pulled it due to it sitting high in the shed....

Thanks for the comments Don

dirtydesiel- Thanks for the comment, I have to admit I kinda like the fact the cool stuff is in hidding under a "redneck hack", the plans are eventually to do a full comp exo/body if any of the video of me in action comes out you'll understand why, LOL I'm kinda noted for the hold nothing back attempt

All the profiles are gas cut (oxy/acet) or cut by disk, I do have a plasma but its way to dear on consumables LOL this truck has been made from recycled or scap but normally I CAD profiles and pass them off to the local cutter they are cheaper than what I can buy the plate for

I'm not worried about the axle mounts, the lower ones are wrapped to half the dia of the axle and are 10mm thick welded both sides the axle is reinforced inside with line pipe and portal welds all alone... I also have alot of seperation between my upper and lower links also, having the mount there means that my welds are in tension under acceleration but under compression under impact probably a better option as with my driving impact loading would be greater LOL

Thank you ToyRoverlander

Right things might be a bit quite from me for a bit as due to my back I'm winding up my buisiness (going to hopefully buy some of the engineering gear out tho so I can keep playing) plan is to have it all wound up by end of the month so eveything going to plan I'll start playing on this about then but till then I'm gona hack it evey chance (back willing) I get LOL

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Really glad it went so well for you (back excepted...). You probably had a weight advantage over the V8/35" Simex trucks, I guess. The trend for lots of power and big rubber bothers me a little because any tracks in NZ where public access is easy get torn to shreds, when there is usually no need for it. (Little rant!).

One question though - looking at your picture of the hoops you made for the top shock mounts, they don't seem to have any lateral bracing, yet the shocks do push at a slight angle. Do they flex? Or am I missing something.

Thanks for the report!

Don

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Bill you'll laugh at this but everything is done to a legal standard our system is Low Volume Vehicle Certification..... I would be in the most intense level of it known as "scratchbuilt" as I'm modifying more than 40% of the vehicle but the certifier I deal with wouldn't have a problem with this

Its hard to tell what the "feel" would be like on road as at the moment the standard front carries the bulk of the truck weight and the strop down the road at night when we got it going wasn't far lol but I think with the correct shock valving it wouldn't handle too bad I don't intend to lift it much if at all and a progressive up travel will pass the road manners test

To be honest Don I think its more down to the idiot behind the wheel.... bigger tyres with a good driver means they don't need wheel spin.... where as in my case the same ruts and dragging my diff's I was wheel spinning all the way to the top as I need every bit of momentum to carry me when the diffs drag so I did more damage, but Costa is a private park and the owner Goldy doesn't mind so all good if this was a DoC track or public domain we wouldn't have done it in this weather, I think its more of a case of education than anything else but unfortunatly the sport is more an individual thing which attracts people with bigger ego's and less need to listen so education isn't going to happen till we have lost alot of areas.... Look at the carp the NZ4WDA gets I get people in from time to time who have a beef over some policy or lack of action and they feel its a self interest thing, after I suggest that they should run for a position in the association so they can get there self interest served most tone it down of don't turn up again LOL I mightn't agree with everything they do but they are dong what they see as the best so I support them (lol hows that for a rant )

The shock hoops might move a bit but remember they are only for the damping on compression and rebound not to take weight so they are plenty strong enough and I'm mounted to pipes that are tied through the chassis and doubler plates on both sides

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