minimaquinas

300 tdi boost pin

49 posts in this topic

Do you really need it? You can get more than enough fuel from the standard boost pin for most tuning just by rotating it.

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I would reccomend the one from Morgan hill. The timber trail ones are apparently a copy and I've read online some of them are a tight fit in the top of the pump. I'm impressed with mine, it gives more fuel as the boost increases but on a sharper angle than the standard. Just be careful not to drive in too higher gear as it will over fuel.

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He can be contacted easily by facebook and you can pay by PayPal. The pin tool about 8 days to come I think.

34zc76r.jpg

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That's nice - they pre-corrode the pins for you so they'll rust in place and seize to protect the engine from long term effects of over-fuelling...

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never quite understood thesepins?

mine goes like snot from a sneezing nose as it is with the standard pin, it smokes all through the range, more so before the boost and as boost kicks in it lessens to a "respectable" amount. what more do you need? the current one does its job very well if set correctly

it was turned up more, when i turned it down it went faster anyway.

:)

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if its a standard pin try rotating it 30° to the clockwise as a starting point.

making sure to mark where standard points to first though so you can get back if needed. however there are quite a few adjustments you can make as well as the boost pin. it all depends on where you want to add power. i cant remember exactly what does what because i set mine a long time ago, and then got it to pretty much exactly where i want it now i dont touch it :) theres plenty of info on the line though the cummins dodge boys love to play with them and its the same pump albeit a 6 port version.

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The idea of these pins is to get a wider range of boost fueling control than is possible from the stock pin. With the stock pin, you end up overfuelling at the low boost end when set up the best at full boost.

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so basically all it really is, is a "fuel saving" gimmick type thing, to stop the over fuelling down low? to be honest with the MPG and power mine is returning, i still cant see much benefit but each to their own.

i might understand it a little more if the pin had some sort of clever curve to it, but it just seems steeper if anything. thats what the smoke screw is for anyway is it not? to back off on the low boost excessive smoke?

all good fun eh :)

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I have deactivated the entire boost compensation thing; remove the star screw and fit a long m8 fine screw instead. Wind the screw in all the way in so the pin gets jammed in 'max fuel mode'. This means that now the fuel delivery only depends on throttle position and RPM, and turbo boost does not have any influence. This has improved the pickup enormously. Bear in mind that I have not touched the top end fuel delivery so max power is still as per standard. This way, there is virtually no smoke, just a puff when you floor it in 5th gear at 30 mph.

I ran it for 10 years this way.

Daan

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Hi crazy

Any details on rotating mine

Cheers

Basically a small pin runs against the side of the cone on the standard boost pin, the further that small pin can come out the more fuel you get on boost. By rotating the boost pin/diaphragm you can control how far that small pin can come out.

There is a full guide attached to this post http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76807&p=657258 but basically the deeper the cut out pointing towards the front of the pump/engine bay the more fuel. You don't want to go to the absolute max without either monitoring the exhaust gas temperatures or fitting an uprated intercooler.

The idea of these pins is to get a wider range of boost fueling control than is possible from the stock pin. With the stock pin, you end up overfuelling at the low boost end when set up the best at full boost.

So they just have a steeper slope? Interesting, I've seen quite a few posts on these and people seem to be selling them on increased power, not one mention of the different slope angle . Cheers Red :)

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The boost pin only reduces fuel delivery at low boost. On full boost, you wont improve fuel delivery or power.

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if its a standard pin try rotating it 30° to the clockwise as a starting point.

making sure to mark where standard points to first though so you can get back if needed.

Best to mark it in its current position, then pull it out and see where the slope is steepest. If you rotate 30 degrees randomly, you may end up turning the fuel down depending on where it was set initially.

Agree with the comments about marking starting points though - this also goes for number of turns on the off boost screw and the starwheel.

The PDF that Cwazy points to above is the best guide i found.

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I think the standard pin is stainless - mine were blemishless when I replaced the diaphragm on one and had to free the small in that engages on this big pin on the other.

What happens is that the big boost pin is pushed down towards the pump centre as the turbo pressure increases. A small horizontal pin in the pump that is pressed against the conical section of the big pin moves in and out in response to the movement of the main pin, riding the slope of the cone. This small pin modifies the response of the injection pump in addition to throttle position and rpm. The steeper the slope of the cone, the more fuel the pump can inject at high boost. The factory settings are quite mild, but by rotating the pin, which is machined with the cone off-centre, you change the slope profile to a greater or lesser value. These after market pins have one set slope angle, and it is steeper than the steepest slop position on the standard pin, but if the engine is throwing out thick black smoke on full throttle and boost, it means it is already unable to burn the full amount of fuel injected, so increasing the fuelling further is just wasting fuel for no performance benefit. I really can't see the point of these pins - they just mean that the vehicle is probably unroadworthy for producing excessive smoke and will fail soon because of the excessive heat and strain on the parts.

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As I tried to explain.... The stock pin at its most aggressive setting adds fuel with no boost. In other words the pin is partially out at the no boost position. This one does not. If you have the correct maximum fuel set at full boost, especially at elevated boost levels, the fuelling off boost is too high and you will get smoke off boost. With the wider range pin, you can run more or less smoke free off boost with optimal maximum fueling at peak boost above stock values.

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That's as I understood it from your previous post Red90, and it makes complete sense, however at least one of the sellers obviously doesn't understand themselves how it works if you go by their advertising material! Thanks for taking the time to clarify it.

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I understand that, Red - you can see the step on the standard pin near its base that allows the small pin to slide a bit laterally, while the aftermarket pin has a taper all the way to the outside diameter of the pin. However, if the engine is smoking off boost, then the timing is off - a small amount of extra fuel should just result in an rpm increase. It's only when huge amounts of extra fuel are injected that you should get smoke. Even if the timing is right, then tweaking the base line fuelling screw to compensate for turning the standard boost pin would suffice, stopping the off boost smoke but still giving increased on-boost fuel, enough to smoke heavily, so maximum torque with less waste than these replacement pins produce.

It is amazing how many people, though, will buy a slow lugger and try to cheaply turn it into something completely inappropriate without understanding they will turn their engine to slag in six months.

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This may all be true, but I believe that the centrifugal regulator does most of the delivery compensation, and the turbo compensation only momentarily while there is turbo lag. This itself creates more lag as you floor it. The problem is mainly when the engine needs to pull very hard off road (like bonnet deep water). you put your foot down, and nothing happens, because there is no turbo pressure. There won't be any more turbo pressure until there is more fuel being delivered and this is a circle you don't get out of.

So standard max fuel delivery, standard turbo boost (standard as in equal to disco auto), no EGR and removed turbo compensation has been the perfect setup for me.

When I had it open a while ago, the pistons looked brand new, not a bit of soot to be seen inside the engine.

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Hi,

I have a problem removing my Boost Pin from a 200tdi injection pump. Originally it was semi-seized, but I have freed it by working it up and down with WD40 sprayed under the diaphragm. Now It won't come totally out, I think the lateral pin is stuck part way out and the bottom ridge of the boost pin won't come past it?

Is there any way of giving the lateral pin a nudge without removing the end cap please? Trying to avoid removing all the throttle levers and springs.

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Hi,

I have a problem removing my Boost Pin from a 200tdi injection pump. Originally it was semi-seized, but I have freed it by working it up and down with WD40 sprayed under the diaphragm. Now It won't come totally out, I think the lateral pin is stuck part way out and the bottom ridge of the boost pin won't come past it?

Is there any way of giving the lateral pin a nudge without removing the end cap please? Trying to avoid removing all the throttle levers and springs.

I had exactly the same problem and unfortunately had to do just that - removed the throttle lever & spring and then the plug at the back of the pin's travel way.

I found that by putting the main pin all the way down, and then tapping the side pin all the way in, I was able to then lift the main pin which pushed the side pin back out again. By doing this a number of times with liberal application of WD-40 I was able to work the side pin back and forth enough to get it to just move that bit extra out of the way and then the main pin could come out.

Unfortunately it seems that I knackered an O-ring which seals on the side pin in the process, I assume by forcing the (presumed corroded) pin back and forth through it. My FIP now leaks out of the boost compensator breather port so I am going to swap the top off another pump to hopefully sort it.

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