RatCav Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 Recently recovered from explosive gearbox and torque converter syndrome. All fitted and now pulls like a train. So so smooth and responsive. However .... (here comes the noob question) ... I am now suffering from a vibration that starts around 70mph and get worse as the speed picks up. It is definitly speed related not engine revs related (thank christ as that rules out the new box and torque converter I have just replaced). I did however have a brain melt moment when fitting the front propshaft. I think I have fitted it the wrong way round. I think I put the sliding yoke (grease nipple) end closest to the front diff. I am assuming this is wrong looking at some posts. Also the manual says that you should mark the propshaft before removing it. Is this to make sure the prop is fitted the right way round, or do you have to align it radially as well? Apologies for the stupidness. RatCav P.S. I will get to know these trucks at some point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 7, 2015 Share Posted December 7, 2015 Yeah, normally slip joint at transfer box end. As for aligning with diff flange.... I have never bothered, it's more important that the UJs are in phase, if you didn't take the two halves of the shaft apart, you won't have this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatCav Posted December 7, 2015 Author Share Posted December 7, 2015 It was a brand new complete shaft fitted by the dealership as the old one was vibrating :/ All I did was unbolt it from the transfer box and front diff. Looks like a job for the weekend .. thank you for your time. Does beg the question why it needs to bet that way round though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Easy way to remove and refit either prop shaft is to jack up the body (with axle stands under) and have the front or rear axle dropped fully and off the ground, that way the propshaft isn't fully compressed and secondly you can turn the axle flange to get the four bolts to align Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatCav Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 Keep forgetting live front axle .. never had one of those before. Also having offset rear diff makes things easier in case I need to remove the rear one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 You mean a beam axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatCav Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Live axle is a type of beam axle? I thought a live axle was a beam axle that can provide drive, and a dead axle is a beam axle that doesn't provide drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 You are probably correct, I've never heard of those terms before. In the parlance I've always known a beam axle always had drive - I've never been wrong but I have often been mistaken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatCav Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 Ok .. flipped the propshaft so the sliding yoke is transfer box end and took it for a blast. No more vibration. How weird is that. You would of thought being balanced it wouldn't matter. Anyway problem solved. Also I can thoroughly recommend the propshaft bolt removal tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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