Badders Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Hi everyone I need some help... I have one of Nige's MS1 setups for a rover V8, but I want to us the MS to switch the fan on and off, reading on here I see that pin sp3 on the ECU D plug is the right output and i've set it up so that it pulls in a relay to power the fan, I have 12V to the coil on the switch and the ground goes back to sp3 pin on the ECU. But I get nothing... the fan certainly works, using a power probe I can make the fan run, but if i test the sp3 pin it's dead, no ground no connection to anything. i've tried setting the temp and looking at megatune I can see the output coming on and off, it's going green on the bottom of the screen at the set temp can anyone shed any light on what i'm going wrong? is there some setting in the ECU to make this active or something? taaa Stu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Can't help from experience but have you checked to see if the output goes to +12v in respect to ground? I'm not using MS to turn on my cooling fans so just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badders Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Can't help from experience but have you checked to see if the output goes to +12v in respect to ground? I'm not using MS to turn on my cooling fans so just a thought. Thanks but yes I tried that,if I stick my power probe onto sp3 and cycle the ignition, the on/off temp, etc I get nothing, I should see a red light for +12V or a green light if it goes to ground. Thanks for the advice though... It's gotta be summit simple lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Doesn't the ECU need to be built with the proper internal wiring to support this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badders Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Doesn't the ECU need to be built with the proper internal wiring to support this? I would imagine so... I'll have to ask Nige if this is built into it, might have a dig about for some drawings and have a look inside the ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Indeed, I would have thought Nige's units would have this, but very worth asking the Q. If you open it, you should be able to see the modification on the proto area of the board, just a diode, transistor and a resistor from memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badders Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Indeed, I would have thought Nige's units would have this, but very worth asking the Q. If you open it, you should be able to see the modification on the proto area of the board, just a diode, transistor and a resistor from memory. proto? from what I have seen online there are a lot of diodes, transistors and resistors lol... how about if I post a pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Post a pic. Nige's boards will only have mods if you ask for them as everyone's different and modding takes time hence money. SP1/2/3/4 are just "spare" pins on the D37 (same as the 4 CAN.. connections) that must be wired to something internally, bit like blank switches in your dashboard, fitting an electric window switch in the hole won't make your windows go up & down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 This is the proto area of the board: http://www.diyautotune.com/jwplayer_viral/images/mods/ms1pcbv3-relaycontrol/ms1pcbv3-relaycontrol005.jpg As above, post a pic, but if that area is empty it is time to break out the soldering iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badders Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 This is the proto area of the board: http://www.diyautotune.com/jwplayer_viral/images/mods/ms1pcbv3-relaycontrol/ms1pcbv3-relaycontrol005.jpg As above, post a pic, but if that area is empty it is time to break out the soldering iron. I've just sent Nige an e-mail, better he tells me than I strip the lot out for no reason... I will report back! I may need more technical assistance! like a drawing! Cheers for your help! Stu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badders Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 This is the proto area of the board: http://www.diyautotune.com/jwplayer_viral/images/mods/ms1pcbv3-relaycontrol/ms1pcbv3-relaycontrol005.jpg As above, post a pic, but if that area is empty it is time to break out the soldering iron. Ok, attached (I hope) is a pic of my board, I was waiting for Nige... but I fidget a lot and my mind goes off I have PWM and it works great, but looking at this I don't have anything else.. can you confirm? What do I need to do to get me a relay output onto pin sp3 in the D37 plug? Thanks for your help Stu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 That's not modded, so has no fan output. If you're not competent with a soldering iron, send it back to Nige and have it done properly rather than damage the board. The fan output circuit is pretty simple: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badders Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 That's not modded, so has no fan output. If you're not competent with a soldering iron, send it back to Nige and have it done properly rather than damage the board. The fan output circuit is pretty simple: Thanks for this.... I was looking around on the web and had come to the same conclusion.... Send back to Nige! Competence with a soldering iron is... OK... I think I first used one when I was about 6, I then used one at school, about 14... and these days maybe every month or so, but for electrics not electronics! very very different! I'm still sending it back to Nige, I know my limits! Thanks for your help everyone! I have the answer so I can sleep again now! Stu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Bump for 'Popular Modifications' forum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Random_badger Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Just a thought, would it be easier, simpler and possibly cheaper to find a thermostat housing with the switch boss? Seems like a lot of risk fiddlig witht the guts of MS and modding the board if your not 100% confident with the level of soldering. Having had to replace components during my build and then subsequently repairing the damage I caused, i wouldn't risk it agin unless it was absolutely critical. [or am I not getting into the spirit of megasquirt?] I thought about it and went down the thermostat housing route with my trialler as it allowed me to leave a manual overide in place without any risk of affecting the megasquirt. The fan switches are widely available, wiring is simple and risk is negligible. Just a thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badders Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Just a thought, would it be easier, simpler and possibly cheaper to find a thermostat housing with the switch boss? Seems like a lot of risk fiddlig witht the guts of MS and modding the board if your not 100% confident with the level of soldering. Having had to replace components during my build and then subsequently repairing the damage I caused, i wouldn't risk it agin unless it was absolutely critical. [or am I not getting into the spirit of megasquirt?] I thought about it and went down the thermostat housing route with my trialler as it allowed me to leave a manual overide in place without any risk of affecting the megasquirt. The fan switches are widely available, wiring is simple and risk is negligible. Just a thought... I've been thinking the same recently, I have a few extra factors in that the car is a 90 and the engine is the Thor 4.0 V8, My engine doesn't have a temp sensor for the gauge in the dash, so I've already got an in hose sender for that, I don't really want to bodge 2 together,the other factor is that with it being in a 90 they all seem to run hot, so I wanted the ability to set the on and off temps to what ever I like. All that being said, I haven't heard back from Nige yet, and I can't leave things so I've found on ebay a temp switch that cuts in at 87 deg and out at 82 deg which I should be able to install into my existing in line boss along with the sender, I just need to drill and tap an M16x1.5 hole... I can't decide if I need a switch on the dash.... it's a nice idea but am I going to switch it off... forget and cook the engine verses spraying some water over a water proofed engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 You could wire the switch so that it is an override, leaving the automagic function intact, regardless of what you have the switch doing in the cab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 My engine doesn't have a temp sensor for the gauge in the dash Maybe not the correct one, but it most certainly does! The Bosch temperature sensor is actually two temperature sensors in one. One is used for the dash, the other is used for the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badders Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Maybe not the correct one, but it most certainly does! The Bosch temperature sensor is actually two temperature sensors in one. One is used for the dash, the other is used for the ECU. Ok... yes, not the right one... But with Nige's MS kit you replace it with a different one anyway, it also has a temp sensor on each bank on the sides... no idea what they do but they are sooooo close the the exhausts I can't see them working much longer and for me they are in the wrong place to cut the fan in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Huh? Are you referring to the knock sensors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Yeah, they are knock sensors As for 'modding the guts of MS', well that is exactly what the proto area of the board is supposed to be for! I use MS for fan control, but have an override switch as well.... its not about stopping spraying water everywhere, it's about hitting a plunge pool and the fan blades being pulled into the radiator, mashing it and them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 On the 109 I have 2 additional outputs for dual-speed fan control and two spares that I can use for whatever (warning light, shift light, . I still wired the fan control through a DPDT switch allowing me to force the fans off (for wading) or on. The plus with putting control in the hands of the MS is you can tweak the fan temperatures without having to buy a different switch each time, you can increase or decrease the on/off gap, move the threshold between low & high speed modes much more freely than just having to pick from the 10 or so usable combinations available in thermoswitch form. And yes, DIY and tinkering is part of the MS ethos. The mods aren't hard but obviously if you're not used to doing electronics it's probably best not to learn on something like your car's brain, just as you wouldn't try to learn how to use a spanner by rebuilding a gearbox as your very 1st project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badders Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Huh? Are you referring to the knock sensors? lol they could be Knock sensors... I never paid too much attention, they are there, I haven't touched them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 You can just remove them, they serve no purpose in a MS install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Random_badger Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 I have to conceed that i may err on the side of caution when it comes to soldering and modding the internals, but now i may have to take up the challenge and go for it... Badders, if you go down the in-line thermoswitch route, I'm running an 81 degree thermostat with a 92 on 86 off switch, this seems to give a good balance. I know the engine is getting full coolant flow before the fans kick in, I boiled the thermostat in a pan with a sugar thermometer and it was fully open around 85 degrees. Not totally familiar with the THOR layout or which thermostat you have, but would it be possible with a switch that low you may never get full coolant flow in the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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