rovernut Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 SWMBO's Clutch pedal dropped to the floor today and doesn't come back up un-assisted. Don't know much about the system, but assume the problem is with the Master or Slave cylinder. I can't see any evidence of fluid loss and I worry that it may be the clutch itself (in that the piston has pushed too far out,no idea if this is even possible). The motor is a 52 plate Td4. Any information on what to look for would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I know nothing about TD4's but the symptoms you describe would seem to indicate that the push rod (slave cylinder) has come adrift and therefore there is no impitus from the clutch springs to push the slave cylinder back, the slave cylinder should have a retaining circlip, so it wont just pop out of its bore and jetison the clutch fluid but you may well have to drop the box in order to relocate the pushrod and relocate it in the slave cylinder bore and against the operating clutch lever. If you need to do this you might look at ways of wiring it to the lever arm to prevent it from happening again, -- a good practise with the R380 box -- and while the box is out slip in a new clutch plate and thrust pressure bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Seems the clutch system failed, it is a complete all in one hydraulic system. Clutch master, slave and the hose in between the two. Please do not open the clutch master to check the level, it will be correct, DONT BE TEMPTED LEAVE IT ALONE. But never lose site that it could be the clutch assembly itself, don't know the mileage or history, this is just suggestions here as we can not see the vehicle to do proper diagnostics, never forget that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Seems the clutch system failed, it is a complete all in one hydraulic system. Clutch master, slave and the hose in between the two. Please do not open the clutch master to check the level, it will be correct, DONT BE TEMPTED LEAVE IT ALONE. But never lose site that it could be the clutch assembly itself, don't know the mileage or history, this is just suggestions here as we can not see the vehicle to do proper diagnostics, never forget that too. Not on the TD4. It has a quick release coupling on the LH side of the engine. The slave is a cencentric slave inside the bellhousing. Change the master cylinder first as it's relatively quick, easy and inexpensive ~£75. If not then it'll be a complete new clutch. Get a Borg & Beck one from Island4x4,~ £75 for the clutch and ~£55 for the CCS. Labour is gonne be quite expensive tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 So what fixed it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovernut Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Not on the TD4. It has a quick release coupling on the LH side of the engine. The slave is a cencentric slave inside the bellhousing. Change the master cylinder first as it's relatively quick, easy and inexpensive ~£75. If not then it'll be a complete new clutch. Get a Borg & Beck one from Island4x4,~ £75 for the clutch and ~£55 for the CCS. Labour is gonne be quite expensive tho Replaced the Master cylinder today (quick connect is a bit of a chore when its been in for a while). Pedal came up and one push sent it straight down to the floor with a pool under the gearbox. Going to change the rest (clutch assembly complete) when I next have the time. It was worth a try, I only hope that it will be possible to recharge the new master with fluid when I next connect it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Replaced the Master cylinder today (quick connect is a bit of a chore when its been in for a while). Pedal came up and one push sent it straight down to the floor with a pool under the gearbox. Going to change the rest (clutch assembly complete) when I next have the time. It was worth a try, I only hope that it will be possible to recharge the new master with fluid when I next connect it in. Yeah you can fill them up with fluid and bleed as per normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovernut Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Yeah you can fill them up with fluid and bleed as per normal. Thanks for that, I assumed that it may be possible given the bleed nipple on the slave pipework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovernut Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Ok, it is a few weeks on and I have finally got the time to crack on with the clutch. I was going to leave the IRD in place and struggle with the hidden bolt but found that impossible. I have removed all four bolts holding IRD to gearbox, the cooling pipes, both front drive shafts, propshaft and the mounting brackets completely. Now I can only achieve 2mm of movement up and down but the IRD seems to be stuck solid. I don't know how much pressure I can get away with trying to lever it out because it is an ally casting and fairly fragile. The bearing housing (nose) and input shaft don't appear to move at all. Have I not undone something or are they normally hard to separate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EggNChips Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Ok, it is a few weeks on and I have finally got the time to crack on with the clutch. I was going to leave the IRD in place and struggle with the hidden bolt but found that impossible. I have removed all four bolts holding IRD to gearbox, the cooling pipes, both front drive shafts, propshaft and the mounting brackets completely. Now I can only achieve 2mm of movement up and down but the IRD seems to be stuck solid. I don't know how much pressure I can get away with trying to lever it out because it is an ally casting and fairly fragile. The bearing housing (nose) and input shaft don't appear to move at all. Have I not undone something or are they normally hard to separate. Been ages since I removed an IRD box, but I'm sure it's just the 4 bolts and cooling pipes. There may be a snap ring on the IRD input shaft??? Like on the CV joint. A decent sized lever should get it moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 There is a guide on the Valeo website, also an advisory about not damaging the gearbox seal when changing the slave cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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