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Gearbox Fault. No drive!


RatCav

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In your photo above you are looking at the oil pump - 1043 618 057/A

To change it remove the bellhousing (12 bolts make note of their replacement location) the pump is directly behind - try not to disturb the main body of the box. Remove the 8 bolts that retain the pump housing to the bellhousing - tapping with a hammer may be called for to break the seal,

You will need to use the serial number of the box to obtain a new oil pump assembly. Fill it with some ATF before fitting to ensure that it has lubricant in it., dont fit it dry as it could end up stuffed again.

Ensure that the dowel is aligned to its hole in the intermediate plate, press the pump home in the rear of the bellhousing and refit the 8 retaining bolts to 10Nm - use a dab of blue grade Loctite on each.

Refit the bellhousing to the gearbox with the 12 bolts to 46Nm again, use a dab of the Loctite.

While you have the box out and on the bench I would also clean any accumulated gunk from the centrifugal governor at the rear of the box. The 9 bolts holding the extension housing (which contains the governor) to the gearbox are tightened to 23Nm, the mounting bracket bolts (4 off) if you have removed it are to 52Nm. The only replacement parts that you should require are "O" rings that I just selected from my metric "O" ring kit, the gasket I replaced with one I cut out of a sheet of .5mm gasket paper cutting the shape with scissors and the bolt holes with suitable wad punches.

Have fun and ensure that when you replace the assembled box you don't make the same mistake as the last "mechanic" and ensure that the TC and gearbox input shaft are correctly aligned.

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With the centrifugal governor just make sure that you disassemble it for cleaning on a clean surface (I use sheets of butcher's paper on my bench) and that you take careful note of the bits. if you have a phone camera take pics as you go so you can easily assemble it again correctly.

You may be amazed at how much junk gets caught in it and if it is gunked up your gear changes will be a lot crisper.

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Oh, with your alignment, a trick is to obtain some long bolts, about 150mm long cut the hex heads off, screw them into suitable locations on the engine block towards the top of the bellhousing and use them as guides as well as helping support the weight of box as you slide it onto the TC.

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The long bolts for alignment is a trick I learnt some time ago. I use threaded bar and usually put it in 4 holes.

I am hoping that is something as simple as the oil pump. Don't want to be going down the recon or new box route. Spent too much on this truck already to keep it on the road as it is.

Thank you for the advice already.

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Verdict is in.

The box is second hand. Which ever muppet installed it should be hung, drawn, and quartered. They didn't put the TC onto the gearbox properly and then slide the assembly onto the engine. They must of bolted the TC to the flex plate and then jammed on the gearbox drawing it in with the bolts. This has critically damaged the oil pump and its housing. Net result is everything has got chewed up sending bits of metal everywhere. TC has broken down inside and the poor oil and contamination has knackered the clutch plates of the box as well. Basically new TC and gearbox. Not impressed with whichever cockwomble is responsible.

Now to source replacements.

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Good luck with that. I found it easier to split the transfer box first. You will need a couple of trolley jacks. Unbolt the gearbox from the mount. Jack the box up slightly. This will allow access to the bottom two bolts that hold the transfer case onto the tail of the box. Get the second jack and support the transfer case with it. I tied mine to the jack with a ratchet strap. Unplug and unbolt the transfer case. Slide it off and move out the way. Now Unbolt the gearbox cross member from the chassis. Once removed lower the gearbox. Take car that the coil pack on the top back of the engine doesn't crush itself against the bulkhead. I moved things out of the way to make sure. Once you have lowered it enough I chocked the sump of the engine with some wooden blocks to make sure it stayed put. I then disconnected everything from the main gearbox, undid the bell housing to engine bolts. Then slide the gearbox away. The hardest part I found was removing the prop shafts. You have to really wriggle, swear, and struggle to get a spanner onto the nuts around the UJ's.

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Easy solution for that (uni joints) is to have your truck on axle stands positioned on the chassis so that the wheels are free to rotate giving very easy access to the uni joint bolts and nuts.

The bits of metal you speak of will be throughout the valve plate as the oil sump filter filters the oil before it passes through the pump, so if the pump failed the box is basically crapped.

You have my condolences for your loss :blink: talk to Ashcroft about an exchange reconned unit.

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The results of pump disintegration is exactly what the trans specialist said to me. I have sourced a box and TC now. Another second hand unit, but all the numbers match up and it has a 6 month warranty. I cannot afford a recon box (ordinarily I would) at the moment. If nothing else it will give me time to open this one up and recondition it myself.

Cheers for the tip on the props. Will leave those to last me thinks and do what you suggest. It is on ramps on the wheels at the moment giving me good clearance to everything.

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Well done you, One thing though did you think to flush out the oil cooler hoses and cooler ? If not do it before you run the engine !!! they come after the oil pan filter and they will hold swarf and other bits of your old oil pump that could conceivably damage your "new" box.

Disconnect both pipes, have one in an empty 5 litre container, pull the other up above the radiator height and connect it to a funnel and pour through at least 4 litres of ATF to give it a good flushing.

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That was the plan. I don't want to risk having to spend/do this again.

Quick question.There seems to be a breather pipe on the main box. It connects to a banjo bolt on the box and the hard plastic pipe disappeared up to the engine. Where does it terminate engine bay wise.

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Quick question.There seems to be a breather pipe on the main box. It connects to a banjo bolt on the box and the hard plastic pipe disappeared up to the engine. Where does it terminate engine bay wise.

Back of one of the rocker covers against the bulkhead isn't it? Well that is where they go on a Classic, RH one on my classic.

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Dodging gale force winds and horizontal rain, i managed to get it all back together today. Even had a couple of bolts left so I must of done something right. Those transfer boxes are heavy. Heavier than the main box. Had to lie under it and manually lift it into position. Anyways .. rapidly dwindling light and rain, and cold meant that all that is left to do is fill the Transfer box, and gearbox with oil. That is tomorrows job. Fingers crossed I got it right.

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As it's a S/H box I think it would be prudent to change the auto box filter and ATF after about 600 miles - just so you can see if there is still any debris in the system from your oil pump failure and from the S/H box itself. And well done you :i-m_so_happy:

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