rangie92 Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Hi all from Australia, about to start my MS1 install in my 92 Range Rover 3.9L and just wondering if i have everything required for the install including required mods to MS following are the specs/ components i have acquired for the install MS1 V3.0 with EDIS 8 mod & PWM mod (built by me) Wiring Harness for MS Edis * Module & Plug/wiring harness & new ford Coil Packs with plugs and bracket for coils Plug leads modified to suit new coil packs Trigger wheel & VR sensor with plug and shielded cable & Bracket Air Temp Sensor (GM Type) Coolant Temp Sensor ( orig Range Rover Type) Lambda Sensor 4 wire Heated Tee and Tube for MAP Sensor MSNS Extra code V 029v (popular as posted on these forums by Mr Fridge) Tuner Studio Full Version Mega Log Viewer Full Version TPS (original Range Rover Type) Lambda Bung Plug for orig ISC vavle Bosch PWM Valve anything i have forgotten please let me know i Have already Built the ecu and tested on the Stim (stim V2.2 not jim stim) all works as should but unsure about the FIDLE led, this LED is on all the time regardless of temperature or rpm now that i have add the PWM Mod ??? have i done this right? also what mods do i need to do for fan control output as i have seen all different ways that it can be done but would like to try and keep things as close to possible to the way all you guys have done it so makes it easier if there is a prob getting it running. the only thing i have done different to what i have seen on here is i have omitted the Rs232 chip and added DLP-TX/RX internal serial to USB adapter. Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheesy Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 You might need a relay for fuel pump etc Also either all the connectors and pins for injector plugs and temp plugs or solder and heat shrink to re use ones out of the old loom You probably want some split sleeve or other form of protection for the wiring as well as some way of passing it through the fire wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Main power relay Joiners for the edis wires... google solder connectors. ..fab ghings not cheap but brill...a shory glue filled heatdhrink tube with solder on the middle. ...use heat gun...heatshrink and glue grab wire outer cover ...but mire heat and solder then melts onto wires Proper job Waterproof box for ecu ! Harness tape / superglue... Heatshrink tubing various sizes Zippy ties Beer Vr shielded cable Tacho out on ecu ?? Ms1 msq to suit ? ....pm me email Bung for stepper hole when removed Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/926/category/9 These ...plus heatshrink ovrr yo finish. ..stagger joints....then you dont have a huge lump of joins !! Also use for injector wirrs jpinh etc can get diffetent sizes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangie92 Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 Thanks for replies, silky me forgot to put in OP I have sheilded cable for vr sensor, all new plugs for injectors and temp sensors. I have a background in electronics/electrical so all joins, splices etc will be soldered and wrapped in heat shrink, I have the harness tape on its way. Great idea Nigel regarding the waterproof box. Lots of zip ties already in use for temp harness restraints Tacho output on ecu?? Is this possible as my RR use the alternator fir the tacho feed? (Would be great if it is possible) Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 i Have already Built the ecu and tested on the Stim (stim V2.2 not jim stim) all works as should but unsure about the FIDLE led, this LED is on all the time regardless of temperature or rpm now that i have add the PWM Mod ??? have i done this right? That depends a bit on if the firmware is set up for PWM yet. As default, using "B&G on/off" mode, the FIDLE LED should come on/off with the coolant temperature threshold set in the firmware basic settings: You should see the indication along the bottom of the screen in megatune. If the LED doesn't correspond to this, check your settings and then modification to the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 These ...plus heatshrink ovrr yo finish. ..stagger joints....then you dont have a huge lump of joins !! Also use for injector wirrs jpinh etc can get diffetent sizes Any chance of running a speel chucker over that & re-arranging it into a sentence, Nige? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangie92 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 That depends a bit on if the firmware is set up for PWM yet. As default, using "B&G on/off" mode, the FIDLE LED should come on/off with the coolant temperature threshold set in the firmware basic settings: Thanks Mr Fridge, silly me did set the FIDLE temp threshold now works perfect. has anyone discovered a way to add a tacho output to suit alternator driven tacho's? The count down is on 1 week till the install starts Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangie92 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Any chance of running a speel chucker over that & re-arranging it into a sentence, Nige? What you couldn't understand what Nige said? i could understand it perfectly "These ...plus heatshrink over to finish. ..stagger joints....then you dont have a huge lump of joins !! Also use for injector wire joins etc can get diffetent sizes" i'm pretty good at read the good old fingers move faster than the brain typing John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 @ both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 has anyone discovered a way to add a tacho output to suit alternator driven tacho's? Yes, you connect it to the alternator, surely? 1st problem would be working out the gearing of the pulleys driving the alternator (the one the rev counter expects) and see if that number comes out to a ratio Megasquirt's tacho output can manage, from memory it can only do 1x, 2x, 4x and maybe /2 /4 etc. so if the alternator is running at 7.333:1 gearing you're a bit knackered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangie92 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Yes, you connect it to the alternator, surely? 1st problem would be working out the gearing of the pulleys driving the alternator (the one the rev counter expects) and see if that number comes out to a ratio Megasquirt's tacho output can manage, from memory it can only do 1x, 2x, 4x and maybe /2 /4 etc. so if the alternator is running at 7.333:1 gearing you're a bit knackered. oh well was worth a try lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangie92 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Can anyone tell me if the timing indicator (the metal bracket bit bolted to the engine block) should be at a right angle to the pulley? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangie92 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Oops the above is for a 1992 3.9l Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangie92 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Its ok I have found the answer it should be 90° to the block not like the following pic. MS install started this was discovered while trying to get TDC for trigger wheel fitting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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