CwazyWabbit Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 I'm betting Ralph could find out in some of his parts books Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Definitely a stud so should in theory stay in the LT230. Spent enough time recently measuring and drawing LT230 related stuff Every one I've removed has been a bolt there. Bottom at the front through the gearbox casing into the transfer box cavity. Perhaps a clever soul has fitted a stud to yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 I'm slightly baffled here then The box I took out of my truck was a stud (1.4), the stripped down box in the workshop is a stud (1.6 IIRC) and my newly rebuilt 1.2 is a stud! Will have to have a crawl under a couple of LR next time I get parts from my local independent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 The parts diagram only shows one stud and nut but lists the quantity as two studs and two nuts ....... Edit: But on a Santana PS10 which actually has same part numbers as Land Rover it shows both studs!!! but the lower one looks to be holding the front output housing. Equivalent land rover page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Damn it! Ross hasn't totally lost his mind Read step 41 and look at the picture in the top right hand corner of that page. EDIT: forum software has made a mess of the picture but you can still make it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Like Mike says, roll the transmission jack under first, then slide the transfer box under next to it (bit of plywood helps here). Maneuvering the transfer box up onto the jack is a bit awkward, but much less than lifting it right up into place manually. I've never used the proper support bracket, but I would imagine it makes life a fair bit easier - failing that a selection of different sized bits of wood can be useful for getting everything lined up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 I find it easier to lie flat on my back and use knees and arms to fit a transfer box. It also helps to make some locating pins - 150mm high tensile M10 coarse thread bolts with the heads cut off and rounded. Locate the transfer box on the pins and slide it into place. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 Thanks guys, I wrote a thread "installing my Ashcroft ATB" describing how I got the sod back into the car, basically I bolted a 1/4" thick alloy plate onto my little trolley jack, strapped the box onto it and lifted it that way. Regarding Les Hansons comment yes, I used the three M10 x 1.5 - 150mm long studs and found that on the Disco you have to cut them back to about 1/4' longer than the R380 output shaft - no longer or the PTO section of the box hits the underside of the car, I thnk Les said that he slotted hois for a screwdriver, I ground flats on mine for an 8mm spanner. My box did not have studs - it only had bolts. The only stud was on the R380, top RH. My guess is that the studs would be a good idea to prevent long bolts being screwed into the box and impinging on the gears, if I ever have to take it out again I'll look at fitting studs, it sounds a good idea and would save sleepless nights wondering if the right length bolts had been installed. I was quoted AUD$1250.00 labour to remove, install the Ashcroft differential and reinstall, that price didn't include any parts required, new bearings, seals etc. I acquired a new 12 tonne hydraulic press complete with two boxed sets of mandrills, for AUD$245.00 a full set of Timken bearings and seals set me back AUD$350 (thanks to EJ for the bearings and seal numbers) and I used a bar of brass that I had in the man shed to turn and mill it to reproduce the special measuring tools needed to set the bearing preloads. It was only after I had installed it that I found that I could have purchased a transmission trolley jack from Supercheap Auto for AUD$450 had I purchased it I would still have been well ahead of the quoted price and I know that it's been installed correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowbosch Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 Thanks guys, I wrote a thread "installing my Ashcroft ATB" describing how I got the sod back into the car, basically I bolted a 1/4" thick alloy plate onto my little trolley jack, strapped the box onto it and lifted it that way. Regarding Les Hansons comment yes, I used the three M10 x 1.5 - 150mm long studs and found that on the Disco you have to cut them back to about 1/4' longer than the R380 output shaft - no longer or the PTO section of the box hits the underside of the car, I thnk Les said that he slotted hois for a screwdriver, I ground flats on mine for an 8mm spanner. My box did not have studs - it only had bolts. The only stud was on the R380, top RH. My guess is that the studs would be a good idea to prevent long bolts being screwed into the box and impinging on the gears, if I ever have to take it out again I'll look at fitting studs, it sounds a good idea and would save sleepless nights wondering if the right length bolts had been installed. I was quoted AUD$1250.00 labour to remove, install the Ashcroft differential and reinstall, that price didn't include any parts required, new bearings, seals etc. I acquired a new 12 tonne hydraulic press complete with two boxed sets of mandrills, for AUD$245.00 a full set of Timken bearings and seals set me back AUD$350 (thanks to EJ for the bearings and seal numbers) and I used a bar of brass that I had in the man shed to turn and mill it to reproduce the special measuring tools needed to set the bearing preloads. It was only after I had installed it that I found that I could have purchased a transmission trolley jack from Supercheap Auto for AUD$450 had I purchased it I would still have been well ahead of the quoted price and I know that it's been installed correctly Hi Boydie, I have a question, so how long are studs you put in the gearbox after you cut them a 1/4" short? I have the same issue, removing the lt230 and then I need to put it all aligned and the studs are a perfect idea...but in which lenght? best, ricardo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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