Bowie69 Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 You're right, no easy conversion simplest is dropping a 4.6 in there with an MS kit alongside 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 Lots of progress this weekend! Mainly making little brackets for things. The snorkel is mounted slightly more inbound to miss the emergency cut off switch and bonnet pin. If I'm finding it impedes forward vision too much I'll move it, but I think it'll be ok. Reservoir brackets for the front, in the same style as the snorkel brackets with a little fold at the edge to prevent the jubilee clip sliding off. Little PAS bracket. And the front all done! All ready to strip down for more paint! The rear reservoirs are able to be fixed to the roll cage using the supplied mounting hardware which is a jubilee clip and a rubber spacer. And lastly the new rear exhaust hanger. So that's all the little brackets made, we're finally getting there. A strip down for primer and paint and I can think about final assembly, but first I'll look at the body work and wheel arches along with wheel arch/engine bay dividers. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 With those fancy shocks you might be at risk of turning into a fast bloke! And when you do, your next problem will be the PAS fluid boiling. Bigger resirvoir and a cooler in the return line is the favorite solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedLineMike Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 we run a decent sized cooler on our steering system plus have gone to the extra length of fitting a temp sensor to the reservior to monitor the temperature of the fluid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Great progress and workmanship ? I am a little concerned about that exhaust mount though, is the engine mounted solid, or at least with poly bushes? Else I fear that mount will break or work loose. Not much give in it I would think. I like the details on the various brackets you make, really a proper job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 1 hour ago, Soren Frimodt said: Great progress and workmanship ? I am a little concerned about that exhaust mount though, is the engine mounted solid, or at least with poly bushes? Else I fear that mount will break or work loose. Not much give in it I would think. I like the details on the various brackets you make, really a proper job Can't you see the wood bush, Soren? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Once it has burned up and created a smokescreen to slow the competition, it creates the necessary space for it to all move around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 52 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Can't you see the wood bush, Soren? haha ?. yes I did see that, but what I meant was that it looks very thin, ie not much rubber, ie not much give ? but it could very well be an illusion, or just because I'm watching it on my phone ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 I suspect something like this will go in there: https://www.clampcouk.co.uk/exhaust-repair/exhaust-mountings/exhaust-mounting-bobbins/ecsm7-rnt2-255-330-m10-thread-renault-universal-exhaust-mounting-bobbin.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 Yes, I have a second reservoir for more fluid (not fitted), but last year I didn't have any problems with steering. But as you say Dave and Mike, I could be a bit quicker so may need to look at cooler for the steering. The engine and box has captive engine mounts that look like they use a radius arm bushes. The original exhaust was mounted like the rear hanger I've made and no, although it does look like a piece of wood, it's in fact a piece of rubber! Thanks Soren, it's always nice when you have to make a little bracket for something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 Today the racer came out of the garage for a wash ready for more priming. And I remade the exhaust heat shield over the rear section as the strut brace fouled the existing one. More paint next week and maybe some reassembly.........some brake lines........ Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 3 hours ago, steve200TDi said: The engine and box has captive engine mounts that look like they use a radius arm bushes. The original exhaust was mounted like the rear hanger I've made and no, although it does look like a piece of wood, it's in fact a piece of rubber! Thanks Soren, it's always nice when you have to make a little bracket for something Okay that satisfies my OCD thank you There won't be any vibration dampening in a bolt through metal, rubber and metal again, but it will allow for some movement. For a race car I'm sure its fine Yes making little brackets is very awarding but also extremely time-consuming at times! But I suppose that makes one appreciate the end result even more.. Oh BTW that thing would be awesome with a set of portals and a big old PTO Winch in the back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Question for you: Where did you get that heat-shield material stuff and how much is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 I'd like to know too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shielding-protection/nimbus-lite-heat-shield This perhaps ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 I've used some heat shield from a roll before. Not sure where we got it, but it was good stuff, and surprisingly easy to cut too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 OK stupid question time - why is the exhaust exiting that high anyway? Can it not go straight out the back or similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 The heat shield material is indeed what Les has linked too, albeit I had some off cuts/used bits from work! The exhaust was like that, so I've just reused it! It'll poke through the rear body work with ab exhaust finisher and look all nice Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 After some black paint was applied I was ready to start final assembly! I started at the rear and fitted the new heat shield and exhaust. Then added the fuel tank and strut brace. I even fitted the new tomcat springs too!! Then the front got steering and strut brace added and the front axle got some primer. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 Really looking good Steve, that strut-bracing is completely overkill but I like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Thanks Soren! I thought about not doing it, but then I wouldn't be happy if something bent or cracked, so I went for it! Right.....Steering in..........Brake pedel in...........brake lines fitted...........brakes bled.............front shocks in..........air intake and snorkel in...........front springs in too! Lots of progress this week, we're now getting to the little finishing bits like p clipping the brake pipes to the chassis, fitting the horn etc. I had ticked off a lot of things so I thought i'd cut a little bit more out of the bonnet before welding some bits back on and making it fit! It now closes! And you may notice a cardboard divider between engine and wheel arch, I'll be using a thin sheet of HDPE for this. And some good old cardboard aided engineering (CAD) More progress next week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 On 2017-6-15 at 8:42 PM, Soren Frimodt said: Really looking good Steve, that strut-bracing is completely overkill but I like it! you might be surprised to know its not overkill, with damper hoops as tall as those in a high speed off road environment fatigue can be a big issue, adding stiffeners such as crosses greatly reduces chance of failure, and the added stiffness of such beefy crosses makes the chassis as a whole so much stiffer, as the front around the engine bay is always more lacking in stiffness than the occupant cell and back end. Looking like its nearly finished.. So, Ill see you at KoW then Steve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 34 minutes ago, discomikey said: you might be surprised to know its not overkill, with damper hoops as tall as those in a high speed off road environment fatigue can be a big issue, adding stiffeners such as crosses greatly reduces chance of failure, and the added stiffness of such beefy crosses makes the chassis as a whole so much stiffer, as the front around the engine bay is always more lacking in stiffness than the occupant cell and back end. Looking like its nearly finished.. So, Ill see you at KoW then Steve? Yes of course, you are absolutely right. Forces are huge and oscillating, which will lead to fatigue. And "overkilling" on an item like this is not really something you can do. I was merely suggesting that I'm sure less would've probably done the job just as well with in the expected lifetime of the chassis amyways. Something like this would IMO probably be just fine: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 A mixture of good and bad news..... The good news is that I've had a productive few days getting the racer sorted so that I can take it to Slindon tomorrow. I've finished the snorkel, with a temporary drain pipe end to stop water coming in. Battery is clamped down, front shocks are installed and the bonnet is all boxed in. I think the bonnet doesn't look too bad, I know a fibreglass one would look good, but that will (maybe!) come down the line. And best of all its all made from scraps of ali and steel! I was on course to swap the tyres over and fit the rear shocks but.......... The bad news The engine fires up and idles fine, I drove it out of the garage to let it warm up fully and to swap the tyres over then came the problem. The engine seems to rev up ok to 1900rpm if you just blip the throttle, it's actually quite responsive! But trying to rev it over 2000rpm it doesn't want to know and just stays at 2000/2200rpm making a horrible noise. Not sure if its a running rich noise and it's getting bogged down with too much fuel or a lean noise and not getting enough air. I did remove the air filter, but there was no change. I guess I should have a look at the fault finding manual in the tech archive, but it always seems a right pain having to jab multi meter probes or paper clips in the plugs! Do say if there's an easier option! Any suggestions would be gratefully received. A few things I have noted which are different from when I started the shock build at the start of the year are as follows: - When you flick the ignition on the fuel pressure is produced, but disappears instantly after the relay stops - this didn't happen before, so I puzzled why now....could be fuel escaping past the pump or relief value (I doubt it's the relief valve) - Originally there was a tiny pipe going from the inlet manifold to the distributor bowl and another from the distributor bowl to the intake pipe. It's not going to the intake pipe now and I have blocked it off. Really I should cap and bung it all as some people say it's not a good idea! - The alternator is charging - I'm seeing 14 volts at the back of the alternator. So I wont be going to Slindon tomorrow, I'll be either sorting the Racer or maybe popping along to the trial at Capel held by the Southern Counties land Rover Club! Oh yes and no I wont be going to Megasquirt just yet as it was running fine last year! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 Sounds like you have a fuel system leak, pressure should come up and stay stable, and not fall away when you remove the key. Check all the lines for leaks... It is possible you have a leaky injector, if so the fuel pressure can fall making the rest of the cylinders run very badly. General diagnostics for Hotwire is jabbing stuff into plugs, if you don't like doing this then there is MS. I didn't fit MS because my old EFI wasn't working, I did it for reliability, tunability and full diagnostics. Appreciate it is quite a cost if you aren't familiar with that sort of thing. Your setup could be really basic, minimal wiring, no idle valve etc , would at least keep the cost down. The vacuum advance will make little difference to you, as you'll likely be on large throttle openings most of the time, and you're not interested in fuel economy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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