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:D That thing is like 'Ultimate Wallfare', standard 4" bricks in front of a 4" concrete wall (might have re-bar?), leans back five degrees and has soil behind it nearly to the top and sandstone bed rock at the bottom. I don't think a D11 would push it back? The previous owners spent a small fortune on that and the garage. I guess it was done to get the work through planning? Because an underground garage is a mad thing to do otherwise?
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  • 1 month later...

I have my new Gwy Lewis HD trailing arms and they are quite substantial. I'm thinking of mounting my rear shock on the top of them about 6" from the back.

Advantage: obvious and many :o)

Disadvantage; cocking around, welding, getting geometry wrong and bending one.

My initial thing is finding some fairly butch U clamp thing to grab the radius arm.

If you have an opinion, chuck it below :D

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You talking about fastening the brackets for the dampers with U bolts? As soon as your radius arm catches something your geometry is out. If you weld some sort of stop then you may as well just weld the bracket to the arm.

If that's the sort of thing you want to persue, why don't you punt your shock mounts on the inside of the chassis upside down?

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  • 2 weeks later...

The inside of the chassis is kind of full of things. There is a lot of rear rad stuff going on. Interesting idea though :)

The rear bush would have a hard time and if I was speed racing it would have to move back. But I think I will get away with it on slow stuff?

If it's a clamp it needs to be very tough. At the moment I am thinking it needs to be billet ally.

Maybe a job for the winter.....

I'm currently making the sliding fairlead slide from the cab. That should save me hard cash in rope damage :D

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Nice set up :) The handy thing is I only want the shock there, the spring can stay as it is.

I suppose if I had been well ahead in thought I could have CNC stamped out a pair of those. But the idea wasn't there untill I saw how much stronger the new arms were.

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Did I put a link to my jiggly wiggly Syphon?

It was six quid and it works really well :)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UrgELwmyKTU

Work at the moment is about straightening the left sill and bracing it underneath with inch box. Also on the go is making the sliding fairlead operate from the cab. This wasn't feasible easily until the winch re-work last year. Now it is a lot easier to pull off. And will save our legs when the going is steep.

If I can I will do a vid of it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Full speed ahead on van repairs, and 'full speed' ain't what it used to be 20 years ago :D

The front panel in the box had to go as the 3/8" ply is resin covered and the wood had rotted. Same for the side at the front so the first 4 foot is now 2mm ally.

Luckily Darren at work helped me loads or I would have really struggled and failed as opposed to struggled and won :)

As usual this job has hours of knock-on work from wiring to plumbing.

image_zpsetuewtkf.jpeg

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It would, but needing to operate it under load hasn't really been an issue over all these years, as we pretty much know how a pull is going to pan out before we start. Also, I absolutely don't have any train weight left to play with for motors or rams, which is why it has taken so long to do the mod :)

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  • 3 months later...

I started work on the drivers side because the truck was backed into the garage. It had become time to go for the look of a normal tray back, which isn't that hard because underneath the panel work it's a tray back!

one change has been to cut out the two angle steel 'B' pillars and change them for 40 x 40 box. This is the ally tigĀ work on the left hand side

Ā 

IMG_1261.JPG

Edited by Team Idris
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