Jump to content

Brake bleeding problems


v8classic

Recommended Posts

Evening all

I have a 1984/85 range rover classic 4door non abs. Ive renewed the majority of brake pipes and stripped the calipers to renew dust seals and clean everything up. I've rebuilt everything back onto the car and I'm into trying to bleed the system now. I have filled the master cylinder left all the bleed nipples open to see if gravity took its course which it did to the front calipers but not the back. I took the pipes back off again and followed the fluid to see where I was getting it to and I managed to get it rights to the rear off side caliper but only just dribbling out the pipe. I have stripped the master cylinder and everything seemed fine. It's as though the master cylinder isn't pushing enough fluid out through the system. Does any one have any ideas what could be wrong or what else I could try? I don't want to go out and buy a new master cylinder if it isn't that. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Even with non-ARB you will have a pressure limiting valve to the rear brakes. Gravity on it's own won't get sufficient fluid through the ports inside the valve. If you don't have a partner to pump the brakes while you open and close the brake nipples just use a tube from the brake nipple into a bottle of brake fluid, seal the end of this hose in the bottle with a small bolt and with a razor cut a slit in the tube about 1/2" long as close to the closed end as possible, in any case well under the bottle fluid level, this slit acts like a non-return valve allowing you to pump the brakes to clear the air out of the system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent thanks for that. I will try that this weekend. I have had a friend pumping the pedal while I unlock and lock the bleed nipple but it still only dribbles through. How long should it usually take for the fluid to run smoothly? Cheers Will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gunson's Eezibleed is WELL worth the money, and trumps any hose in a jam jar method.

Connect it up, open the bleed nipples and watch the fluid come out -sometimes you may have to press the pedal once to get it moving, but after that a piece of cake, even with one pair of hands.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the bleed nipple is open you should get a full flow of brake fluid squirting out.

I would suspect that you have a blockage, and unless you fitted a new rear brake limiting valve that this will be the culprit. It can be dismantled for service but re-assembly is a bit tricky and new replacement parts are fabricated from unobtanium so I would advise that a new unit be obtained and fitted.

You can test it easily enough by disconnecting the single supply line to the rear brakes and see how much fluid is being discharged when your mate pushes the peddle, if it's full flow, it's not the valve, if it's just a trickle, replace it. If it is a full flow investigate for a blockage further down the line, you replaced the lines but what about the rear hoses and "T" piece ? Were these renewed or are they original ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Boydie you may have just hit the nail on the head with the limiting valve! I wasn't sure what that was. I did take the line that goes to the t piece off when my mate was pressing the peddle and I was only getting a dribble through then! I will take that off at the weekend and see if I can source a new one. Thanks for that. Bowie think I will invest in one of those. Saves me having to cook my mate lunch every time and keep him filled with tea!! Thanks chaps I will keep you posted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any kind of pressure bleeder,Pro,Gunsons or home made is the easiest way to bleed brake or clutch hydraulics, but dont use more than 10 or 12 psi to do it or you risk bursting the reservoir. The other good thing about pressure bleeding is that the piston seal does not get pushed back and forth over areas of the cylinder bore that are not normally used and may be rusty/damaged.

Keeping the fluid going in one direction with air pressure quickly flushes any air and dirt out of the system,far better than pumping pedals...

Forgot to say its best to do a dry run with just air in the bleeder res - before you end up with fluid everywhere,just make sure the cap connector seals.Once its set up you can just go around each bleed screw and turn them on like a tap.Very easy and very effective.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeppers, if you were only getting a "dribble" through it then the PLV has some crud inside blocking the tiny fluid ports so you are wise to replace it. Another bit of good advice it to flush out your new brake lines with clean brake fluid, I know it means using about a litre more brake fluid than you would normally expect to use bleeding brakes but you would be surprised just how much moisture and crud is inside "new" brake lines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice chaps. I had another go yesterday and still got nothing even with the new plv. I took the lines off the master cylinder and pressed the pedal and it's hardly pumping anything through there. Do I need to prime the master cylinder first? Shall I just have a go with a brake bleed kit? Or do I need to rebuild the master cylinder with a new seal kit? Cheers will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice chaps. I had another go yesterday and still got nothing even with the new plv. I took the lines off the master cylinder and pressed the pedal and it's hardly pumping anything through there. Do I need to prime the master cylinder first? Shall I just have a go with a brake bleed kit? Or do I need to rebuild the master cylinder with a new seal kit? Cheers will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Service the master cylinder, the supply orifice from the reservoir to the piston is quite small, it could be blocked with crud preventing brake fluid from flowing into the brake piston, fit new piston rubbers and seals while you are at it.

Sorry, I thought you had done this already and had supply at the master cylinder :blush:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No I had stripped it to check everything looked ok. I will change the seals as they are probably worn. It's as though it pushes a bit of fluid through then sucks it back up again. Haha. I will change the seals and see how that goes. Thanks once again guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Oh, look for score marks in the master cylinder bore, if it is scored you have three options, buy a new one, buy a reconditioned one (ideally with a stainless steel liner) or thirdly get a small honing tool and hone the scores out and fit oversized piston cups.

When I overhauled my Disco brakes I chose option 2 as the s/s liners last a lifetime and in my experience never score.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to keep you posted it's now back off the car and in bits. I have bought a service kit with new seals and washers to change all those then try again. I have read in my haynes tonight that the pressure switch in the master cylinder needs unscrewing when bleeding too that's something I didn't do so could that have also caused me these bleed problems?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Is the master cylinder this one? http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RTC3658P That's what I've got, and that little plastic spanner on the brake failure warning valve switch has to be removed, and the switch screwed in. That stops the valve from moving.

I'm only 99.999% sure on this because we've just moved and my manuals are still in a box somewhere!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening Gents it's sorted! Davo yes that is the one I have. Unfortunately the plastic part has snapped went to get a new one at my local place and they wanted £50 so I've capped it off for the time being as it's only a warning valve. The problem was the plv it had a blockage and wasn't sending any fluid through the rear port. I changed that and invested in a Gunson easibleed and hey presto it's sorted it. Nice solid pedal now. Thanks for all your help chaps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's nice when it works out, isn't it? I made my own pressure bleeder with one of those garden weed sprayers. I put in a low-pressure gauge to keep an eye on things and had a spare reservoir cap to attach the hose to. Worked perfectly - but I I still don't work on brakes unless I need to!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

It's is good once it works! Just annoying when it doesn't. Ah that's a good idea. The one I bought works off a tyre. It's got a tyre valve connector on to send the pressure through it. Quite a good idea actually. Now I have a nice solid pedal I'm leaving it we'll alone. Just to get it running properly now and then the last things to sort are the dreaded electrics! I can't find an auto electrician to come and sort it so looks like I'm going to have to learn how to use a multimeter. Thanks for all the help guys. Boydie I lobe that!! Sir Percy Verance. Think I will have that printed on the bottom of my reg plate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy